KLR650 Only Thread......

The dyno graph says it to the left, 38.8. Tim says most stock KLRs read abt 33 with stock tires so it looks like I gained about 9 HP from the mods I have done....Oh. I have the 688, ported, big valves, hot cams, full flow exhaust and no air box. Thats pretty much the performance mods...

Nice.
Did you do the 688 kit?

As anyone following the NFL knows, it has lead to unrealistic expectations from the New York Jets as well. Certainly, most observers do not associate them with positive action words; despite expectations, they are, in reality, rather passive.

I forgot abt your question. I edited my previous post...

Thanks!!!

Ok.
So I bought an alleged set of lowering links from and inmate on here.
They supposedly are 3" lowering links.
Not sure about that.
They measure from center hole to center hole 5 5/8".
From outside end to outside end 6 13/16".
Or from inner edge of hole to inner edge of hole 5".
Any ideas if these are stock size or lowering links?
I have nothing to compare them to.

Yep. Longer links equals lower ride.... Its a geometry thing

So you're saying these are definitely lowering links?
Any idea as to how much they lower the bike?

Since they are 5/8" longer (given stock is 5" C/L to C/L) and yours ar 5 5/8" they are definitely lowering links, by how much I dont know. It is such a fast swap out I would just try 'em....

Question for those who have had issues with the footpeg bolts. I went off a small, seemingly harmless jump that even a prius could handle, come to find out that my landing was rougher than expected, due to losing a footpeg. Turns out, the bolts holding the peg in stripped right on out, pulling all of the threads from the frame with them. How would I go about fixing this? Funny thing is I had just tightened the bolts up earlier, they were a tid bit loose.

I was thinking of drilling through the frame entirely then using some grade 8 bolts and nuts. Welding them on, nor welding braces on does not seem optional at this point..

Sounds good Brian. Thanks much!
The reason I got these is because when I put the Progressive 465 w/RAP on my bike, it seemed to raise it higher.
Me being vertically challenged made it more difficult to ride the trails.
So I decided to buy these to see if it would help.
They were cheap enough, only $20 shipped direct to me.
When I get the bike back from the shop, I'll put them on and see how much they lower the bike.

I was told not to drill through the frame unless you weld some sleeves in or it seriously weakens the frame. Mine need to be tightened constantly but have not stripped out yet (a fairly common occurence) so I cant help you with the fix. I think there is a thread on it on the .net site......

I bet you will love the change.....

I would avoid drilling the frame. Some people drill and retap to a larger size bolt, but that has some problems due to the close spacing of the bolts. Others have done what I recently posted:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18526254&postcount=581

I used 2 nuts welded on the back for more thread length along with stronger bolts. Usually the nut that strips.

Is it just me? I'm tired of rehashing the same ole KLR issues....................thinking of selling the KLR, keeping the GS1150 and getting a WR250R.






Am I wrong?

Yes, if you've done any upgrades the only way to get your money out of it is to wear it out.

It wouldn't be from your 8 foot of air jumping earlier huh?

Touche', Gooch; LOL!

Anyone else here have weird "harmonics" issues with their 08+ KLR after installing HT nerf bars and skid plate?.

Figured this may be normal given some "metal to metal" contact with the frame but damn its annoying. I installed everything according to the instructions, using the rubber washers. I get this God aweful noise at around 4K on the tach. Some noise also on the lower end RPM's but the 4K noise is majorly fucking annoying.

Who knows. I think I'm just going to get a helicoil kit to re-do both sides.