Originally Posted by 996DL
Woody, I'm about to check the torque and true on extremely low mileage wheels (550 miles) on a 07 DR650. I've got a Fasst Company adj. torque wrench and the listed oem specs are 3 ft/lbs or 36 inch/lbs.
I would like to be able to achieve evenly retorqued spoke nipples, without throwing out the probable good true of these wheels. I will have prelubed the spoke nipples and have the instructions at hand, for applying the every fourth spoke approach. Say the wheels are in true presently, should I check for the spoke "tone" first and address any that are dead sounding first, or strictly just begin with a full rotational retorque, backing off each nipple first and then bring back to 36 inch/lbs ?
Gave this new spoke torque wrench to a friend with an 07 CRF450X with 28 hours on it and only snugged spokes according to "ring" having been done up to this point. With lubed spoke nipples and breaking the nipples free before retorquing to oem specs using every fourth spoke, he ended up with the wheels out of true and had to finish by retruing in the traditional methods, loosen across draw in etc...
What are your opinions on the use of this torque wrench on these low mileage DR wheels ?
OK 996DL,,,i can see by your post #1203 that i didn't answer your questions to your satisfaction,,,so let me try again,,
i obviously answered your last question and tried to share with you the secrets of getting the job done with or without a torque wrench...
i am very curious what Faast Company provided you with instructions on using their tool.
FYI,,you have created a scenario for me and yourself that has created a whole host of extra variables to contend with and even more assumptions,,
a,,the 'probable true' of the wheel
,,it's either true/within spec or it isn't
b,,i will have 'pre-lubed' the spoke nipples,,
to me a pre-lubed nipple is one that is clean and has a drop of oil on it as well as on the clean spoke threads BEFORE iassemble it,,, ie so that i can count on an accurate reading which includes the oem suggested torque X the COF= the modified spec ..i bet your idea of a pre-lube is putting a drop of oil on both ends of the nipple on a wheel that most probably already has dirt that worked it's way up the threads of the nipple!!! add som hi pressure car wash and it's jammed in there even further.
YOUR EXPENSIVE TORQUE WRENCH WILL ONLY TELL YOU THE RESISTANCE between the nipple and thread +niipple head and the rim...see i just tossed another variable that can change the reading,,,, ie the resistance between the nipple head and rim where it seats, did ya get any oil there too??? 'twould change the reading...HENCE listening to the sound/pitch of every 4th spoke tells ya more real quick than looking at your torque reading
so yes start with checking the tone and getting em to sound even
c,,,your friends experience backs up what i've been trying to explain all along
REMEMBER: every time you are turning one nipple it increases the tension on some spokes a swell as decreasing others
!...the majority of torque readings are done with DRY....CLEAN nuts/bolts or spokes n nipples...lubricated stuff changes the reading as well as dirty or rusty/corroded stuff..hence you need to reconfigure your torque setting to the type of lubricant you are using,,every lubricant has a coefficient of friction
2,,,use your spoke-torque wrench to get a sense of what the manufacture called for dry...GET THE FEEL OF IT...ALL YOUR spokes SHOULD FEEL READ the SAME AFTER YOU ARE DONE TRUING THE WHEEL
3,,,the secret is to loosen then tighten,,it'll help find overtorqued spokes,,nuff said,,,get the wheel to be located properly,,,and move no less up/dowm or left/right than the manufacturer calls for...
4,,,ideally ALL the spokes must sound the same,,ie doing the same amount of work,,,minimally ,,,you want all the sets that are going CW and/or ccw to sound the same in each set....
5,,,you WANT ,,,,,ALL the spokes to be doing the SAME AMOUNT OF WORK
6,,,,YOU want ALL the spokes to be doing THE SAME AMOUNT OF WORK,,,,AND,,,have your rim be properly located in relation to the hub,,ie: called 'offset'
,,,AS WELL AS,,,,being within the manufacturers specs for latitudinal run-out ie 'wobble'
AND longtitudinal run-out ie 'hop'
7,,,then get rid of the torque wrench unless you like an expensive clunky tool for truing
we have short_light spoke wrenches to do the quick pre truing ,,then use an 8'#er for cranking em down
8,,,grab a beer and celebrate