Alas, no lift. Instead, I have a small piece of leftover carpet that I put down on the garage floor to lie on when I have to get under the bike.
There are so many oil drips on my garage floor, incidentally, that it looks like a Jackson Pollock painting.
Anyway, from what I've read elsewhere, the procedure, with the bike on the centerstand, is to remove the giant bolt that goes through the frame and through that aluminum spacer that blocks access to the switch. The bolt is tapped out or drawn out using the threads on one end of the nut and a succession of random washers, spacers, etc, the idea being to add spacers by increments and use the nut and threads to pull the thing out.
On my bike, at least, that bolt goes through a band that holds up the exhaust, through the forward part of the foot peg bracket, through the frame, through an extension on the bottom of the tranny casing, then through the spacer, on both sides. My fear is that I'll take the bolt out and the whole bike will fall into a random heap of parts, but those who have done it say, "Fear not." Some block up the engine but other say this isn't necessary. I'll block it up.
Prying out the spacer, apparently, is a grim ordeal involving muscle and leverage, but not too much. The switch is easily replaced, but apparently there are two, the old and the new, that are not electrically interchangeable, so you have to be sure to get the right one.
I like the idea of grinding down that spacer a tad to get it back in a little more easily, but maybe there's a good engineering reason why it's so tight. I'd hate to grind off a fraction of a millimeter and induce some kind of spacer-related death wobble. Again, from what I've read elsewhere, it can be tapped back into place as is with a plastic or wooden mallet. Then the giant bolt goes back through. It is to be tightened it in increments, going from side to side.
What the torque numbers are for the switch and the giant bolt, I'll have to find out. Does anyone know?
Also, does anyone know if the neutral switch iuntil fall s exposed during the partial dis assembly required for an in-the-frame spline lube? If that's the case, I'll just add a little gear oil and park on newspaper until fall when I plan to lube the splines.
I replaced the oil-light swith last year, which was very easy, but I suspect the neutral switch is of a somewhat similar design. I couldn't tell whether the leak was through the wires or around the edge of the hard plastic sealant. In any case, the switches are old and exposed, so it figures they'd eventually give out.
Speaking of which, my bike will turn over 100,000 kilometres this tank of gas. The last 6,000 are mine.