LED Auxiliary Lights

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by sanjoh, Aug 5, 2010.

  1. Sporri

    Sporri n00b

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    Is it possible to see video of how the ST dimmer works and strobe options ? anyone have it ?

    Thanks guys
    Regards from Iceland :D
  2. Y E T I

    Y E T I Unpossible

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    Just wanted to give some props for great customer service. I installed my lights last weekend and, let me tell you, they are BRIGHT. :eek1 Definitely a good idea to have the dimmer!


    Anyways, got on the bike to ride to work yesterday and . . . no LED's. :cry I emailed Sanjoh and got an immediate response, within 5 minutes, giving me a couple of things to look at and ways to troubleshoot different things. A few back and forths to confirm things, all with immediate responses. :bow


    Turns out: When I installed the switch, I connected the wires and then put the wiring inside split loom I have which goes back to my fuse block. I didn't leave enough slack and when I turned my bars to back into my garage when I got home, it pulled the connectors apart inside the split loom (where I couldn't see it).


    Needless to say, there's now a little more slack in the split loom and I taped together the connector for added insurance. All is good now!! :D
  3. sanjoh

    sanjoh Long timer

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    Here ya go

    and another
  4. Sporri

    Sporri n00b

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  5. Bokrijder

    Bokrijder Soyez sans que peur

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    There's plenty of room down there for the connection, but as you have discovered no room for your hands to accomplish the task. Bite the bullet and remove the headlight housing -- not a picnic, for sure. In fact a PITA. Not a bad skill set knowing how it comes apart, as it is near impossible to properly change a headlight bulb without disassembly. (small hands can do it with difficulty) I guess BMW thinks bulbs never fail.

    Bokrijder
  6. Jazz62

    Jazz62 Long timer

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    Yup, I've taken the thing apart when I installed my HID lowbeam set up. Pain in the ass but if I can do it, anyone can. Was just hoping to avoid it in the case of getting the highbeam bypass feature of this dimmer hooked up/
  7. sanjoh

    sanjoh Long timer

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    At the suggestion of a few inmates, we have added electrical connectors to our website. Thanks for the feedback.

    [​IMG]
  8. Rev

    Rev Asshole

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    my theory on 4 is that ill have 2 on the fairing facing always forward, and possibly 2 lower so i can have light while i turn, which is (for me) a needed thing, and the 2 lower would be facing a little out toward the sides of the road instead of just straight ahead. im not ever going to have heated gear or other random things aside from the GPS plug
  9. sanjoh

    sanjoh Long timer

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    After riding my Husky with our soon to be introduced drop in light (I have one model 60 in it) I am shocked. Can't imagine what 4 M60s would look like:D

    [​IMG]
  10. nashopolis

    nashopolis Been here awhile

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    So perhaps this has been answered a millions times - but this thread is looooong!

    I have a dr250 I'd like to add some lights tor visibility and better night time riding when I get away from the city and need some light on dark country roads.

    I'm new to trying to wire lights up On a bike- is there a tutorial on installing these lights?
    What am I going to need besides buying 2 lights, a switch and some mounts?

    Thanks
    pm me if you need my email
  11. m5guy

    m5guy Adventurer

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    Jazz62, you probably figured this out already, but using the horn wiring to trigger the full bright setting is not going to work. The high beam trigger wire needs a consistent 12V hot current to keep your Advmonster holding in the full bright setting. If you use the horn wire, your Adv lights will only go into the full bright for as long as you hold down the horn button. Not very convenient.
  12. Entrepre-neer

    Entrepre-neer Ultimate Tight A$$

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    Two 30W quad XM-L
    [​IMG]

    Stock 5W halogen city light
    [​IMG]

    Both 30W modules on
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    55W Halogen for comparison
    [​IMG]
  13. Jazz62

    Jazz62 Long timer

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    Oh that would special, wouldn't it? Thanks for the response. I did not bother trying it. I found that after removing my windshield and the silver gauge cover I could get just enough pressure from above and below to remove the highbeam rear cap. What I'm struggling with now is how to route the wire itself. It is very thin making it really tough to thread it through a piece of shrink tube of adequate length. It definitely needs some protection though as I'm going from my left handguard following an existing harness to the headstock and then need to route it forward to the back of the higheam housing. I'll figure it out just want to be careful it's not rubbing too much when I turn the bars.
  14. RoundOz

    RoundOz Plenty of seasoning

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    Use some thin stiff wire like electric fence wire or baling wire as a pull through. When running new wires through the body of the bike where I am afraid it will rub I use a cable like 2 or 3 core instead, assuming I will use the other core/s for something else later.
  15. Jazz62

    Jazz62 Long timer

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    That is a good idea. I ended up using a shorter length of heatshrink tube where the wire runs along an existing harness. That got me to the point where I had to route the wire around the front of the upper frame, near where the horn is. I needed more flexibility here than the shrink tube would allow but I still wanted to protect the wire from any possible chafing so I wrapped this section in electrical tape, a total of about 6".
  16. sanjoh

    sanjoh Long timer

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    If you are riding much in the city, I would recomend one of our LED controls with high beam bypass. Let's you set a dimmed setting to be seen, while having full power at a flip of your high beam switch. With a DRZ250 it will also reduce electrical consumption (at the dimmed setting). This important as your bike does not have a lot of watts available. If a LED Controller (high beam bypass models) is purchased with lights, it will come as a plug n play setup at no additional cost.

    You'll need connection to the power, preferrably fused.

    Mounts are included with the lights. PM your email address or contact me sandjoh@gmail.com if you have any questions
  17. SV_Dwayne

    SV_Dwayne Been here awhile

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    If I read the new KTM offering correctly, it has a high beam bypass option, right? In the pictures it also looks like you're using your ST dimmer... but on the ST dimmer webpage, I don't see anything about a high beam bypass. Does the ST dimmer have this feature? I only see two input and two output wires on the ST dimmer pictures, so I was assuming it doesn't do the bypass.
  18. sanjoh

    sanjoh Long timer

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    The ST dimmer does not have a high beam bypass. The new drop in light offerings are using the ST dimmer for low beam with an external relay for high beam. These are buried in the headlight mask so limited access, only to set the low beam output.
  19. SV_Dwayne

    SV_Dwayne Been here awhile

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    Thanks for clarifying! I'm very happy with the M1 so far, works great for the 6am commute. I'll have to get some nice shots when I have time and write a short review. I'm looking forward to upgrading the halogens on the strom to some LEDs. Any new products in the pipeline, something bigger than the 60 perhaps? Yeh, overkill maybe, but go big or go home, right? :rofl
  20. OneZero

    OneZero TGT of Opportunity

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    I ordered my Model 30 lights on Friday night and received them today (Monday)!! Now that is FAST! I can't wait to get them installed. Thanks John!

    Eric