The Anatomy Of A F650gs Dakar 12k Service

You consider that pooping on a thread? You've been around here long enough to know what poop looks like and suggestions on time savings isn't it.

hey rob, guess what got here about 20 mins ago?

the reason the tank is pulled is because in most shops, bikes are tied to lifts and its easier to remove it and let it hang then move the bike around.

the oil line can be worked around, but why? you run the risk of rounding the tensionor bolt out. which gives you alot more room to work when yanking out the cams.

why in gods green earth would i want to ziptie the sprockets to the cam chain? makes no sense. they gotta come out.

i am having alot of fun with this though. i have probably two more posts before i am finished.

I see your point on the oil tank/lift.

You don't need to work around the oil line or even touch the cam chain tensioner bolt. Zip tie the cams to the cam chain so you don't lose your timing. Remove the cam carriers and set aside. Now wiggle the front cam until it comes loose. You now have enough room to replace the both the intake shims. Repeat on the back cam for the exhaust. I'll try to find a picture which will explain this better than I can.

Here is a pic

No need to get your knickers in a wad.
My message is to someone who knows who they are.

No problem. I thought your knickers were in a wad. Hi Poops whomever you are.

the only time you should touch those bolts is if you are working on a central tunnel dohc 4 cyld. just pull the cams on singles and anything with side driven cams. and as for the timing, you put it together the way it came apart.

Those brown shirted assholes!
Wait, I seem to recall another group of a holes in brown shirts...

you lost me rob.....:huh

did you still want to come over and wrap this up? we might be done by two or three pessimistacally, midnight optimistically....damn, two big words back to back:eek1 did i spell em right jeb?

oh, i just got it. a little slow on the uptake...

i am out of here. will see you tuesday.

What a PITA. Makes any other bike look brilliant. I know what d/s bike I WON'T be buying.

the service between a 640 adv and this bike are very close. the suspension fluid change is much easier on the dakar. the valves are harder to adjust, but done only every 12k versus 6k for the katoom. so it is really a wash. its just that i am breaking it down move for move, and since you have an obvious dislike for the bike, you see the negative. whatever, very few ktm riders are going to trade there 525 in on a dakar. that would mean you would actually have to ride the bike you bought instead of trailering it everywhere!

Removing a pair of cams and going through the whole shim and bucket thing is a real hassle compared to the screw adjust ones like the LC4 uses. It's racier and I understand the trade-off to get high RPMs, but not worth it for this use IMO. I cannot believe how much you have to remove to get at the head. I know those Rotax engines are really smooth and the fuel tank below the seat means it carries it's weight low so guess that's the trade-off.

I rode my friend's F650GS and was impressed by how smooth it was and easy to ride. But it's definitely more of a streetbike than I'm looking for....seems a 640e is what I need to add to my 300 2-stroke. Incidentally, I've been driving BMW cars for a very long time and do all my own work on them. Fortunately, they're much more straightforward than this.

Man, and I was actually considering doing this job on my '02 Dakar over the weekend. Now, I'm not so sure about it. Yeah, I do all my own light maintenance and have even put in an Ohlins shock without much difficulty, but this looks like a good way to screw up the engine even worse then it was if you're not an experienced mechanic with a full set of tools.

How much is the BMW shop gonna charge me for the shim change (assuming they need changing)?

there should be one flat charge just to check them, if they need adjusting then the labor and parts will go up accordingly. the shims cost about 35 from max. sometimes there is an shim exchange. if there is not, get your old ones back. keep em honest!

listening to all the responses to this is making me realize i do not charge enough.

Colorado Uli,

You have a single-spark bike with shim over bucket. It'll be easier, at least that's what I keep telling myself, haven't had to adjust anything yet. And we can use KLR shims, supposed to be cheaper,too. If you decide to use BMW shims it pays to shop around a little, evidently the price of shims varies a great deal shop to shop; seems like somebody said Irv Seaver had extra-good prices. Look here for how-to:
http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/Valve_Shim_Change_FAQ_GS.htm

Sarah

hey dakar guy,
would you do a service write up for me on advrider? as you know, i have an xr650L and it needs some service. what is your cell number? What are your shop hours?



Maybe we can put on the header pipes and adjust the carb. I also need my brakes done and fluids changed. I haven't changed my brake fluid in years! It is a 2003, do I need to worry about a fork oil change?

I am also thinking of getting a ktm 530exc r or ktm640a. I haven't decided yet. Question is, i know you know the honda inside and out but are you comfortable working on ktm's?

And as far as b rob's bike, it needs a chain lube and you need a few beers!

My shop was going to charge about $350 for the 6k service, which includes a valve check.

It can easily be done over the weekend, if you plan it right. Removing all the parts to get to the valve cover takes about 20-30 minutes max. The only delay you may have is if you're valves are out of spec and you don't have any shims. Then you have to get some.

IIRC, the tools you need are mostly torx bits, a 6mm and 8mm allen, a tdc bolt (home made), a 15/16" and 10mm socket and feeler guages. I use a torque wrench to button everything back down to specs.

Changing the oil takes about 15-30min. depending on how long you let the oil drain. I bought a cheap funnel with a diameter slighty larger than the oil filter and cut it it so it would jam up nicely below the filter housing to minimize the mess. I stuck the end of the funnel and to a 24oz bottle (a 12oz wold work) and taped it so the oil would drain into that.

Once you check the valves. Write down the specs. If one needs changing
then pull the cams out and measure all the shims. It will help you be ready for next time.

Before I pulled the cams on mine I marked my the position of the cam marks at TDC on my yellow chain guide with a permanent marker.

I pull the cams out on mine (instead if tensioner bolt method). It was difficult to get the back one out first, but once I placed a round lever in the cog hole and gently pulled up on it it came off easy.

If you need more details than this awesome post provides, check the FAQS at http://www.f650.com there's even two videos on checking the valves.

s: same here. thing is, I've had a hardon for an F650GS for a while now. Wanted to trade my 650R for one.

Glad that's past

Granted the first time will take you much longer, but it takes relatively very little time to do this, especially if the valves are in spec. Plus by taking all that stuff off, it forces you to inspect the air cleaner, battery, etc...