2013 KTM Adventure 1190

$15,999 is what, a grand more than a 2013 990?

Or $20/mo....

But I will say it's getting to the price point where taking it out and thrashing it on trails is less attractive than I'd like.

Never the less...if I was a bettin man....I'd bet one of these finds a new home at my house soon.....

Many thanks .....I would never have found it....even where it was behind headlight it was hard to spot as it was tied out of the way. I pity a dealer doing a one off first install he is unlikely to be able to invoice a customer for all the time it takes.
of interest to others who may not be aware of it but there are two ''ACC 1 '' spade connector outlets hiding in the ''box '' in which the lighter outlet up front is mounted. One of which I tested as '' always on '' [ similar color coding to that of the lighter socket except that socket has double wiring making it 2 X 5A=10A yel/red with a brn earth ] The other I haven't checked yet but presume its a ''switched outlet '' in blk/red plus a brn . I normally run a thick cable up the spine of the bike to run extra lights or whatever so adding a relay to this I can also get high power switched up front as well , ( using the switched ACC to energize the relay ].
Now the painful part for some but the simplest way to add outlets/ relays/ access the ACC etc. is to CUT a hole in the side of this ''box'' which I did with a hot knife...comes quite good and is covered by all the plastic bodywork. gives you a nice place to mount things...like I got to make a current limiter for two led lamps I made.........plus maybe a ''pulsar ''.
The next bend and buckle,,,,,,,......I added two 75mm bar raisers between the existing bar clamps and the triple clamp, using 140mm bolts to secure the whole caboose .......now what may be of use to others is how this went cable wise ?? No problem with all the wires and clutch hose. The brake hose comes up a bit short and the mods I did were....bend baster cylinder outlet to better angle.......move whole lever support a bit inward [not a lot needed ......bend the dual hos support mounting lug outward [ its located just inside under tank ]
well so far so good and it looks as if I will be able to stand properly without humping over still to test..{ by way ktm"s ''adjustments '' on the bar clamps and footrests are so puny I don't know why they bother except for the marketing aspect.......

Rode my 1190 r to work this week no oil leaks when I left home , major leak when I got to work . I striped the tank and throttle body's off to find the oil pressure switch had spat out the sealing O ring. Maybe a once off but not good for a bike with 800 km on it. The biggest problem could have been a left turn as the oil leaked onto the left side of the tyre.

<a href="http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/NIKOKTM/media/IMG_0910_zpsc360ea7b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="https://www.advrider.com/advrider-photobucket-images/images/N/NIKOKTM_IMG_0910_zpsc360ea7b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0910_zpsc360ea7b.jpg"/></a>
Unifilter fitted yesterday

How long did it take you to get the body work and tank off to do this? I assume you had to drain the tank? Seems strange KTM made this so hard to change, especially as their dirt bikes have air filter access so wel sorted.

The Unifilter filters need any kind of fuel mapping changes, like the DNA filters?

Suddenly i can make left turn signal by pressing the horn and i get horn when making left turn signal. Also the "back" selector switch is misbehaving. Another frustrating warranty issue to put on the list. My dealer will sure have a handfull at next service....

At least the bike keeps running :)

Audun

Hi Canning,

The dealer do that. They call me the same day the unifilter arrives to do the recall service.But I think the bike will need a fuel mapping. Since I left the dealer, the revs are quite high.

The bike should not require remapping if the only change has been the air filter. We have tried to keep the air flow as close to original as possible. In regards to changing the filter yes you do have to remove the tank. You don't have to drain it as the tank has two fuel taps to turn the fuel off. It takes about 40min to change the filter. The best advice is to follow the owners manual for removing the tank so you don't remove any bolts that are not required. You can change the pre-cleaner by just removing the front fairing that houses the turn indicators.

So does swapping the 19" wheel on to the R model for street riding throw the abs and TC all off....

I wouldn't bother, i have as much confidence throwing this into a tight turn fast as i did with a F650gs on the black top and even more off road..

As fast as a F650gs?.........sorry couldn't resist...

If I ride my Multi back to back with my SE...I really miss a real front tire....

So....is it possible?

hehe.. the engine doesn't have that much to do with the speed u can carry into and around a corner.. just exits and straights.. where u engage warp speed

But yes it would muck up the TC.. and a maybe on ABS, as well as your speedo

This looks sweet!! But how long do you expect the black to last on the plastics? Ive found in the past that paint tends to crack and come off on plastic.

Are you serious? painting plastic isn't something new.

What have you done with Tancakar?

It's called preperation. Something you need to do when you spraypaint any surface. The prep depends on the surface, plastic for example needs a primer to hold well.
Scotch-brite + plasticprimer and your paint won't chip or crack.

I just used PlastiDip.
Perfect for small areas and non-destructive.
I think it is some kind of latex based or something so it is flexible.
It's fairly heat-resistant as a buddy of mine used it on his exhaust guard with no issues.
All you need is to degrease the surface area properly and spray it on.
4 or 5 coats and you're all set.

I believe there's nothing painted in that pic, if you're referring at the headlight mask I think black is the original color in the standard adventure.

Even better