I need a little help with my 98. I bought it about 6 weeks ago with 2500 miles on it. Took it to Tellico a couple weeks after I bought it and it ran great until the last morning and it starting stalling when I pulled in the clutch and was hard to start when hot. Also starting hesitating on acceleration. Got it home thinking maybe the valves were out so I checked them. Intake spec is .05-.10mm - Valves were at .12mm & .13mm Exhaust spec is .17-.22mm - Valves were at .18mm & .18mm Set them all to the upper limit of spec. Pulled the plug and it was somewhat sooty but not terrible. I replaced the plug, buttoned it up and took it for spin and it ran great. Last night the same stuff started again. I pulled the plug and it doesn't look too bad to me and has less than 200 miles on it. I'm thinking I have a problem with the carb but don't know where to start. Never been in the carb but that never stopped me before. Could the float be sticking? Trash or water in the carb? Do you think some Seafoam in the tank would help? Any advice would be appreciated. Kenny
Your plug looks pretty good to me. I would suggest opening up the carb and cleaning it thoroughly. It sounds more like carburation to me than anything else.
I thought you said the '98 was a 'dirt' model. If that's the case, wouldn't you have brackets that bolt the tank to the frame? I got extremely lucky any bought my IMS off eBay for $60 (+ shipping). Keep an eye open and you may score a used Acerbis for a good price. Yeah, it seems IMS made one tank to fit both models. I checked the Clarke web site (clarkemfg.com). They list a tank for DR250/350 Dirt Model Only and a tank for DR250/350 (All) Dual Sport. The model numbers are different (11317 & 11318 respectively) but the price is the same. The product images are the same, too. So, there's no way to determine how the two are different. They do have a customer service number: 800-232-2002. I've never come across anything that would indicate that to be true. It has always seemed that tanks and bikes are interchangable (as long as the models are the same). The fiche on Ayers shows the difference between the steel (SE) tank and the 'plastic' (dirt) tank and how they mount. It's the same for '97(V), '98(W) & '99 (X) [within model types - dirt & street]. Are you the original owner of the '98? Any chance it's an SE that's been converted to 'dirt'?
The '98 is a dirt model. I misspoke before. The tank on the '98 dirt model does bolt at the front; however, when I tried to put the Clarke tank on the dirt model bike, the slots that fit over the bushings on the SE, don't line up with where the bolts on the dirt model. I had been hoping to somehow make the bushings work where the bolts are, but it would take some re-modeling (welding). I also thought the tanks would be interchangeable. I bought the Clarke tank and put it on my SE. When I bought the '98 dirt, I was going to put the large tank on to it only to find that the bushings were in a different spot. I am not the original owner but bought it from the original owner who is someone I know well. The bike is definitely a dirt model from stem to stern. I recently saved a search in ebay for an acerbis tank. Thank you for the customer service number and the additional information!
depends on the ratio. i started with a 14 front 43 rear. changed the front to a 15 rear still 43. a bigger front sprocket well lower engine rpm. i went from 6400rpm at 65mph to just under 6000 at 65mph. so i'd say a 1 tooth front sprocket change ,would change your engine speed around 300 or 400rpm's at around 60 mph. also chain adjuster moved about 2 numbers i think. so you can change the front sprocket pretty easy if you want to .
I just picked up a 99 350SE myself and it also is a bit sooty on the plug and pipe. I have since been told that a common problem with the older DR's is that the oring gasket that seals the floats in the float bowl will shrink over time and not seal correctly causing this type of problem. Try a new oring for the float seal.
Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'll tear into it in the morning. Is there a special gasket kit for the carb or is it possible to find something local? Kenny
Not that I'm aware of, just individual parts available on line or through your local dealer. BTW, there are two o-rings in the float bowl that go bad. One is for the fuel inlet and the other is for the choke circuit. If you replace one, you should replace them both.
check out your local repair shop and ask if they have a mikuni o-ring kit. you should be able to match them up to the ones you need. most shops do a lot of carburetor repair these days.
i picked up a carb rebuild kit off ebay for my 99350se... was the best $24 i have ever spent on a motorcycle. when i removed bowl... parts just fell out of it. o rings were shot and these parts snap together with o rings sealing them. my bike would not idle, it would slowly flood... and start hard. after installing the kit, starts beautifully and idles perfect... and throttle response is greatly improved. my bike is pretty much stock, but i would say that the carb kit and the raptor petcock were 2 items that really turned my old bike around, and for a combined price of less than $50... a bargain..
Yes, that would be correct. As you discovered, the 'pucks' (S/SE) sit on a post (that's welded to the frame) that protrudes thru the over-the-frame heat shield. The 'dirt' model tank brackets bolt into a threaded stud that's welded to the frame (near the steering head) forward of the heat shield. Yeah, it looks like you have the Clarke "dual sport" tank (#11318) and also need the "dirt model" tank (#11317) for the '98. Perhaps you could sell the Clarke and get an IMS (or the Acerbis which is probably the better choice). Now I have no doubt! Glad I could help shine a little light on the situation - D.
It's not going to be super easy to describe it in this forum. But, I do have a Clymer manual with the wiring diagrams. I'd be happy to make some PDFs for you. I've only owned SE models ('97 & '99). So, I'm not intimately familiar with the 'dirt' model. It's possible you may not even have the wiring to "support" turn signals. In other words, there may be two distinct wiring harnesses; one for the S/SE and another for the 'dirt' model. I do know that my rear turn signals connect to the main harness just behind the left side plate (where the battery is on the S/SE). If there are four extra connectors in that location, you may be able to hook everything up. Perhaps another inmate, who has done this, will chime in. Let me know if you want the diagrams. I would suggest getting a Clymer, though. They're pretty cheap and a good info source.
Yea that would be great if i could get a copy of those pdf's. and ther is only one connecter underneath my left side plate, and it goes directly to the tailight. Off to work, will be back later http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/bncry.gif
I've used Pro Tapers S/E's before and had no trouble putting on handguards, but I just tried to put a set of hand guards on and the threaded insert only goes in about 2 inches before the wall thickness changes and the insert will not go in any further. The bars were ATV Highs and I was wondering if that made a difference. The others were not. Where did you get the smaller inserts from? Thanks, John
what type of oil are you using your DR 350? my situation: have a 91 DR350s only 6,000 miles, Due to back issues and eventualy back surgery (all better now) have not riden my bike in 5 years. cleaned carb starts great don't remember what oil i had in it, but thinking it's close to water by now, type of riding i do, mostly commuting some trails nothing hard core. Due to gearing (low for trails) no freeway driving 50 to 60 mph tops. do you stick with 10w 40 as stated on dip stick or go thicker? full synthetic? dedicated to any one brand ? why? any input would be great. Da Labs
