Originally Posted by Aurelius
Neither of these shops are pushing the SRAM 1x11 setup. Most people these days seem to be running a 2x10. Local racers seem to favor a 1x10. My 3x10 always suffered from cross-chaining, but never as badly as it does when climbing very steep hills. Many times I found myself on the trail fiddling with the barrel adjusters to try and fix it, but it never goes away completely, and the fix is at best a temporary one. Another problem with my Superfly 100 is that it simply refuses to switch into the smallest gear in back when I'm out there riding it. It will when the bike is up on a stand, but not when it's being ridden. One of the techs tells me that it has to do with how the cable is routed, which causes it to go slack when the rear suspension is compressed. I'll be glad to see all this, and other more minor problems go away once the 1x11 system is installed.
My GF's first road bike has a Shimano triple on it. No amount of fiddling will get it to run clean and quiet. That bike has been relegated to the trainer, anyway. Her MTB had a SRAM triple on it. I pulled the big ring and installed a bash guard. Triple or not, that bike always shifts clean and runs quiet. I can remember riding a Specialized Roubaix with SRAM Rival, for the first time. It was a revelation, compared to all my Shimano stuff. I no longer own anything with Shimano. The aforementioned road bike and her tri bike are the only bikes she has with Shimano. I can't justify switching them over, for no more than they get ridden.
To get the rear derailluer to shift to the smallest cog, it would need to be slack/no tension. Maybe, he meant the cable gets pulled, when the suspension compresses. Also, when a drivetrain is loaded, it'll many times react differently than on the stand. My first road bike was that way (Shimano-go figure). Hopefully, this will all work out for you.