Hey everyone. You know the drill- you buy a new bike, take a few rides, and realize that you need to fix and upgrade things- and that list usually includes some wiring projects. This bike will be used year round, and will be used for both commuting and adventure rides (with singletrack, etc). The need for grip heaters has made me want to think out my long-term plan for the bike, and handle the wiring upgrades in a well though out manner, with a quality extensible installation job. Here's a diagram I just drew that outlines what I'm planning- the one correction would be to run the accessory circuit from the battery rather than the switched relay (since there's a switch to turn it off, and an LED that shows when it's on). Full size: http://farm9.staticf...3304eaa1d_o.jpg I'm still sorting out the components list, but I plan to get a 3-fuse relay switched circuit from Eastern Beaver: http://www.easternbe.../3_circuit.html as well as waterproof toggle switches with rubber boots, etc. I'm currently thinking to mount this in a box that bolts on partially covering the handlebar top clamp. I may also do a Highway Dirt Bikes billet top clamp. It would be great if I could mount the 3-fuse block up front to make future wiring easy, but that may not be necessary... (can tap into wiring in box to add additional accessory items, etc). What do you all think? Feedback welcome!
Depending on how the grip heaters are wired internally, both of your hi/lo LEDs are likely to be lit at the same time regardless of where your grip heater switch is set. This is why... The high and low circuits in the grip heaters are not isolated from each other. They are both connected together at the ground side. So, when you are on low and the low LED is on, and only the low side of the heater element has current, that current will feed back through the heater element and then light the high side LED. You can solve this by putting a diode in line with each LED to prevent reverse current flow. If you need a diagram, let me know.
Mac- thanks for the feedback. I was thinking to get the Moose racing grip heaters- I'll check to see how the wiring works on those. Sounds like a couple diodes would work well to solve that problem if there's an issue with common wiring on the high/low circuits...