If your looking for torque just reheat it my buddy went 13-48 and its great can still ride the highway although we font much. I agree more informative numbers would be nice! But hey the bike out the door is only 5000 so what the heck dropping 800 and programmer header and can is nothing even if it just makes it go bbbrrraaappp!
You can make your own torque curve by multiplying the hp X 5252 and dividing by rpm. That gives torque in ft.-lbs. All the torque in the world won't move your bike a flippin mm. It's not until torque turns the wheel that it does work. Then it becomes hp.
on the 13-48 did he have to gt a new chain as well? - just a thought, your buddy should join in here too
Do not use these if you go off road. I've had 2 on my DRZ and they bend super easy. Both times I bent one it ruined my weekend ride, the second time I also burnt up my clutch as I was stuck in 3rd in a OHV park. I would carry the stock one as a spare with your tools if you do get one.
I just replaced the 2008 CRF 230L with a '13 250L! Alot bigger bike....it's TALL compared to the 230. I loved boting around town on it but way more torque on the 250...10 more MPG and very crisp throttle response due to the fuel injection (keihin) and the 4 vlaves. Motor is buttery smooth (counterbalancer and roller followers) as the 230 was old technology but extremely durable. I love this bike! So far... cu, Glenn.
Already ordering stuff before I even have the bike. Amazon (Motorcycle Superstore) has Neutec TUbliss 21/18 for $175.43, free shipping, subject to change at any time.
Ordered mine just a few minutes ago. I'm not expecting a Russell Day Long like my FJR has, but ANYTHING has to be better than the stock seat! My number one complaint about the bike.
Has anyone tried to finance one of these bikes? I know their only about $5K, but I just don't have that laying around LoL. Just curious what its like payment wise, insurance, etc. I know there are many factors that vary the equation in that question, but just trying to get a general idea. I love the look of the bike, and i think it would be a great upgrade from my 2006 XT225. I might just hold off and save for a few months, but I have a car loan from Honda so I thought that might make getting a bike loan easier.
Credit unions!!!! They have the best rates even if your credit isn't the greatest. I've never had a dealership ever beat my credit union's rate. BTW, bankrate.com has an auto loan payment calculator. Also, dmv.ca.gov has a registration fee calculator.
I put $1500 down and my payment is like $79 a month and insurance is something like $140ish a year. I save easily double that payment a month in gas by using it to commute. If you make the commitment to actually use it to go to and from work and run errands than the bike will work out being free :)
Auto loan. But many have a car loan, and then a motorcycle/rv/boat loan. Mine is just an auto loan. I've got a BRP right now but I'm looking at getting a 250L and I will finance it if I get it.
It isn't the firmness that gets me, it's sitting directly on your tailbone all the time. I'm not a big guy, 175lbs. It needs some extra width! I'd like to do some out of town exploring, but any more than 15-20 minutes on that orange 2x4 and I'm in pain. Good thing I can find gravel roads in about 10 minutes flat in any direction
