I have a fairly early bike, and my rear cylinder's cam markings were very, very faint. Finding TDC on that jug was challenging. What really helped was having the factory engine blocking bolt. If you have the factory part (rather than making your own), you know when you are in TDC because the bolt will fully seat into the block. If you are not perfectly on TDC, the bolt sticks out a little. The HOW has good guides on valve checks and pulling the cam bridges. Just remember that on the rear jug, look for the "X" marks that are on the lobe side of the cam gear (facing you as you turn the motor backwards). On the front, look for circle marks (on the outside facing you as you turn the motor). The lobes angle in toward the center of the jug on the rear on TDC, and lobes angle out away from the center of the jug on the front on TDC.
Do one jug at a time. Get close to TDC and then try to get your blocking bolt in place. If it won't go all the way, you are a little off. Only pull the cam bridges when you are on TDC. They will break otherwise. You need some special tools to get to some of the head nuts. The two on the outside of the cylinder are actually up under the top of the head, so you need some kind of an extension to get to them. KTM makes a special tool ($55 or so), but there are other ways to do it.
The real guide to oil starvation on the motor will be the cam bridges where the cam journals run. If they look like this:
then you have a problem. The rest of the engine may be fine, but there's no real way to fix that on the heads. the solution would be rebuilding the upper end with new head, IMHO.
Best of luck!