Show us your TransAlp modifications!

http://transalp.danyila.hu/lajos/haspancel/DSCF9810.JPG

http://transalp.danyila.hu/lajos/haspancel/DSCF9811.JPG

http://transalp.danyila.hu/lajos/haspancel/DSCF9776.JPG



6 mm aluminimu plate. Rivet 8mm aluminum

Couldn't get the links to show so I edited them. My TA plate is cracked and getting fugly. Need something Heavy like this.

You will need something (Clutch basket Tool, Pennys, Wood) to keep the basket from rotating to get the nut off but other than that its pretty easy. BTW, more often than not all you need for a slipping clutch are new clutch springs. If you are replacing them (as you should) its worth while to see if just those alone solves the slipping problem.

I put a new National Cycle windscreen on this evening and put new windscreen screws in (Since the originals were in rough shape). Problem is the darn things don't tighten down like they should. They just spin. I've tried grabbing the back with a par of needle-nose pliers but no luck. Think it's just cheap rubber that's not compressing to form a seal?? Or what??

Cheers!

I'm guessing these are what are called "well nuts". A flanged rubber tube with a brass threaded insert in one end. I had some that the threaded part turned in the rubber. I carefully used a little super glue on the metal part and quickly reinserted in the rubber. Worked good. Try to keep it straight, and check the threads on the screws. Or get new well nuts at a hardware store or bike shop.

Make sure the new screws are threaded all the way up, maybe you are running out of threads before it gets tight or they are too long?

The wellnut rubber end should be a very snug fit in the hole. I have to use a bit of ArmorAll to lube them up a bit before they will pop in.

If they just fall into the hole they are the wrong size

They also have to be long enough to allow the inside bit to deform slightly (like a rivet) to hold the screen tightly against the frame.

This is a very robust.

Updates of RR involving a TA at http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828973&page=5

Take a look?

My 1989 Transalp is leaking from front shock and boots are falling apart and has had quite a bit of sag in front end for awhile.
Getting ready to order some Progressive Springs.
Also getting some Honda Fork Seals and Dust Covers.
Question. What is a good fork boot to use? I put Daystar brand ones on my KLR650 and have been happy. Was wondering if anybody is using these and if so, what size. I have seen some sites say the size 58 is what is needed and others say size 69 is what is needed and Daystar website does not list what will fit this cycle. Any suggestions on what size or suggestion on another brand would be helpful (or a brand to avoid).

I am wondering if any special tools and/or equipement will be needed to do this.

Also, any help or suggestions here would be appreciated on how to perform this job.

hi been lurking for a while and reading up on what to do!

bought this 99 bike with 30,000miles, ex Police bike for £800


got 87 CR500 cartridge forks and RD03 swinger, plus '83 CR250 shocker, so it'll all happen slowly



managed to get a bit done today!


sold loads on ebay, fairing, bars, etc for over £300!!!!

so bought loads too


the transalp exhaust was rotten and i'd always planned for it to go, bit when i removed it actually broke off from the header!

especially pleased with the replacement titanium Gixxer pipe for £11.20 delivered! half the weight too at only 3kg

talking of weightloss i've actually taken 23.5kg off it!
but replacements for some parts only adding 3.8kg, but fairing and a new headlamp will add to this

got the CR forks/XR yokes in today, had to drill and tap some lock stops, but fairly straightforward.
Pleased to find the Transalp progressive springs were longer than the CR ones!
But removing the CR spacer makes em fit with a bit of preload. Trying 5w oil and 120mm air gap.
Oil removed was pretty clean for the age of the forks.


more next week and over chrimbo

As with any fork swap, you'll want to be certain that the front wheel/tire/fender does not compress so far that it contacts the triple clamp or the frame downtube or crashbars.

Remove the springs and raise the wheel until the fork stops going up...see if anything gets in the way of the tire.

thanks
ooops, had read about it and forgot too
i've ditched the crashbars so no probs there
the 87 CR500 forks are apparently same as later XR6 cartridge forks, so clearance should be ok:/

its going to have a one off fairing made (bodged) for a rally-alp look, eventually

I'm currently riding at around 2500-3000m and have noticed the lack of power (even worse when running high octane fuel) and I was wondered if anyone has tried any quick fixes to make it run better without messing around with re-jetting?

Another guy on a KLR650 has been riding along with me and the "altitude sickness" doesn't appear to affect the Kwakas as much. Maybe something to do with the vacuum type carb on the Transalp - not really sure......

It's okay to re-jet for long term use but I won't be riding at altitude all the time so I need another solution.

I'm going to be heading to higher altitude soon and was thinking of drilling some holes in the airbox (airfilter side) and sticking some rubber grommets in the holes and unplugging them when the bike starts to struggle for air.

Maybe someone on here has another idea or suggestion before I start making holes in the airbox?

Cheers
Dan

From my experience in trips to CO mountains ( 8k ft - 13k ft ) every summer for 30+ yrs. In the 70s and 80s on the old trials and enduro bikes, carbs required dropping the main jet size quite a bit. With the newer bikes with the CV (vacuum) carbs not so much. Each bike is different...KLX300 with CV carb needed a much smaller main jet. Don't remember exactly how much but was supprised how much it took. KLR with CV carb needed very little reduction, 150 to 148. DR350 with CV carb none. And really ran great. All had "opened" air boxes. XR650R with non CV carb went from 150 to 125 main. Don't know how much air box mod will help. You could lean idle fuel screw ( turn in ), might help idle but probably won't effect mid and high rpms much. Some people have reported no problems at altitude. I haven't had my TA up there yet ( next summer ), so I'm also interested to hear what jetting and mods the Colorado TA guys are running. If you're not getting knock or hot running, lower octain gas might help. Hard to tell with the alcohol blend gas we have now. Try to find non blend gas. Makes 3 to 5 mpg difference in my car. Not much way around some loss of power though, short of a turbo.

Have you checked your air filter lately, is it dirty? Rather than modifiy the air box you might try a less restricted air filter element. I'm not a big fan of K&N filters but that might help or better yet do the "Ladder" air filter mod that has been discussed in the past.

Without going into details you basically remove all the paper from the filter frame and replace it with a UNI filter or like I did replace it with the foam element from a NX125 filter. It will breath much easier.

The mod is not something that you can easily do, especially without a dremel tool but you only need to modify the filter frame once and then you have a washable foam filter.

See post 11484-11490 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16069437&highlight=nx125+filter#post16069437

This is my transalp by the way:
link: http://www.partireper.it/wp-content...msa-ufo-koso-scottoiler-leovince-metzeler.jpg

if you are looknig for second hand original transalp parts I have them listed onto this page:

http://www.partireper.it/ricambi-usati-honda-transalp/

Holy Hell, could that pic be any bigger!!

I had always heard the CV's weren't as finicky as normal carbs but I've never
been above 7000 feet to know the difference. Has the slide ever been drilled? Some people drill the slides with a slightly larger hole to aide in throttle response and performance. I wonder if too big of a hole may have been drilled that would cause the slide to not have enough vaccume to raise it?

From what I understood is Octane resists predetonation and helps high compression motors run cooler. So, I took some premium gas, 93 and a can of 87. Rode the XR with the cheap stuff, drained it and put in the good stuff then back to the cheap stuff. The bike ran better on the cheap stuff. If it had been a high compression motor, it could damage it but the XR and my '89 TA are far from that.

If it weren't such a pain to drain the TA tank, I'd try it on that bike too.

I haven't played with the mixture but think it is running quite lean already as I get around 50mpg with pillion and full luggage. Might be worth looking at though! I'm in South America at the moment so god knows what blend the TA is getting. When we rode through Colorado, I always used the lowest octane available - think it might have been 83/85 but seemed to run fine.

I'm not a fan of K&N either but I like the idea of the foam filter mod. I'll see if I can source the bits required and report back. Thanks for the link!

I've got a set of carbs from a '93 Transalp but I am using the vacuum sliders from the original '87 carb which are made of plastic instead of metal so maybe that has something to do with it. I don't think it has been modified apart from that though.