phew, just mounted the conti ultra-gatorskin 25c on the vintage hoops I got for my kid's roadie. sweet tires, nice flexible sidewalls, they look and 'feel' (to the touch) like they will ride *MUCH* better than the specialized allcondition armadillo stuff (which ride like rocks on your rim). I pumped them up to 100psi (label said 95-120) looked some more at the vintage duraace hubs. no sign of any P/N's on them. the hub shells just say Shimano (around the center part), they only say Dura-Ace on the dust seals. the rear does have 'TA' stamped under the Shimano logo. the couple drops of triflow that I let seep between the seal and axle seem to have penetrated enough to loosen up the old grease, and they spin pretty darn smoothly now. I still think I might want to clean and repack the rear, there's just a tiny bit of rough, feels like a crusty ball bearing rather than the race as the rough spot is *less* than once per turn, whether I spin the axle or the wheel. these wheels are laced 36H 4-cross with fairly heavy gauge DT spokes (not double butted). they look strong as hell. as I said, Mavic Module-E2 rims, which have a full box construction, and lined spoke nipple holes. this is a random google pic, not mine, but exact same rim. I think I found some keepers, even if they are uniglide instead of hyperglide. the rims look hardly ridden on, as did the crusty old 80s vintage Specialized Touring II 25c tires that were on them.
All the riding I've been doing has affected me in the pool. Oh well. I'd rather ride than be fantastic at UW Hockey no matter how fun it is. Played defense today. Only problem with that was the opposing team's forwards were faster'n our defense! Let a few goals thru that prolly shoulda been stopped, but due to inexperience and lack of O2, they got passed me/us. I can see the difference in my abs. I plan on continuing the UW Hockey as a core workout no matter how tired the legs and lungs become. M
IIRC the Module E2 was the rim right before the MA2 and MA40. Good stuff. Tough rims. Still box-section, so they're not *quite* as tough as say an Open Pro. You can take the locknuts off the NDS and pull the axle out of the DS and clean up in there that way. Prolly don't even hafta take off the cassette if its a UG hub. You DO know to only take off one side at a time, right?! M
re: those mavic rims... I'm curious... how do the venerable SuperChampion Gentlemen compare? thats whats on my old frenchie (probably my 5th or 6th wheelset on that beast of burden). Do I need to remove the dust seals on the hub to get in there and clean out things, or just fish around with qtips or whatever. it seems like getting the bearings back in the DS might be a real bitch with the dust seal that is attached to the cassette rather than the hub. Are these dust seals just press fit? or are they screwed on (they have what appear to be spanner holes on them, even the one thats on the cassette) re: one side, yeah I'm hep to leaving one set of cone+locknut alone when doing hubs. its just been quite a while since I did any good ones (I"m not counting the cheap taiwan tincan hubs that were on that diamondback hybrid I built then flipped) I'm going to need a 2nd 14mm cone wrench... Iv'e got an old 13-15, and a new 13-14, but both the cones and locknuts on these dura-ace hubs are 14mm, and the locknuts have like a flange with a finger knurl on them so I can't use a regular openend, has to be a thin cone wrench.
Dunno they're before my time. Sorry. The dust shields *should* pull straight out. Friction fit. Don't pry hard cause they do bend. IIRC the DS dust cap is the same. Me? if you can help it, leave em on. Less chance of an 'oops!' Clean em out with rags/solvents/q-tips/whatever and good em back up with grease. G'luck! Don't forget to count the # of bearings that come out! IIRC there's 11/side, but that's going from an admittedly foggy memory. Front's (again IIRC) are 3/16th Rear's are 1/4" M
I've never seen a dust cover like that on a cassette. is that common practice on dura ace grade stuff? I figure I'll do the front first as its easier, and only mess with the back after I got it right. I even picked up a overpriced tube of good old Phil Wood bearing grease... although I still can't tell the difference between it and the generic green marine grease I use on trailer wheels, hah. re: cleaning, yeah... wd40 is my standard cleaning solvent, I get it in a gallon can, and use a trigger-squirt bottle. I figure its less abusive than a lot of stuff I could be using. the rare times I need to really degrease something, I use acetone, heh. note to self. gallon can of WD-40 is nearly empty, time to restock.
Funny...My bike hasn't been ridden since May, and I took it down to think about riding on Saturday, and when I hooked up the shock pump I was down about 15 pounds from where it should be. I figured this was from hooking the pump up. My Fox shock did not leak at all. Shitty part is I decided not to ride, my shoulder is not ready, and no need to rush it. Other than my sanity!!!
Did you check the valve core? It is 99% of the reason an air shock looses air. All suspension should be rebuilt on a yearly basis. sometimes sooner, sometimes you can go longer. Air or coil it does not matter, dirt gets inside and will start to score the stanchions. If you keep the shaft of the shock clean and the stanchions clean you can make you suspension last longer. An air spring does have an non linear rate but that is built into most suspension designs. Shocks and forks of today are on par with coil springs and are much lighter.
I dig my CX bikes, I also have a Kona Jake which I really like even with the Sora shifters. I do need to mess with the gearing some on the new C-Dale. My T2000 has a 30/42/52 up front with a 11-34 out back. Granny gear can go up a wall. I'm going to look into getting a 11-34 on the back of my Optimo but I might have to ditch the 105 derailer (Spelling as per Sheldon Brown) and go with a XTR mountain bike derailer or something. Not sure yet.
You could be riding a trainer... At least yer leg would be moving around in circles. I know they suck eggs, but something's better'n nuthin. M
Huh. After the ride down to CADVR, I was pretty happy with my bike and could not see getting a Fargo to replace it even though I really dig the Fargo. Not that huge a diff. The Ti Fargo changes all that. By a lot. The Spearfish looks pretty cool, too.
Missed out on a Fox RP23 on fleabay...dangnabitall. What do you guys know about the Cane Creek Cloud 9? They got a great deal on a trade in of your old shock. Might have to give it a shot. Going to put the hardtail back together this evening so I can have something to ride. That will give me time to sort out the rear shock.
What did you say it was 6" overall eye to eye (fully extended?), 1" travel. What brand shock is it? What bike is it coming off of. Sometimes you will run into compatibility issues with the eyelets. Manitou has some weird stuff going on. I would only buy a Fox rear shock because parts are available in most bike shops and they are pretty easy to work on.
Yeah, I'm coming around on the Fargo concept too. I bought a 29er for bikepacking duty this spring, but it's proven to be less then ideal fitwise- although it's a killer singletrack machine. While looking at bike geometry of bikes that work and those that don't, it's become clear to me the niche the Fargo was meant to fill. While I initially thought of it as something of a "do it all" bike, it seems it's more of a "do something new" bike.
It is a do whatever you want it to bike ! Finally got a flat last night. My first flat change with disc brakes. Couldn't find whatever poked through but there was a hissing noise and mushiness. Maybe time to throw a set of more road oriented tires on, or not .? Sucked as it happened at 7.8 miles just as I was getting good and warmed up. Finished up with 28.5 miles total.
Oooo... Looks like Surly is doing a complete Pug this year as well. And some new rims. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=648722 http://surlybikes.com/blog/ Now if only there were more than two tire choices....
