Put the Clarke tank on my bike, noticed that the tank is basically resting against the radiator fins on the side of the frame just below the dipstick hole...do I need to do anything there to keep the tank from melting, or is it fine resting there? There are no mounting instructions and I want to be sure. Also looking closely at the lip where the cap screws on, the plastic is full of tiny bubbles, chips, and defects, basically throughout the entire screw portion of the tank (not the cap). I guess it's not going to affect the tank at all, but you'd think they could mold plastic without leaving defects like that in there.
Hey Josh, Jaco Smith did a nice gallery of his install--you can see it here. https://picasaweb.google.com/116172590825728152094/Clark47Final?authuser=0&feat=directlink Your tank should have come with some foam pads; wrap them around the frame, and zip-tie them onto the frame. The tank will fit snugly with the foam, the single bolt, and using either the coat hanger (or homemade cross members) to hold the tank in the front. Your tank should not rest against the fins. (You do still have the Front Fuel Tank Rubbers, right? Part #17611-MG2-000. If so, the Clarke tank should be nice and snug.) I can't comment about the bubbles, &c. in the plastic moulding. My tank is very well made. PD
On the right side of the frame just below the dipstick is a black hunk of metal with fins on it sticking out. It looks for all the world like it's meant to radiate heat out and so cool the oil in the frame, which would mean it probably gets hot while riding. If it's something completely different, well, there's a reason I'm asking questions and not answering them.
Voltage regulator. as long as its not touching. even if you put a piece of rubber hose in between just so u dont have metal to plastic contact
Hey Josh, I have about a finger's width (1/2"??) of air space between the plastic Clarke tank and the fins. Personally, I have never experienced problems. On the other hand, ambient temperatures haven't been above 50ºF here in like 14 years, so I shouldn't comment. Many others have this same tank; I will defer to them. PD
Ok yeah found it's called a regulator/rectifier, for the electrical system, probably doesn't get that hot. Thanks for the answers anyways, forgive my ignorance, I had the day off and I've been drinking.
Speaking of the rectifier..a question for the electrical wizards: I want to try and relocate my rectifier, and because of this, also hopefully switch it out for a smaller one. Is there any way to determine the voltage bleed off of the stock XRL, to then find if (a smaller) one from another Honda can be subbed? BP
Last I checked, any identification of a cute blonde is not considered off-topic around here. Also, don't quite look like "anti-freeze size" to me. Then again, I live in New England.
Soooo, what is the collective wisdom on this modification (relocating and/or resizing the Regulator/Rectifier)? Especially considering the Shorai Battery Relocation, has this modification taken hold?? I get it that the rectifier changes the 3-phase AC signal into DC (the opposite of an inverter, right?), and the regulator ensures that the proper voltage gets sent to the battery for recharging. By installing a more efficient unit, would that simply reduce the amount of resistance sent to the Reg/Rec unit (thus both reducing heat discharge as well as making make more wattage available for other uses)? What I am wondering is whether a more efficient Reg/Rec would free up some wattage, to power some more heated gear. I know that somebody is going to pile onto me with a lecture about volts, watts, and amps. I am all ears--please instruct. PD
if your sensor is after the tank and after the oil cooler it should be lower than the tank when air is passing through
