1. Do DR front wheel fits KLX forks without modifications?
I doubt that, I bought the whole front end including the wheel
2. If not - do I need complete front from KLX, with wheel and everything?
I think so
3. Those KLX forks - they are not adjustable kind, are they? Are they cartridge forks?
They are not adjustable; i dont know what cartridge forks are. They are upside down though. They behave a lot better than the originals on my 750
4. How different is rake etc. of front forks with KLX set? Is bike geometry changing a lot?
I dont know the numbers. But from my experience, the bike behaves much better. I had to play a little with rear preload, as it seems KLX springs are softer. I am planning to fix this in the near future by adding a spacer. However, they have never bottomed and there is no excessive dive while braking (I use 7.5W oil instead of 5W). Having said that, I have replaced the front brake disc with an EBC SM (320mm) and braking is awesome even with the original crappy 750 caliper, which was made to fit with a small spacer.
5. Do tripple tree fits DR header without mods? If not - what need to be done? E.g. bearings, axle etc. etc.?
Yes it does, at least on the 750. I used the 750 bearings. There is a little difference on the steering stem length, but there is enough thread to use two counter lock nuts. The thread is same as 750 thread. On my KLX steering stem, the top thread where the nut above the top yoke bolts in, was damaged and I didnt use it. The top yoke was held in place by the upper forks alone, whish is not that much of an issue.
6. Does it affect max. steering angle, e.g. turning radius?
I have filled off the steering locks on the 750 frame and havent yet soldered new ones; the bottom KLX yoke has a different steering lock pattern. I didnt want to touch the klx yoke as I knew I would transfer the forks to the 800. The steering angle is defined by the frame, so it is unchanged. The klx fork to fork distance is slightly bigger than the original on the 750, but it creates no problem whatsoever. There is enough space in the fairing to accomodate the wider distance. Turning radius is unaffected.
Unfortunately, I am away from the bike as we speak, but will start looking into the 800 conversion in about 2-3 weeks time. I will take pics and will post them here. I will also measure the offset and anything else anybody would like to know. I havent ridden the bike for about 2 years, so things are slightly foggy in my mind. What i do remember WELL though, is that:
a) There was no machining required for the conversion apart from filling off the steering locks on the 750 frame
b) The KLX front end is solid as a rock compared to the 750, maybe the difference from the 800 is not as prominent.
c) The bike after the conversion felt a lot lighter, due to lighter forks as well as yokes. I couldnt't believe the weight of the stock steel yokes, which is also placed high.
All in all, the conversion is easy and with very positive effect. Dont be scared by the lack of adjustability of the KLX USD's, there is nothing a competent suspension mechanic cant address. Whether the 800 conversion is equally easy will be defined by the inner diameter of the top head bearing on the 800. I know that the outside diameter is larger than in the 750. Bottom bearings should be identical, as well as the steering stems. Maybe someone else can chime in and fill the gaps here!
mousitsas screwed with this post 10-24-2008 at 08:54 AM