11-30-2013, 04:25 PM
Joined: Sep 2011
Location: Somewhere in Latin America
30. Back To The Blue Stuff, Puerto Escondido
Itís been quite a while since I have been at sea level and dipped my toes in mother natures bathtub. As I headed south from DF and into Oaxaca the weather got considerably warmer with the drop in elevation. Iím ready for a bigger drop though, maybe even a sunburn. The bike is pointed due south for the surf town of Puerto Escondido.
Out of Oaxaca itís about a 5hr drive to Puerto, again weaving in and out of the sierra mountains and itís surrounding plains.
Some of the riding reminded me of eastern Washington in the fall.
After getting into Puerto I found Tower Bridge Hostel and shacked up. Itís a cool place with a surf bum feel and a splash of drugs and alcoholism.
I found Helen and Tucan shortly after and it didnít take long before we were getting the night started with a round of ĎWheel of Fortuneí with the rest of the hostel. Itís the fast lane to drunkenness and may or may not be rigged to land on body-shot. Some options are more desirable than others, but all options are entertaining.
The next day we checked out what the town had to offer. There is a large market in a large farm stable looking thing nearby. This is where all the locals shop and where you can buy whatever type of food you may want.
Here you can find this lady slanging some pretty bomb tortas (mexican sandwich) for ~$1 each.
If you head further into town you find the main tourist strip. Here there are restaurants, bars, and surf gear. All the typical main drag stuff.
In addition to the typical tourist drag shops, there are two locations that stand out far among the rest in my opinion.
One is Black Velvet Fish Taco & Beer. Rad ambiance heavily leaning to the high-end gnar scene with tattooed owners, dark leather and stone furniture and over the fucking top food and presentation. If you are in mexico and have anything to say about fish tacos anywhere else, you must wait until you have tried these to solidify your opinion. We have taken freshly caught dorado and swordfish there as well to be coooked up and they are definitely multitalented when it comes to food.
The other place that stands out among the rest is this place, Palma Negra.
They opened a week ago and sell great homemade icecream and crepes. Their spin on it is ice cream with a more adult or nighttime feel (hence the name Palma Negra because at nighttime in the sunset all the palms are silhouetted and appear black), such as flavors with rum or tequila in them. But the flavors are very creatively concocted and meticulously balanced. They seem to be constantly creating new flavors and testing out ideas.
To round the place out the guys that run it are super chill and itís a fun place to hang out in the evening, shoot the shit, watch the nightlife, and knock back the latest flavor experiment. Canít say enough about this place, wish you guys all the best with your new shop.
The main attractions in Puerto Escondido, aside from the ice cream and killer fish tacos, is the beach and the surf.
Alena (from Germany) and I took the bike to meet up with some other people at the beach. There are several beaches in the area, this is the most popular one for swimming.
We shot the shit, knocked some drinks back, and lounged the day away.
If you buy and drink a coconut, theyíll scoop out the meat after you are done and chuck salt, chili, and lime in it.
We lounged until the sun started to go down.
Local families where there with their kids. This guy was a surfer and his baby seemed to be getting started in the water early. There arenít any waves in this beach so itís pretty calm. Trips out into the water on the board where enjoyed by both. Talk about growing up in the water.
Another dad was helping his daughter practice standing up on a paddle board. Every now and then a small wave would come in and she would ride it to the shore.
Sunset here is pretty good.
Russell took the sunset for a good photo op ontop of a rock way out from shore. Either that or heís god.
Russel and I heard there is a lake in the area that a couple times a year for a few days has a bioluminescent plankton bloom and they fill the entire lake. There are tours that take you out into the middle of the 6 kilometer long lake to see it for $25. We decided it would be more fun and a good workout to go it ourselves and swim out there instead. I have seen phosphorescence before but nothing on a scale like this.
Camera couldnít pick it up well but hereís a photo I pulled from the internet.
We swam over a quarter mile out into the lagoon to get away from any lights that were on the shore. Think Avatar but in water. Whenever the plankton are agitated or disturbed they glow blue. So as you swim along in the pitch dark lagoon every part of your body that disturbs the water glows blue and shimmers. Itís an amazing phenomenon and is incredible to watch when it is on a scale like this, where the entire lagoon is filled with these plankton. Under a clear night sky with no moon it was incredibly dark so the luminescence was bright like a glow stick as you swam through. You could lift your hand out of the water and watch the lit up water shimmer and flicker as it rolled down your arm and dripped back into the dark undesturbed water of the lagoon. After swimming and treading water for an hour or so we turned back to head to shore. Iím so glad we did it this way instead of paying to go on a boat. Amazing experience and a highlight activity so far in Mexico.
Snapped this with a waterproof camera.
Puerto is a fun place to kick it and the people here at the hostel as well as all the locals are great. Tonight there is a big party on the beach for all of Puerto, not sure what the occasion is but they are bringing in a band etc. Should be a good time.