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Old 01-19-2013, 10:51 AM   #4333
coast range rider
Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Palomar Mountain
Oddometer: 182
Originally Posted by Dr. Zaius View Post
If you we're in my shoes and looking to make a purchase in the next 60-90 days...would you go for a discounted 2011-2012 model or pop on the 2013 with the twin spark and skyhook options?
If you were in my shoes, you would know that the low rpm running issues were the reason I never even bothered to test drive one.

Skyhook makes more sense to me to firm up damping as soon as needed verses a handlebar switch only. So I'd say for your shoes, either get discounted '11-'12 base model (but don't!) or preferably, if your accountant permits it, splurge on the '13 Skyhook version. Maybe the '13 will save you the cost and effort of having to rework the rear shock for higher loads. Seals that are aging since time of manufacture should last up to a couple years longer on the '13. By the time you've spent thousands on replacement belts and valve adjustment labor, the little bit extra paid upfront for the '13 won't be so significant. Fianlly, do you really want to spend $20k on a bike with 2 year old tires?

The last resort option to consider, if you must buy the bargain now, just trade up to '13 when more affordable used ones hit the market. This isn't the most sensible way to purchase though. It's as bad as worrying about resale value when buying a new bike...
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