Can anyone describe to me the process of removing a bottom bracket freewheel [question mark] My trials bike is going to need one swapped out as soon as the new one gets here. I would like to think the failure was from my excessive manlyness, but more than likely, it was a manufacturing error.
Yeah. Buy wrench. Turn wrench. Easy! (or go take a gander at Park Tools' site. They have tutorials for about everything.) Hiya Ben. Wondering when you'd be by. M
I watched some of the Paris - Nice racing yesterday. Got distracted by Supercross, then backpacking gear.... Never saw the ending. :huh So much for my attention span. Started thinking about re-doing the decals on the Pinarello even though I don't the exact correct decals.
The only two things that have worked for me was taking the FW apart and using a pipe wrench. OR: using an impact wrench. This worked quite well but needed full power. For those wonder why you just can't "use a wrench": These are front freewheel setups that are REALLY cranked down due to the gearing of a trials bike and the power you can put into them for certain moves.
I have work on Bicycles for more than 25 years (as a Pro and just for fun) and I Never, Ever found the need to use a Impact wrench or any other kind of power tools on them for that matter (well drilling holes, Yes, but that is about it) On the Other hand "Persuasion" methods (leverage bars) are welcome, but first make sure you are spinning the right way first, since sometimes they are lefts hands treads (Bottom Brackets for example).
What Ricky said. I've been wrenching as long as he has. In other news:I'm working on re-doing an older Trek 3500 that I inherited yesterday. Fixing it up for Mom. If she rides it and enjoys it, I'll upgrade her to the Salsa Moto Ace we have hanging in the shop. If not, I'm not out any $$. Its been since Germany since she's ridden a bicycle. :eek1 I'm not sure what to expect. M
Fair enough.... The problem is taking a FW off of a crank arm is you don't have any leverage unless you want to stick it in a vice. I don't have that option. Have you ever taken a FW off of a trials bike crank? Either of you two? To get a FW off of a wheel of my budies Trials bike that was not a front freewheel bike we used a 4 ft. breaker bar. While one held the wheel the other STOOD on the bar. It barely got it off.
Sure I use to work at a shop in san francisco with a pretty serious core group of Urban/Trials rides and I have my Far share of freewheels/cranks story's, But nothing a Big strong vise with soft clamps (bronze plus a rag) mounted on a strong table will not cure. For sure they are difficult but not impossible, Actually a cool trick I developed when possible (for the Extractors with a Holes on the top, not the "Ratchet" types) was to "Connect" the extractor to the crank with a big bolt and a "Wing Nut" so you can apply full force with out the fear of the extractor getting disconnected and flying away with you "on top of it" Simple, stupid trick, but oh man it work so well
I wish I had a vice on a table bolted to the floor...... Some day. The bolt idea works wonders. Especially for the Suntour type FW's....
Oh Dude with out the Vise is almost Impossible, No wonder you need to resource to such "Violent" methods, Try to get one and at least clamp it to a piece of wood and then roll your car (even your bike) over one corner so it does not move Well get the Bolt, make it Tight and go to ToWn with it
The builder called this evening and after further thought, he seems to think the tensioner is what's causing the pop. The new freewheel is already on the way, so I'll get a crank puller and freewheel tool as soon as it shows up. We've only had the bike for a week, so hopefully shit wont be too tight.
Hey Ben: what exactly is it you're taking off this bike? The BB or the freewheel on the rear wheel? There's different things needed for each. Freewheel on the back's easy. Get the appropriate tool from Park. Stick said tool in a vise. Stick wheel on top of that (bolted ala Ricky if you have to) and spin lefty loosey to get the FW off. Make sure to push down on the wheel as you're spinning so the teeth on the tool stay into the grooves on the FW. BBs are different. M
I have been a mechanic for almost 20 years and in my my many years of working on things the most important thing I have learned is to work smarter, not harder. If a BB is seized into a frame, instead of grabbing the 4' breaker bar and getting 1 or 2 other people to steady the bike, I just grab the impact and zip it out. You need to be very careful because if you don't know which way to turn, you will fuck some shit up. The other thing I use a lot is heat. Usually just a little bit is enough to get the job done. The torx bolts on disc rotors can seize sometimes. I have an electric impact that I use to zip those out but with all the loctite manufactures are putting on there, sometimes that does not work. I take a lighter and hold it to the hub for about 5 or 10 seconds, just enough to warm it up, then bolt comes out like butter. I also use the electric impact on chainring bolts, that way there is no chance of catching my knuckles on the chainring when the bolt breaks loose. I also have an air powered cut off wheel. That thing makes quick work of any cutting job. There is no replacement for a hacksaw for cutting steerer tubes or handlebars (although I would like to get a sawsall for that) the cut off wheel makes quick work of any rough cutting job. The last power tool I use is a little electric screw driver. It makes zipping long fasteners in and out a breeze. I can swap a stem in about a minute, I run the bolts in until just barley tight and then put the torque wrench on them. I also made a bit that looks like a nipple driver. When building wheels I can go from a loosely spoked wheel to a fully tensioned wheel (and properly tensioned using a tensionmeter) and ready to ride in 5-10 minutes. Now with all of these power tools comes a lot of responsibility. You can ruin some expensive parts in seconds flat if you do not know what you are doing. I do not trust any of the kids at the shop to use any of these tools.
Here is what it is. The freewheel is mounted to the crankarm (usually threaded), they are usually VERY tight. Ricardo is right. If you have a good vice setup it is not that bad....
Cool set up, haven't see anything like that since Huffy or onee of the other department stores decided to put the freewheel in the front so you could shift while coasting. Those were just help on with a luck nut that doubled as a bearing race. Your posts were making me itch to play so I was hopping up some steps on the 29r but the lower back isn't healed enough and I gave out before I got over the top step. Saw some bikes that looked like possible dirt jump mtb's at a pawn shop last night, stopping by to see if any are worth while after work.
If I'm thinking this the way you're thinking it, you're gonna put the crankarm in the vise and pull on the FW tool? IF so, run a bolt thru the FW tool and snug it down. Keeps the FW tool from buggering up your FW's notches. (there's either 2 or 4. I'm betting on 4) DAMHIK how badly you can screw this up. M
