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Old 02-08-2013, 10:25 AM   #3188
LC Garage
On Any Sunday
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Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Columbia County
Oddometer: 771
Originally Posted by LC Garage View Post

Joz, good stuff! Thanks to you and the others for chiming in, this is just the kind of help I was hoping for.

1. Checking voltage, this unit is in storage, will go down this weekend and check the voltage. I see one connector going into the furnace, can I just separate the connector and check the voltage at that point?

2a thru 2d. We have propane, I ran the stove top to verify. I have manipulated the valve at the furnace from an inward position to an outward position (rotated counterclockwise) and am ASS-uming there is propane present. there is no evidence (sight or sound) of the igniter trying to light.

3. Will be taking a shop vac down this weekend and cleaning out all hoses and orifices.

Will do the due dilligence but believe the furace will be coming out, at this point if furnace is removed, I'll just plan on installing a new sail switch and limit switch, no point going that far and then scrimping on a couple of key and relatively inexpensive parts.

Is there a good source (online) to buy the switches?

Thanks again to all of you who weighed in on this, I will update with results as this progresses.
Voltage at furnace connector with engine off and not plugged into shore power is 10 volts, plugged into shore power it is 12 volts. Since almost any testing or diagnosis requires pulling the furnace, I've ordered a sail switch (odds are that is the problem) as well as a limit switch, when those arrive will pull furnace, check and replace switches, clean everything and re-install. Hopefully the next report will be with a working furnace. Thanks again for the tips and help!
What would John Penton do?
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