Originally Posted by Randy
Care to share the details, parts list, etc...
Sure! 1 inch aluminum round stock, cut to 20 inch's and 1 1/2 thick aluminum plate, cut to fit the front down tubes. (liberated from the scrap pile @ work.
They had some nicks and dings, just cut around the really bad stuff) I got 4 cheap skate board wheels off of Amazon, 55mm wide (75mm wide with a offset would have been better) 6 S.S. 3/8 bolts course thread. 2 are 3/4 inch long (used to attach the plate to the mounts for a chin spoiler) 2 are 2 inch's long, used to attach the round stock to the plate. Last 2 are allan head bolts, 2 inch's long. 12 S.S. 3/8 flat washers and 2 S.S. 3/8's nuts.
Cut the 1/2 thick plate to 4 3/8 wide and 3 1/2 inch's long. ( it stops just below the regulator) Find center on the width of the plate and scribe a center line down the lenght. (machinist dye helps here. Coat the plate with it and your scribe marks will show up better) Come up from the bottom of the plate about 3/4 of a inch and scribe a line along the width. Come down from the top of the plate about 3/4 of an inch and scribe a line along the width. (For the lines on the width I said about 3/4 inch. You can go more or less to get the look you want)
Now find the center to center measurement on the bolt holes for the chin spoiler. (61 mm if I remember right) Make 2 center punch marks 30.5 mm on both sides of your center line. (once again, I think the center to center of the mounting holes were 61mm, 61/2=30.5. Measure yours to be SURE this is right) Do the same for your line across the top.
Now drill 4 holes at your center punch marks. I used a 1/8 inch bit for a pilot hole, then the 3/8 bit, and reamed the holes with a 3/8 hand reamer to insure an exact fit. I was using my drillpress. You can use a handdrill, just go slow.
For the round stock, find the center on the length and mark. Find the center on the width and mark. Now measure out from your center line on length 1/2 the distance of your mounting bolt distance (30.5mm in my case) and center punch on the scribe line for center width. (this insures the hole you drill will be dead center of the width of your round stock.) Drill the 2 holes with a 3/8 bit.
Now find center on both ends of the round stock. Mark and punch. using a 5/16 bit drill holes in both ends of the round stock 2 1/2 inch's deep.Using a 3/8 16 tap, tap out both holes (same size as the allan head bolts). GO SLOW AND USE PLENTY OF OIL. Back the tap in and out, going about a 1/4 turn each time. You do not want to break the tap off in the hole.
Tap the hole a full
2 inch's in. (you drilled it 2 1/2 inch's deep. The extra 1/2 is for the tip of the tap)
Now it is time for the skate board wheels. Using a 1 inch drill bit, drill out the backside of the skateboard wheels. (if you are using a hand drill, a wood counter boring bit might work) Do not go through the center "web" on the wheel. This will allow the backside of the wheel to fit over the end of the round stock, lending support to the bolt in case of a slide.
Now paint, polish, or what ever, then assemble using the flat washer's. If you did everything right, it should fit.
Skateboard wheels are rated in hardness. The harder they are, the more likely they are to slide. That is what you want. You want it to slide, not grip and flip.
I used 55mm width. A 75mm width with a off-set center would be better. I'm going to get that type.
You can tig weld the bar to the plate and do away with those bolts. I did not have access to a big enough tig welder. If I did, that is what I would have done.
I do not know how well this set-up will work on a heavy pig like our Sportster's. I hope to never find out.
I did it to protect my Anvil exhaust. They are not made any more. That is sad as they work very well. Better than a Torque Hammer, and the Torque Hammer is a very good
I have used a set-up like this on my 'tard. It worked very well on it.