> You may have not fried anything.
:-/) that would be nice, but something changed after i hooked up the car battery.
(i had read a warning about it, but by that time i was "desperate". and last night i searched and searched and couldn't find the article that warned about it -- all i could find was warnings not to have the car running while you did it.)
this is a bit like reading medical books - when you think you've got every disease you read about. ;-)
now i'm concerned that the engine - the valvetrain - is seized. (then i'll have to buy those nice trick light valvetrain parts.) ;-)
> The loud clacking sound you heard was probably the starter
> relay chattering because there was not enough current to
> activate the bendix.
it's definitely the solenoid clacking (the "cricket sound", it was called in one article.) with my left ear around the right side of the tank and my right ear around the starter, that clacking is coming from the starter solenoid.
(does that mean the starter relay is ok? - that current is getting to the starter solenoid?)
> Yeah, there should have been plenty of current with the
> jump-start, but you did mention moving the ground cable.
12.59 V - with my new cheapo multimeter. that scared me, because all the time i'd been thinking the battery was the problem.
although i _don't_ know what happens to that voltage when i hit the starter button. i should try that. maybe.
moving the ground cable:
well, the bike's always started easily (in the few weeks i've had it). when it didn't start last week, it seemed like the battery, i charged the battery for about 24 hours, put it back in and it started and on the Saturday we went for a ride - about 40 miles. didn't ride it Sunday, and then Monday it wouldn't start. that's when i took off the ground cable to see what was underneath the lug ... ... and found powder-coating. (it was bolted to the right side subframe mounting point.) the only point at which it could've been making contact was in the bolt hole ... and i found that the powdercoating didn't come off with a bit of sanding, so i put the cable back on to the gearbox/speedo drive bolt ... and found that the cable was too short ... and if i turned the battery around so that the terminals were on the right side, then the + cable from the starter was too short. so i used a nice thick new cable i had, had some big solid lugs soldered on to it on Friday.
> I'm not so sure the problem lies in your starter -- the symptoms
> may point to a current drain that is depleting the battery, or
> perhaps your battery merely will not hold a charge.
the battery's staying at 12.59 V. i could check it when i get home - it's probably a bit less after all that.. trying to start.
> As in all repairs, do the easy stuff first. Remove the battery
> and have it load-tested.
isn't it any good to check the voltage while pressing the starter button?
> If you're looking at making electrical repairs/replacements (i.e.
> brushes for the alternator, new rotor, blah blah blah...), check out
-- the owner is very helpful with
> troubleshooting if you don't have a local guru.
i've got solid mounts coming from thunderchild. i hope it doesn't turn out i need a new alternator.