Quote: Somebody - Remember planktonnnn that the resistence of the charging light is what juices up the alternator to produce a charge, so cutting out or bypassing that charging light will not help at all......?
Not sure what's happening here with posts & re-edit/nuking so unclear who said what when, but in relation to the above, I've looped the bulb feed & bulb return lines into one-another from the start & it's been fine except when I've lost continuity (eg bad bullet connector), but something somewhere has now stopped the charging circuit running freely i.e. when the bike is running there is only about 12.25v measurable at the battery, which leads me to believe something's cockeyed and it's running the ignition & spark off the battery without putting anything back in, as it usually shows 13.5 or more when running. I'm going to have to dig thru/ough it sequentially to find the problem, starting with the bits that are easiest to reach, tho/ough I may find the basis for the issue resides under the front cover. Whatever happens undoubtedly the problem will be in the last place I look...
But then my much hated maternal unit used to say with much sincerity 'Why is it you always find what you're looking for in the last place you look?' - seemingly ignorant of the simplism that one wouldn't carry on looking?
...using the wrong spanner since 1964... ...Electronically begging for a rebuild via gofundme.com/fs1uas...