the DR650 thread

Check here:
http://www.kientech.com/DRZ250DR650TailLightConv.htm

This bolts right on using the same holes and wiring. It's form a DRZ250.
It's what I have. On mine, I still have the stock plate holder/plate light.

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Here's a pic with the smaller tail light, from Procycle. Also, smaller turn signals and the original license plate bracket.

Hey all, suspension question real quick...

I'm about to order a front end "solution kit" from the trusty folks at Procycle. I'm not sure whether I should order straight rate springs or progressive. The fellow at the company recommended .6 or .7 straight rates, based on the information given to him: I'm about 170lbs, I ride very aggressively on and off road, and I often have two panniers FULL of crap.

My question is: Will the straight rates be punishing on pavement in the city? I'm usually told progressive is the way to go. I'm just kind of braindead/ignorant when it comes to suspension, so I'm not fully aware of what I'll be sacrificing/gaining by choosing whichever spring.

For reference, the front suspension is stock on a 2009 with 16k miles. I'm tired of bottoming out off-road...thats the biggest problem. I had a umm...minor engine problem due to that early on in the bikes life. Word to the wise - Make sure you use the proper bolts to attach your skidplates. If you put in the wrong ones, and they are a thread too long, and you bottom out over and over again on a dual sport trip 2000 miles from home, the bolt will punch a hole in your case...

Quicksteel. Trailside fix. 13,000 miles later, I don't lose a DROP of oil from the patch.

Per a recommendation from ProCycle I went with straight rate springs - I don much more street than dirt and I love the front end feel on the street. Also have Intiminators and a Wilber's rear shock. Note that straight rate springs were NOT recommended with the Intiminators but I found there was still too much initial compliance. Anyway I love my current combination for street riding.

suck it up and pay the $125 for this tsukigi aluminum can:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290574579577
or email the seller to see if he will work out a better deal for you - it's been f/a for a few months... i got a titanium iteration and it's a great muffler...



doug s.

PC Solution Kits - .50 straight rate with emulators, 8.3 with Gold Valve. 240 lbs riding, moderately aggressive offroad. Great handling & no bottoming.

If you ride agressively off road the progressive springs will not be enough. They're great for on-road comfort for easy to moderate riding. Once you start hammering on it you need something stiffer.

Damm I now know this happened to another Dr....I will never have a bolt holdoing that part of my shidplate on the bike again.I have used zipties for the back for a while now.. I even had washers to keep the end form sticking out..there is just not enough clearence..

But if the chain is already TOO TIGHT ... and a very heavy rider gets on board, he will compress the suspension fully, which will tighten the chain even more ... stressing all the things you list above. Alignment has little to do with it at this point. A lighter rider will not compress things as much ... thus less stress on the over tightened chain.

The alignment issues effect wear and smoothness and should be checked when adjusting the chain ... but chain slack is the KEY element here. You can still have a TOO TIGHT chain even when all alignment is perfect. I use the Snail adjusters first, then fine tune with alignment tool. Seems to work.
24K miles on last chain. All original bearings at 44K miles.

Well, the second does tend to increase front tire life.

I've been running Vulcanduros on both the 690 and 450 and love them. Get decent life and handle good on road and work well off road. I'm sure that's what I'll go with on the DR.

Sounds right to me. At 13mm of preload the top of the spacer will be sitting about 1/4" below the top of the fork tube (fully extended).

Before you spend more $$ on other springs I suggest you lower the oil level in your forks. I'd suck out about 1" or so and see how it works.

Anybody have a black stock seat in good shape they want to part with? Or even a black aftermarket seat? I'm selling my DR and it has a Russell on it that a buddy wants but I need a replacement.

John

Thanks for the response on this stuff. Looks like it's time for me to tear into the rear end of things. I'm expecting the cush rubbers are old, and I'll have to see how the bearings look. Is it best to clean the bearings with some solvent like brake/carb cleaner? or perhaps kerosene? Then re-grease with waterproof tacky grease. What happens when you over grease them? I've done a few wheel bearings in my life but it's always just been packing in by hand till it looks good. How else could i do it?

Thanks but - I like my stock tank, rarely need the extra gas and don't want to spend alot of money on a huge tank I don't want. I've been using an MSR can for extra fuel, but want just a little more with an easy way to transport it.

This is one thing I am concerned about and the main reason I don't buy some cheap tank to strap to the rear.

I'm still think I can mount it straight to the rear fender where the crossbar is underneath. I haven't seen it done, so I guess i may be the first.

Albie, I know for a fact that has to do with your right hand only having an on/off position. Heavy on the ON.

Has anyone else noticed that in some photos the stock DR650 tool kit is mounted towards the rear of the frame where in other photos it is mounted further forward under the left side cover. It seems logical that it should be mounted further forward under the left side cover ( mine came this way from the dealer), but does anyone know where the "proper" mounting is? I quess it works in either position but it seems like it can be more prone to damage when mounted in the rearward position. Just wondering?


Chris in Topeka

Just ordered a .7 spring rate fork solution kit. Thanks again for all the help! Can't wait to get it installed and start RIDING! Big ups to Procycle.

Disagree, if the chain is too tight, its too tight. Get it right and it works for everyone.

Once the swingarm moves past the tightest point, ie when all 3 pivots are aligned, (I wasn't referring to wheel/axle alignment here, which you may have assumed, but the 3 pivots are countershaft, swing arm and rear axle) it gets looser again, which is the point of the top roller, to try and maintain some tension on the chain. And we know its position is flawed in that respect, which is why I moved mine instead of leaving it off altogether.

Steve