Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

I wouldn't replace a bike battery with anything but an AGM type (like the stock one).

What I am wondering -- is why an AGM battery only lasted for 3 years. I sifted through a lot of the internet while deciding on a R², and don't recall any non weight related battery musings. So, any ideas what may have taken yours out?

I'm not certain this particular Yuasa lasts as well as they generally do....seemed like it flopped after about 3.5 years in an XT I owned.

Sarah

Its likely dead because this is the 4th or 5th time I've completely discharged it at least. Now I should clarify, its not dead dead, just weaker than I want when I depend on my bike for daily transport. It struggled to start my bike yesterday after a few hours on the charger before work and after a vigorous 20min ride to work on the way home, but it did start, barely.

I have had to put a battery tender pigtail on all my bikes. You can buy extra ones on Amazon. I have never seen them come separately at the store.

Jäger I have a similar bladder from Just GasTanks - http://www.justgastanks.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=365&products_id=1028
Haven't crash tested it but seems pretty tough. Maybe one of them will work for you.

You can go to the auto parts store and buy two pronged trailer connectors.
The ones I buy have a connector on each end with a wire between them. Cut the wire and install ring connectors on the wires. Wa la you have two battery tender pigtails for about $3.00 US!
I usually mount one on my handlebars to power my tank bag. Works great and much cheaper than BMW plug.

I wonder if one of those patch kits for inflateable kayaks would work.. they are made with a real tough material.. pvc infused fabric, & i would think the solvent/adhesive would resist fuel. The location of the hole is tough.. the patch would have to wrap around it, but it might be worth a shot. It's useless as is, anyway.

You might also try a 2 patch fix.. put one on the inside, folded inward, & another on the outside.. after cleaning up the frayed bits, it might help it hold better.
scotty

+1 I've only had the stock battery in, with no tender. But i also rarely go long without riding it, so it doesn't sit long.

I had 3+ years from a stock drz battery, & am on my 3rd year with the wr. I do not see the cost/benefit in changing from an oem battery. The sealed batteries are much better than the old capped cell batteries.. no acid spilling with dumped over.

But if the battery has had a hard life.. lots of deep cycling, or sitting in a drained state, you can tell it's on it's last legs, & you might as well get a new one.

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Our bikes live on Battery Tender Jr., every time they sit overnight, unless away from home. To me it's like buying life insurance - just seems prudent to do it, so I do. Can't say what would have happened if I didn't use the BT; maybe nothing?

The Battery Tender Jr comes with 2 sets of harnesses, 1 with alligator clamps and one with ring terminals. After I use the ring terminal harness, I just cut off the clamps version, crimp and heat-shrink on 2 ring terminals, so I get 2 harnesses with every BT. And we have 3 BT Jrs, so I haven't run out of harnesses yet.

Extra harnesses are available from the manufacturer for less than $10, but so far I have never had to buy one.

GSBS - Nice video.

Wow, you're fortunate to have riding like that right from your driveway. I'm jealous.

Like those Double-Take Mirrors too.

Thanks!

Yes, I'm pretty happy where I live.

Real quick if anyone can help me out.

Torque specs for top and bottom rear shock mounting bolts. And top side chain roller too..if you have it.

I think I downloaded the manual, but damn if I know what I did with it.

EDIT: I found it on netbook. I got upper at 29 ft/lbs and 38 ft/lbs for lower. Please confirm.

Yep... just looked in the service manual - 29 upper/38 lower.

And, it shows "17 ft/lbs for drive chain tensioner bolt (upper, lower)."

OK, thanks.

One more thing?

On the stock rear shock, can the rebound be turned out( direction B) past where the clicking stops???

I just installed my newly re-valved shock, and was playing with the settings to see where I wanted it. I was very surprised to see that I could just keep turning it out. I could not remember if the stock shock did that too.

also, is there a diagram anywhere for the internal parts of the rear shock?? its not in manual or on parts fiche...like the front forks are.

Thanks. I think I was actually able to turn it past 30 something clicks out. I am not sure if that is because the valve was replaced with a different one.

I am gonna call the shop that did the work tomorrow and ask them about it too.

I do the same - and all of my accessories use the same type of connector so I can swap around (GPS, mini compressor, etc.) Nice thing is that I also have one on a cigarettelighter plug, so the same stuff works in the cages, too.

BUT: be certain to get the polarity correct! On one side the red/positive will be the protected contact, on the other side it will be exposed. Positive-protected goes on the battery side to avoid shorts to the frame, etc. and the positive-exposed side is used on the accessory side. If you need to use one of the "accessory" connectors on another battery, of course you can just reverse the wires, but then it"s a good idea to obscure/re-lable the standard red/black so others or a forgetful you know what you've done.

This will be obvious advice to many, but I've seen a CB radio smoke because someone just connected the red to positive and black to negative without thinking about which end of the connector he was using.

I take care of that when mounting on bike!
Be sure and connect the Male(exposed) end of your connector to the ground when installing on the bike.

Just a follow up. I spoke to the guy that did the shock work for my shock. He said its normal for the clicker to turn out past the useable range. I had just wanted to make sure I did not mess anything up with doing that. He said it was no issue.

I'll be testing the shock out tomorrow night.