The 78 Goldwing with 22k miles, vetter all around and a hack has just been won on ebay by me! What have I gotten myself into?First thing after Haulbikes gets here in a few weeks is sticking some squared off tires on it. The car isn't attached right now. Can anyone point me in the right direction for instructions how to set it up?
Looks great, congratulations! This should be the link to completed ebay sale here (for pics): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1978-Honda-Goldwing-with-Friendship-sidecar-BMW-GL-1000_W0QQitemZ290291924728QQihZ019QQcategoryZ50002QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Jay at Dauntless is the guy who can set you up with anything and everything for hacks. http://www.dauntlessmotors.com/
I think you've started a new chapter in your biking life. One that's nothing like anyother type of riding, a new adventure. Which I hope you'll enjoy in the future. Keith
Some good informational resources are here: http://www.sidecar.com/links3.asp This is how I go about attaching & aligning a sidecar: <object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=997615&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=997615&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><br /><a href="http://vimeo.com/997615">Setting Up the Sidecar - Alignment</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user371939">Adventure Sidecar</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
Hi Beet, I will try to address the issues you've raised: The blocks were as high as could be used on the bike without interference with other parts. The sidecar straight edge was set up to match. The angle iron used is straight and has no flex in this application. I recheck my measurements and they are reproduceable which would indicate there is not a problem. The measurements are taken off the rear wheel, the front tire size is irelevent as long as it is pointed straight and no wider than the rear. The rear tire needs to be properly aligned in the swingarm as well. The real trick with knobs is to place the straight edge and the wheel in such a way that the knobs don't kick it out of line. Other than that, this works fine for me. There are certainly other methods, some of which may be more accurate. This is how I do it and it seems to work.
Redmenace wrote: The blocks were as high as could be used on the bike without interference with other parts. The sidecar straight edge was set up to match. The angle iron used is straight and has no flex in this application. I recheck my measurements and they are reproduceable which would indicate there is not a problem. The measurements are taken off the rear wheel, the front tire size is irelevent as long as it is pointed straight and no wider than the rear. The rear tire needs to be properly aligned in the swingarm as well. The real trick with knobs is to place the straight edge and the wheel in such a way that the knobs don't kick it out of line. Other than that, this works fine for me. There are certainly other methods, some of which may be more accurate. This is how I do it and it seems to work. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The proof of a decent setup is that the rig tracks well and does not eat tires. One trick that is a good one is to get all tires positioned so the valve stems are down before setting up a rig. Or, at least mark the wheels in some fashion so the position of ithem can be duplicated if the setup is adjusted and remeasured. The reason for this is to get some consitant repeatable figures. Wheels can be out of round as can the surfaces of the tires the straight edges are placed against. Heck on some rigs if you don't like the toe in measurements all you have to do is rotate the sidecar wheel and remeasure the toe in until you are satisfied. Get it?
Yup! Another reason one persons numbers won't work on another's rig. No matter how you take your measurements, do them the same each time or they really aren't very helpful. These are references you use to tune your rig. Once you have it set up and you know you don't have toe out, you are just nudging it to where it works best for you. Handling and tire wear tell you if you have it right. You recheck your numbers to be sure you haven't moved things way out of spec and to evaluate which way you need to nudge it. Remember adjusting leanout can change toe-in and adjusting toe-in can change leanout. The eye can be fooled. So can the memory-write it down!
Vernon wrote: >>>The eye can be fooled. So can the memory-write it down!<< Yes, and I am so guilty on my own rigs of not doing that:eek1 Do initial setup using figures that are in the ballpark.............toe in 3/4" or less, some lean out etc. Then go out and run the thing on the roads or combination of roads you normally woudl run on. If it pulls lean the bike away from the pull....then recheck the toe in. Once you find out how much if any toe in change you have when the bike is leaned in or out you will be ahead of the game. Dunno about others who have been in this for a while but to be candid I have no idea what my settings are on my own rig half the time. After initial setup and getting used to what does what things get tweaked to get it better and better until it feels good and does not wear tires out. At that point I should recheck everything and record it but many times don't. My bad.
I got lazy when setting up my rig and didn't have appropriate length blocks and so I used eyeballs and test drives to get it 'right'. I recently decided to do some more scientific checking and found that my toe-in is .5". What's important as Claude said is that the tires seem to last and the rig handles great
Me too. But the right way to do it is.... One thing I always do is mark my mounts and fasteners. I can tell at a glance if they have moved, which way to nudge things and where to put it back to if I don't like the changes I've made. I do take my time with initial set up and any time I make major changes, such as axle height(different shocks, wheels or radically different tire profile), measuring and remeasuring. When I do make "eyeball" measurements to expedite a change in set up, I am often suprised at what I ended up with when I do get around to taking measurements. There seems to be a pretty broad range that works, at least with my rigs.
Marking things is a good idea. The point is that is is important to be able to get back to where you was from where you are otherwise you won't know where to go after you got to where you are if it isn't the place you want to be and the result may be that you won't end up where you want to be to go somewhere else. Simple.
