BMW R1150RT / 1200RT / R1250RT Mega Thread

Don't let the clutch out so fast, and remember to add throttle to match the lower gearing. Problem solved.

Thanks for the reply Doug, now please forgive the ignorance but what exactly is the BMW Repair Connector? :eek1
My bike is a 2001 RT and the cable is the Garmin-supplied motorcycle kit with the multiple cable with two bare connectors.

Regards to all C

Doug, i wish it was that simple. I've been riding motorcycles almost 50 years, and have learned every trick in the book to achieve smooth shifts. The best I have come up with for this bike is to blip the throttle as I pull in the clutch, and as the revs begin to fall slightly ease the clutch out as I engage the lower gear. It is a tricky shift that I get right about half the time, the rest of the time is no less a clunk than other methods, to include the one you describe. I had a 09 GS with the same challenge. Mostly this is the 3 to 2 shift. I expect it on the 2 - 1 shift, and going up through the gears is not a problem.

Our gearboxes are famous for being clunky and loud, and we have accepted that as just being the way they are. My question is if that can be a contributor to the high failure rate of the downstream components. The question is still an open one for me.

Other opinions?

The "Repar Connector" is the plug with bare wires that matches the socket on the bike. Check with your dealer and see if there is one for your 2001. I am not sure what that part number would be, and if you even have one like the later bikes.

I think your bike is pre-canbus so you should also be able to simply locate a switched 12vdc source and tie into that. GPS's do not use much current, and their wiring harnesses as supplied have an inline fuse, so should be no problem. My personal preference in doing this is to solder the connections and cover with head-shrink tubing for insulation, but I am kinda anal about electrical wiring in motorcycles, boats and aircraft.

Plan B for you would be to simply add a switching fuse block and power the GPS through the block. An example is like this (my setup):

Hmm... Is the clunk you are hearing occurring when you press the shift lever with the clutch pulled in? I am not clear if the clutch is pulled fully, or if you are shifting while in the friction zone (some loading in the transmission), which would cause a jerk if the engine speed is not fully matched with the transmission. If you are describing the clunk you hear when shifting with the clutch is pulled in, that is not going to stress the U-joints as the drive line is not connected at that point.

My RT clunks sometime on downshifting with the clutch pulled in fully. Guess that is BMW "character" !

Something you might try is to preload the shifter lightly for the downshift, and without pulling the clutch in, roll off the throttle very slowly and see if the transmisson downshifts smoothly. This sounds silly, but you can do a smooth downshift without clutch if necessary, as easily as upshifts. Most convenient with broken clutch cables !

+1
Only use the clutch to stop/start and if i'm not paying attention and stuff up an up/downshift.

Get the odd clunk but generally reasonably smooth for a boxer g/box

Shane


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

"but generally reasonably smooth for a boxer g/box"

And that is my point. We know that boxer g/box are generally NOT smooth, and some are much worse than others. I have riden boxers with transmissions that shift nicely, so not all are afflicted, fortunately. I unfortunately have gotten two that are. My K12RS was not Suzuki smooth, but was acceptable. My question is not whether or not they can be shifted smooth with any of the techniques that Doug has described (and yes I've tried them all), but if those bikes with g/boxes that do NOT shift smoothly likely to be the ones with downstream drive train problems.

On this bike and the GS I had before the 3 - 2 shift is not that much different than the 2 -1 shift. Question is still open... if the rather unpleasant "clunk" is a contributor to downstream drivetrain problems. Not trying to beat a dead horse, but to figure out if I should be thinking of finding something else to ride at the 36K warranty expiration point!

I love the boxer motor, and the RT is a fabulous mile eater, but when it gets tight or in slower traffic it is painful!

Thanks,

Jim
Canton, OH

I really like the motor on my bike('09), wind protection, etc, but the transmission and dry clutch annoy me each time I ride. I've owned a few bikes at this point, one of which was a GS of the same year. All of those bikes I could get smooth shifts and didn't really think about what I was doing. It was nice. This bike on the other hand is a pain in the ass. Off the line, I have to be cautious not ride the clutch leading to jerky motion from a full stop. Shifting after that is clunky at best. I think a few times it even dropped a gear on me from 6th to 5th. Hoping that was just my foot resting on the shift lever. Probably all user error, but I just can't believe that after 10K I don't have this figured out. Tested a couple HD touring bikes and the shifting was so smooth and easy in comparison. And that right out of the parking lot, first time riding the bike.

I'm about 10,000 miles into this bike. Hope I get better soon.

After a '05 GS and a '09 GSA I find the transmission on the '12 RT very smooth.I don't have any problems shifting,up or down.I think the steep driveline angle on the GS/GSA might add to shifting problems.

Try checking here http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51765&rnd=08102012 in the parts fiche under R1150RT (61 – Electrical System, 61_2484 - REPAIR CABLE MAIN CABLE HARNESS and 61_2485 - REPAIR CABLE MAIN CABLE HARNESS) where you will find descriptions and photos of the various repair connectors that may be of use.

Cheers!

Thanks for the link, I'll keep the page on the iPad and take it to the dealer in Spain where I hope it gets done, I just don't have the time to work on it myself (not that I would be any good at it).
I appreciate the help and will report back.
Safe rides, FR

Has anyone tried to pair a Schuberth SRC system with the BMW radio on the RT? Is that possible?

No it's not possible. I had the same problem and you will need to return it to your BMW dealer and buy the bmw unit, about $20.00 more. My dealer didn't realize it wouldn't work either. As you found out if you have the NAV IV gps it will match up with the SRC and you can program your Blue tooth cell phone through the gps to work also but the BMW radio system is not compatable through Blue tooth with the SRC.

Darn. Is it possible to pair the BMW radio to the Zumo then the Zumo to the SRC?

Not that I'm aware of. Talk to your dealer or contact www.Revzilla.com They are a great source of info. They clued me in on the SRC that my dealer sold me.

looking to buy a '97 r1100rt next week.100k.New cables,fuel pump and lines,shocks,clutch,60amp alternator(10k ago)
Driveline inspected and serviced last mounth.
i owned the same bike before and to me this is the best one

We look forward to pics once you get 'er home...!

The early model RT's are the bikes the engineer intended it to be. Right before the guy's in manufacturing made all the little changes for ease of building them.

In honor of all my Harley riding co-workers......

Just check the r1100rt today.looks like new even with 100k miles.the owner was a test rider for BMW of North America.
Compression test shows left cylinder 195 and right 200.I guess this is pretty good.He also show me receipts for ove r
2000 USD spend for maintenance last year.I will try to get it in the nex couple of cats