How to remove ''Reduced Effect'' effects from my motorcycle?

I own a Kreidler Enduro 125 DD (Reduced Effect), I've heard that the Reduced Effect thing is like a kW/HP limiter, and it is used to limit power, so that the bike fits the corresponding countries limits.

And I am wondering about how can I take this limit off, or increase power, or however the power has been taken away from normal edition of the bike, as the engine, everything is exactly the same.

Otherwise my bike's top speed is capped at 90Km/h, and for my country it's too slow outside cities, almost everyone drives 10km/h over speed limit. I wouldn't be able to overtake anyone, if necessary. I usually only drive at countryside or in cities, but I could really use some extra power. I bought this bike as used, and I read that you can take the reduced effects off, but just don't know how.

Reduced effect - http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kreidler_enduro_125_dd_reduced_effect_2008.php

Normal - http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kreidler_enduro_125_dd_2008.php

Here's a forum site that you might find useful. It seems that the exhaust is restricted. It may say Kreidler on the tank, but the bike is made in China.

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?499-Exhaust-can-for-Qingqi-QM200GY-(aka-Qlink-etc)

Thanks, I know it's China, well many of worldwide production is being made in China. But as far as I know the engine is from a Suzuki. And overall it's not a bad bike at all, from what I can tell.

I have some weird issue with air delivery to carburetor, it has a single, unfiltered wire going at the opposite side of where the exhaust, in the area there, when I close it, bike RPM's go very steady, however when revving it starts stalling (with wire closed), but when open, the RPM's sometimes drop so low, that it just stalls by itself, especially after driving for a while and the stopping. Do you know what might be the solution.

Do you think that I can look in the exhaust for something that blocks the performance? Or I have to change the exhaust?
I am really almost experience-less with engines, bikes, everything on wheels really. Please help!

The exhaust probably has a catalytic converter in it, and maybe a restriction as well. The carburetor could have something in it that limits the throttle opening or there could be a restrictor between the carburetor and engine. I think you'll have to get some professional help here. See if there's an independently owned repair shop locally.

Do you think that might fix the stalling issue too? When I bought the bike the owner said that I have to leave the choke out at all times.

You have bigger problems, maybe a clogged idle jet. Get some help.

The bike was barely used, and it goes really good, just the thing that rpm's drop when idle, and it has something to do with the wire, as the RPM's get steady when I close it, however if I give it more gas it stalls...

The bike doesn't stall if I give it more gas when idle (without touching the wire). I don't think that anything is clogged.

It's some kind of power or air issue. Can you possibly find this bike's carburetor blue-prints? It would be useful, as I would know what exactly the fire is, it connects with carburetor, but what does it do and how it should look, I don't think that just unfiltered wire is how it should look.

What exactly do you mean by a wire closed, open and unfiltered?

I have a wire, a tube... coming from the bottom of the carburetor, and at the end of it there is nothing, I found it just laying next and under bike's seat.

When looking for a picture to post I found my carburetor with tube coming out just where my ''mysterious'' tube is coming from (that's the bottom)

That tube is the float bowl drain-there is a screw on the float bowl that lets gas drain out of this tube.This is normal.You probably have a partially plugged pilot jet-this happens more from lack of use/bike sitting with old gas.If you are not familiar with motorcycle repair find a good shop.If the bike is run at speed with plugged carb jets the engine can be damaged from running too lean.

Thank you for your answer!

Partially plugged pilot jet? What does that mean? And what do you mean sitting with old gas? You mean like... gasoline? Or gas, the one at the bottom of the carburetor?

Can I unplug those jets by myself? Though I'm not sure that's the case, the bike is running clean, but when used for a while, then randomly it sometimes is just starting to stall, give it some gas, it steadies, and sometimes it will start to stall again and sometimes not. It's not a constant issue, it's sometimes there, sometimes it's not.

With my logic and experience I can conclude this - The carburetor is sometimes exhausting the gas trough the tube, when idle, too fast pace, somehow interfering, disrupting normal carburetor operation. However if I put something at the end of the tube (piece of coarse cloth), to slow down the exhaustion of the gas, when Idle bike works perfect, however when revving, the cloth then interferes with the exhaustion process by blocking the gas, also disrupting carburetor operation.

Is it really normal that the tube is without any filters, just a tube?

If only there would be a filter, which blocks the gas when idle and lets it go when revving, actually this is a commonly used mechanism - as the flow increases the way opens up. I only need to know if this wouldn't harm the carburetor in a long term usage.

Also this could be very much related to bike being in ''reduced effect'' state. Blocking something in it's operations may cause reduced power and also cause some problems with stalling. Does anyone know precisely how the ''reduced effect'' feature is added. Because, as I mentioned before, majority of parts are the same as a ''normal edition'' bike, even the price. (just not for me, as I bought it used)

I still need help!

As to the jets - the previous poster meant the jet is dirty and needs to be cleaned. Cleaning the jets means, generally, taking the float bowl off the carb to gain access to the jets. The jets are what regulate the amount of fuel flowing through the carb and into the engine after being mixed with air. It is a fairly simple job to clean the jets but it requires some dis-assembly of the carb and good carb cleaner. Sometimes it requires some soaking of parts to remove the old fuel varnish that has accumulated inside the jet. Google motorcycle carb jet to get an idea of this.

Generally, a blocked carb jet will result in consistent engine behaviour at the same engine speed (RPM). The carb has more than one jet. Often there are 3 jets: idle, mid and large.

I don't understand much of what you are trying to describe above.

Seems you need to take the bike for assistance.

That "wire" is the overflow, as mentioned, it's actually a just a drain tube. If the engine running changes, if that is plugged vs. unplugged it tells me you have other passages in the carb that are probably plugged (the jets). Although, with the drain closed, plugged vs. unplugged shouldn't make a difference.

I am guessing if you just take it apart (carefully), clean everything (carefully) and put it back together (carefully) you may get it back to operating correctly.

The jets are very tiny holes in brass screw pieces in side the carb that get plugged with solidified fuel (especially if left sitting with modern fuels). Older fuel used to leave "varnish" deposits, modern stuff leaves a white snot shit that is just as if not nastier than the old varnish. You need to be careful with carbs as any ham-fisted repair attempts will fail with only expensive replacement parts as the cure.

You are on the right track wanting a carb "blueprint", you need to search for the carb's manual (which will probably end up being an exploded diagram).

If the picture you posted is really your carb, it's pretty simple. The biggest problem with these will be the soft brass screws getting damaged during removal. You need to have some decent screwdrivers to get them out in some cases.

Thanks to both of you, kirkkw & mjydrafter.

Even if I'm not sure that the problem is a clogged jet, cleaning the carburetor won't harm anybody, if done correctly.
Just I won't do it myself, as I am afraid that I might damage something. But for now the bike is at my country side, I assume that it's not very harmful if I'd still use it a little bit?

Also, just to be sure, you can adjust the fuel dosage with the jets, right? Maybe the main issue, the ''Reduced effect'' issue, was caused by carburetor, as I had to pull the choke fully out for the bike to be functional at idle.

Riders in the UK have reduced effect bikes (I think). Tiered licenses for riders under a certain age. When starting they are limited in the horsepower the bike can have.

DRZ400 is a popular model for this.
Often the throttle slide is limited from opening 100%. Or there might be a baffle or flap restricting the amount of air past the air filter.

google search "derestricting Kreidler " or "removing restriction Kreidler" Similar models probably use the same methods to limit the horsepower.

Goodluck!

Yuki, You are doing very well with a limited understanding of technical english but you need to realise that all your questions have been answered here, it is now up to you to understand the answers.

My suggestion is (as others have said) take the bike to someone who repairs motorcycles, it appears to be a very simple repair (clean the carbutettor, set it up properly and remove either a throttle and / or exhaust restrictor). should take 1 to 2 hours.

The engine is very simple and will be easy to fix.

Finding someone who can explain the technical language as they repair it will help you far more than repeating the same questions here.

I apologise if I appear rude, I don't mean to be and am simply trying to assist you in making some progress with the motorcycle.

If you wish to repair it yourself, remove the carburetor, pull it apart, clean everything and re-assemble it. Take photos as you do so you know how to put it back together.
Search for explanations in your language of how a petrol / gasoline engine operates, the same for carburation. Unfortunately technical terms in any language are very different to conversational language.

Hope you understand all that!

Regards, Iain.

Thanks for this! :) This narrows down the search significantly.

They are answered, now. It's just that I like to precise things that I am doing, before I start doing them. It's just that I need to know myself, where the restrictions are, because I doubt that many people will be familiar with restrictors for motorcycles in my country, as there are no restrictions.

And I just wasn't sure about the carburetor jets being the cause of the rpm issue, but it surely, as I mentioned before, won't harm cleaning them even if it isn't the cause of the problem.

You are not rude at all, you're very kind, and thank you.

If the bike won't idle without the choke pulled, then you DEFINATELY have either your primary jet clogged or one of the orifces in your carb is blocked. Nothing to do with "reduced effect", no maunfacturer would release something that can't idle on it's own.

That said, if you don't feel comfortable doing something like this on your own, call a friend with some mechanical experience and have a cooler with a few beverages of his preference ready. The next step is to stand back and WATCH, and ask a few questions when you don't know what or why he is doing something. That's how all of us have learned how to work on this stuff, it really takes someone showing you how to do it and not make a complete mess of things. And post some pics while you're at it, we all like to offer advice to other riders!

Thanks for clearing that up :)

I'll have a look at my carb's blueprints, couldn't find them yet. The carburetor is called Mikuni Japan T/A, that's all there is written on the carburetor, but from the looks of it, there is not really a blueprint needed, since it's so simple.