03-23-2013, 03:39 AM
Living on a DR
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: New Delhi - new 'home' for post RTW
Back on the trail with the sun beating down and you can't even tell that it just rained so hard.
Oops. I was riding through this sandy riverbed and didn't see that wooden spike sticking out of the ground. It caught my tool tube and down we went. A few guys came running out of the woods and helped me lift sanDRina back up with the rubber side down.
Evidence of the recent rains. Where the puddles were huge, a side track was cut into the brush.
Riding lots of corrugations and I noticed a bolt for my pannier frame had rattled out.
I found a replacement M6 bolt from my bag-o-bolts, put a dab of Loctite thread-locker and off we go.
A long and messy mud puddle with an even messier detour. I went a bit back and made my own entry into the detour.
Camping in a cheap residencial in Montepuez, a large town on the other end of the forest track. The beds were creaky and the mattress didn't look inviting and there was no mosquito net, so best to setup my tent, which is a home I know.
At least sanDRina had a nice place to spend the night in Montepuez. The next day's ride was short and easy, heading down to the coast.
A big baobab tree just across Russel's Place in Pemba with the clear waters of the Indian Ocean.
Russel's is a backpackers and is the cheapest place to stay near the ocean. I took a bed in this elevated hut for 500 Meticais ($16.85). I was slowly adjusting to the higher prices in Mozambique compared to neighboring East Africa.
I met another biker who was also staying at the same place and we both headed out for some fresh seafood. We bought this squid, which was caught just a few hours ago, for 250 Meticais ($8.43) and...
...this lady here cut and grilled it up for us for another 30 Meticais ($1). She also had a supply of beers and chapatis to go with it. The breeze was blowing strong and the atmosphere was fantastic.
The receding tide at Pemba's beautiful coast.
Enjoying a walk through the water and making my connection with the Indian Ocean. This was the first time sanDRina's been at sea-level since entering Africa at Alexandria.
Shopping for seafood for dinner the next night.
We picked up this pile of octupii for only 25 Meticais ($0.84).
He had this yellow-fin tuna going for around $30 and I thought about how much 'value' and price is added to food as it moves from where it is caught or harvested to where it is consumed. Here, we were consuming it where it was caught. Nothing fresher than that.
This is Rob, the biker I met at the backpackers. He's from South Africa but was living in Spain and was riding his Honda Africa Twin from Barcelona to Durban. Rob's a professional chef and was working at some of the top-rated restaurants in the world, such as El Buli, where plates go for around 250 Euros. So, we put our cooking gear together and made an...