Ask Woody About Your Wheels

It is often that customers call us for spoked wheels to replace cast wheels, being concerned with everything from how the bike looks to the threat of irreparably damaged cast wheels on Adventure tours. For this reason, most Adventure touring companies, like GlobeRiders, require bikes have spoked wheels. Below are numbers that provide even more incentive to go spoked and still be tubeless.

The R1200GS cast wheels with spacers/bearings weigh in at:
Front 2.5x19 - 15lbs 13oz
Rear 4x17 - 12lbs 4oz

Our R1200GS wheels with our billet Superlite hubs with spacers/bearings and dual disc carriers, Excel rims, Stainless Spokes and Nipples in the Superlace pattern, and sealed for tubeless:
Front 2.5x19 - 10lbs 12oz
Rear 4.25x17 - 11lbs 4.5oz
or
Rear 3.5x18 - 11lbs

We'll do similar tests with the cast wheels from the F650GS Twin cast wheels.

Is there a certain time of the day/week that is best to call to talk to someone about wheel setup and work?

It would be best during our business hrs. 830-530 monday-friday. Depending on what you want we have a couple guys to help you out. But if you need custom wheel sets for your bikes it would be Zach that you want to talk to.

thanks Zach

I have five OE wheels for my F800GS, one pair with TKC80s and one pair with Scorpions, and an extra front with a dented rim.

Can OE front and rear hubs be laced to OE BMW HP2 rims for tubeless DS tires? (Or perhaps an R1200GS 19" rim.)

Fred

thanks W.......


quality built and awesome service





Q: the rear stays 17, but with the lack of knobs, the OD is now smaller. my speedo reading is about 5 miles faster than actual at 70 mph. is there a way i can calibrate the speedo? google searched it and found nothing, except the speed sensor is picking up the rear wheel rotation. hahaha....i'm putting more miles than i actually ride.


the 990 is my friend's bike; W also did the whole thing, which got me to get a set as well.

Hi,

We can't lace the 36 hole F800Gs hubs to the 40 Hole 1200 rims. What we have done is laced excel 19''/17'' rims to the stock hubs and sealed them for tubeless tires. It works great, but we can only seal 19'' and smaller diameter wheels with a safety bead on the rim.

If you have any other questions, you can give us a call at 303-936-0232, or email us at woodyswheelworks@gmail.com

thanks
zach

Aren't they manufactured? Inquiring minds want to know.
I would like the peace of mind on my KTM 990 Adv to know I've got a few seconds after a blowout to get the bike under control.

Ted

you are not alone with that inquiry,,,

FYI,,there's only one 1.85x21 40hole rim and it is used on R100GS/PD aand the HP-2 sporting a safety bead

we routinely transorm a plethora of front BMW 19 wheels to 21''

the only other 21 eim with a sfety bead is the 2.15x21 made by Buchanans

IMHO it is too soft and too wide for the work we need it foe.

i am working on a propriatary 1.85 x21 7000 series extrusion die as i write,,someone has to fill the gap,,i've asked for that size years ago

we'll see
will keep ya posted
woody

I am about to order an off road oriented wheelset. I ride fast logging roads and rocky two track and have beat the snot out of my stock front rim. I still do a fair amount of highway miles.....should i do the 21x1.6 or the 1.85. Im running d606 on the fron and am thinking 18x3.5 on the rear.....whats is your experience in this regard.

Thanks in advance for your advise

In our experience's the 1.6 x 21 would be best for running low tire pressure's and riding very aggressive off-road. Otherwise the 1.85 x 21 excel rim is fine for everything else and helps the tire life out on-road.

The rear 3.5 x 18 will be better for more aggressive tire choice's, and can still use the 150/70-18 tire for off-road. The 2.5 x 18 will work best if you drop the tire pressure and are more aggressive off-road.

You can contact us at 303-936-0232, 1-866-936-0232 toll free or woodyswheelworks@gmail.com

thanks zach

I'm assembling a 2.15x19 inch rim with a KTM 450 front hub. Since the rim is designed for a rear hub, the spoke holes are drilled at an angle to reach a wider hub. (rear hub is about 5 inches wide and front is about 3") This is causing a slight bow to all the spokes.

Is it acceptable to modify the spoke holes with a drill bit to obtain proper nipple trajectory? Thanks WWW.

we do that everyday,,,
re-drilling for new spoke angle is just part of the process,,it provies relief for the side of the nipple,,,as soon as ya tighten the nipple the old seat will interfere with the head of the nipple,,

hence,,phase/step #2 is necessary ,,ie counter-sinking the the rim to match the new spoke direction.. we have specially made countersinks that stabilize the the countersink ie keep it centered in the nioole hole.

FYI we charge $30 for this service,,it is part of the superlacing technique,,usually sme day service

woody

• 
  :huh A "complaint" is so rare on this thread it piqued my curiosity. I looked at the above poster's other posts and found that "cleefurd" had deleted the content of ALL of his other 9 posts shortly after posting the above post and leaving this one undeleted. Very strange indeed.

cleefurd,,,,'tis woody chiming in from northern Germany,,

pal,,,if you are disapointed,,well,,i can assure you that i am even more than disillusioned,,dismayed amd downright disgusted that my troopies handled you and your order in that manner,,,

FYI,,,i/we do our best to maintain the standards and service record i've achieved over the years,,,i give our customers the benefit of the doubt,,,and at days end there's also another side of the story,,, your feedback though is rather sincere,, and makes me believe ya truly know what you are talking about,,m' thinks ya may be a master craftsman/machinist type perhaps...hence,i'm all ears.

FYI,,,i personally believe and demand the notion of EXCELLENCE be a corner stone of the Wheel Work experience,,Quick timely service is another benchmark for most of what we do,,,(custom orders like powdercoated spokes n nipples special rim colors do take additional time)

the other notion has to do with mastery,,,i have always aspired to being a master craftsman and imbue those parameters for my technicians..
we have a poster somewhere that sez:

'a MASTER is someone who builds/delivers his product within specs and as requested,,,,
the first time
on time,,,
everytime.

Sounds simple enough to me....well my gang promised me i needn't worry while i took off on a much needed family reunion in my old homeland...and they wouldn't be there if they hadn't already demonstrated their abilities.

Cheefurd,,i have already set things in motion to make sure you get what you had hoped for. Things have gone awry from time to time ,,often due to product not being delivered a swe requested,,,

I hate using the expression 'shit happens..because IMHO it is a cop out ...You have my assurance,,i will get to the bottom of this and create a win-win scenario at days end,,even though you/we may have gotten off to a rocky start.
Let's continue the conversation via e-mail,PMs and or skype..

thanks for trying to do business with us
i will not abandon my principles or your trust.
woody

we do our best to have our out-sourced work be done at our usual standard level,,'tis hard to find passionate craftsmen these days,,,

woody

Greetings fellow inmates! If you haven't heard, Woody's Wheel Works is going through some major changes. For details visit our all-new website where you can read the May issue of our new monthly newsletter and sign up for receiving them in your email detailing the developments and reporting on all things wheel.

Click The Spoke n' Word

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Woody - just bought these lovely wheels from you a week or so back, for my 950 Adventure.



Can a tube-type tire be run on this tubeless rear wheel, or do I need to specifically run a tire that is compatible for tube and/or tubeless?

well ,,i've heard of people getting away with it,,,IMHO,,the tire companies claim there IS a difference ,,hence i defer to them ...in your case either swap someone for a TL/ tubeless tire for your TT/ tube-type tire and enjoy the benefits of going tubeless...

you could carefully remove the valve stem,,by using an exacto knife aroud the base of the valve stem ,,remove and save it for later use(re-install with a little silicone seal around the base and outside ,,so i töoolks like it does now) no need for a rim band ,,ya have the toughest rim band going

mount and balance your tire

still,,Psssst go tubeless..try it ,,you'll like it,,AND somone spent extra dough$$$ to make em that way

from old germany

woody

.Hey Woody;
Are these rims painted or anodized? They look real nice!
greatnortoni
sometimes when I fall over, I see all the pretty little rocks.

They are powdercoated Repsol orange. Give a holler if you are interested in a set.

Chris