bean can ignition advance module rebuild

I did that too and mine keeps workin.

as is.

Yea, I'm gonna fire mine up and see if it runs... if not I'll pull the bean can and invert that piece and try again

Ref the points in a bean can.

I tried a 1980 bean can on my mono. The advance curve from the points unit was less than the Mono's standard can so if the bike was ticking over correctly you didn't get full advance at the top end. Mine had a boyer conversion in it so the curve could have been down to that. It's worth checking the advance curves before spending all that cash on a points can.

A better modification would be to fit a 2nd hall sensor in your existing can. Frank Warner, from this parish, did an excellent writeup here --> http://www.geocities.com/fwarner_au/mc_things/bmwr_ign_sensor.html

I bought several Hall sensors from Newark electronics but I see these guys have them for $19 each http://www.bbautomacao.com/home_hall_effect_vane_sensors.html (it's the BBHME56 sensor).

I think I remember reading somewhere that the boyer ignitions had a problem with advancing beyond the intended full advance. That is, above 3k rpm, the intended max advance, the boyer ignition continues to advance. I'm not sure where I read that though.

I've got a Boyer on my 90/6 that does this. It's the analogue model. To get the bike to tickover correctly you have to live with a flat spot below 3k and too much advance at the top end. Not clever and it will be replaced by points very soon.

I had a micro digital fitted in the bean can that didn't advance enough for the 81 on engine. I'm assuming that the heavy flywheel bikes run less advance.

The microdigital I have on my R75 advances up to 4200 revs. I have set it to the timing mark at 3200 revs as normal and it gives me a bit more advance than stock at 4200 revs.

I did this in error origonally , but when I set it to the "correct " setting it didnt run as well so it was returned to the wrong setting. This bike has 900 barrels and pistons set to give squish.'Tickover doesnt corncern me as I live outside the city and dont to club runs---------

My low comp light flywheel R100 GS likes less advance than stock - and this has helped to remove the stock bikes flat spot around 27-3200 revs.

I plan on hi comp pistons with squish in the GS, with a Boyer ignition in a points bean can . I will order the one which gives the latest curve, which I think will give me the most options.

sorry Gage. Slow on the list lately. Too busy.

I'd do the same. If it's 180 out, it might just minutely change the timing and you did that by removing it anyway so no biggy.

And yes, if it's wrong, only 1 way to fix it.

Better late than never

Still waiting on my crank nose bearing anyway...

good grief, I feel your pain bro...

after the picture in your "so i sold my GOOD PARALEVER and bought a JUNK MONOLEVER" thread, I understand more now and posted solution. Doesn't matter which way that thing is on there.

And the phil collins comparison is striking. Eerily striking. Don't feel bad though... people used to tell me I looked like Opie.

Dude, jealousy is an evil emotion....

Update on my side... after stripping and cleaning my can I had a backfire.... after finiding I had my timing wrong, and then swinging it all the way to the end of the can's adjustment I find that while the timing is now spot on, I still have a slight pop... might be carb synch so I will re-set that first..

If that doens't fix things (or perhaps regardless) I'm gonna pull the can and rotate the key locator 180 degrees and see what happens

Slight pop -> lean idle mixture

you would think, but I took the mixtures out to where the idle stumbled turned in a tiny bit and has the same pop...

I am thinking unsynched cables and perhaps one butterly is closed while another is open under very small throttle openings

Is that another proper way to do it? I have the rpm not coming back fast enough to idle (engine brake not as effective as it was), and I am thinking too lean mixture (valves are freshly adjusted at 4/8) as I have a bit of popping too. Can I use your procedure? How much is tiny?

Have you cleaned your ignition advance weight set-up?

Mine had been doing that hanging at a higher idle a bit for years and never popped, as soon as I cleanded the advance it stopped completely...

OMEGA Ignition

You could open the intake to 6 and no one would know.

I think the valve adjustment is designed to drive me nuts. I know I cant fit the .2mm in to the intake, so it must be good.

Isnt hanging idle a possible sign of small air leak? I just did a valve and carb adjust...Used Bings idle procedure. Slight popping is lean, I heard, as well. And on Decel it would on the idle circuit. I've been popping on decel since I put the Staintune and Ypipe on.

If the idle hangs or increases at a stop then it is probably the can - easy way to tell is to shut the bike off and then re-start - usually it will return to set idle unless really dirty like mine was

Air leak - mist a little starting fluid/ether around the joints and see if it increases from a steady idle or blows up

Had a great time last weekend rebuilding the carbs with the full Bing kit and re-cleaning the can again. I had to special order the tri-flow lub I've heard ya'll talk about

The amount of crap around the main jets after 50k miles was totally astounding

this ain't soundin like bean can talkin to meh.

Put this stuff in the Phil Collins paralever jealousy neverending upgrade thread.