I moved the clip on the needle to the highest (first) slot and now my DR200SE runs much better. The exhaust is much cleaner. The idle is much crisper and doesn't die at stop lights. The engine still cuts out at around 50 mph but not much and not often. Now I'm worried that it might be too lean. What are the symptoms if it is too lean? What are the pitfalls of running too lean? Perhaps I should move the clip to the second slot. Thanks.
It could conceivably run too hot if it's too lean. Checking the mixture would involve reading the plug. It might be easier to just try the second slot.
I'm still trying to find its traction limits before I start comfortably pushing it into turns, and I'm starting with rear tire through aggressive downshifting and braking. But I'm noticing that when the rear slides, it hardly tracks straight and often kicks to one side...so I need to be careful. today, as I was turning (off a main road) to my apartment, I almost low sided it after the rear swung out to the right...easy now! I think I know when they'll wash, so I'll dial it back from here on the plus side - the OEM bridgestones weren't even scrubbed in by the previous owner; so riding on them more is definitely giving them more grip, which makes me more confident on the street and more able to push it into turns previous threads indicate that it doesn't wheelie at all - not true! I got 1st gear to ride about 15 feet today...with a little more practice I can likely get it close to the balance point and ride slow wheelies...then onto 2nd and 3rd!
I liked that rack, do you have more pics of it? a friend of mine has a single rack and says it had its subframe cracked. Want to install a tough one on my dr The passenger fits alright? thanx!
Hey guys do any of you know if there is a way to upgrade the rear shock in this littel bike so it can take a heavy rider and maybee lift the rear a little ??? Iv been looking around but im not quit shure what I should be looking for ? would the rear shock from the dr650 fit???
Most bang for your buck, I've found is upgrading the front suspension first. Hard to control a beast that wants to nose dive/snorkle. Purportedly, the rear shock has some funky angle which might replacement difficult. I've not tried this one, but it is the only aftermarket rear shock I am aware of. http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/.../dirtbikes.pdf
yeh I was thinking of adding a spacer to the front maybee a 1/2" or so ? gota start somewhere cause it nose dives bad when you downshift.
Hi: Apologies for the perhaps rarely asked odd question, but the exhaust pipe on the DR200SE is very close to the rider. Seems like the other bikes have the pipe farther out closer to the curve of the rear wheel. Does the proximity of the exhaust on the DR200SE get fumes on the back of clothes?
Not in the slightest. Not something to worry about. I'm running the stock muffler with a Kientech-modified nozzle. The muffler is cool enough with Kientech jet setup that I can put throw-over saddlebags directly on the muffler guard without melting them.
I wouldn't worry about the muffler... 1.) motorcycles (esp. carbureted) usually smell a little...plus being outside can make you smell a little bit from exposure to all the elements...there's just no way you're perfectly clean unless you're fully enclosed (like in cage). Being on a bike is about getting rid of that extra layer of metal so you can be out in the open... you'll just have to get used to it 2.) I don't know anything about design, but I imagine suzuki motorcycle designers setup the exhaust to be on the bike safely, without any harm to the rider. Whether it be heat, or the potentially cancerous exhaust fumes, I trust being on your bike is safe enough from an exhaust standpoint from the factory. I highly doubt any modification from yourself will do anything but make it louder. for the rear suspension guy - did you already increase the prelead on the rear shock? my bike's still new to me, but I did see a preload adjustment on the shock. I know it's theoretically *just* used to set the sag (the amount springs compress from full topped out to fully loaded) correctly, but in a real world rider can be used to set the rear higher for heavier riders and "stiffen up the rear" in my humble opinion - set the sag (and maybe swap out the springs to one with a higher spring rate) and be done with it. Suzuki (as with all motorcycle design) designed the suspension so that it compresses properly when bumps hit it from below, and so that it extends properly when you ride over drops in the road or when you're in the air...by swapping shocks from different bikes, you mess up all that design and potentially make the handling worse or just outright dangerous. Fact is, we're not smart enough how to make it "better". The only people that can, are suspension guys, and that will cost about $1,500 to do right...more than the bike is worth; and in the end you have a 13hp air cooled bike that still can't go...if you want more suspension, get a DRZ400!
more riding - this thing is such a fun urban adventure bike. It takes me everywhere the XR100 couldn't even touch...so now I use it on the way to the gym, to pickup milk, and even to drop off small amounts of laundry I live in Long Beach California where all the speeds are 40mph and below..which is *just* fast enough to pass cars, but not too slow where you can't open her up Finally got the wheel a little higher today (usually it's a 6"-1 foot off the ground...this time I started to shift the the center of gravity towards the rear) in 1st gear...for me all dirt bikes feel like wheelie machines, and this is no exception. I read online from a review magazine, that they felt the rear brake was either lockup or nothing, but I was able to actuate it a little bit. As a matter of fact, it only locked on pavement when really started to mash it. Scrubbing the tires is definitely giving it more traction, but I don't imagine it's going to help at all off-road... still need to change the petcock, oil, and maybe even consider getting bars without this weird enduro bend... 100 miles down...400 to go to start using more throttle!
I put a 2" lift on my bars it help a ton made it feel like a bigger bike and you dont have to change any of the cabels to do it .
After a fresh rebuild last fall my dr has been leaking oil from this hole. My mechanic says he has never seen this before and tried to find a cylinder to compare it to but could only find 125's. does anyone know why this hole is there? The bike runs great I'm just wanting to leave the trails oil free. Can I drill,tap, and plug the hole? What are your thoughts?
Is that the front of the cylinder ? if so that could be an extra boss for an accessory of some type to bolt to or maybe a spot to tap an oil galley running up to the top of the motor to oil the valves ? either way the metal separating the two has gotten a small hole in it and it would be smart to fix it if you can b4 the hole gets bigger.
Yes it is the front of the cylinder. The hole is a manufactured hole for sure as to who the manufacturer or person is that made it I don't know? I just wonder why its there and if it would be a problem if I plugged it. Thanks for your reply
well, I checked the front of my '99 200se and I have the hole too...but it doesn't leak I would honestly be more curious about why it's leaking; that would better answer if it's okay to plug if that's leaking internally - how is oil getting there? when the engine was rebuilt, was it bored out? was there supposed to be a metal wall backing to it that is now removed? if so, then plugging it is not the answer; you might need to re-sleeve it... but who knows - better to figure out why it's leaking first
I've been looking everywhere for a 41t sprocket and can not find one anywhere! is there any site that has them they you could put up a link of?
The whole is not thrue the cylinder wall or you would be haveing more problems than just leaking oil. I think it is going into the area for the push rods that operate the valves this would be an area for oil to drain back down to the crank case after lubricating the valve lifters. I would think in order to seal this the area would need cleaned and then maybee you could use PC7 epoxi or have it aluminum welded ? that I would leav up the mechanic or try and find a used cylinder .
