I had the front end wash on me a few months back and mmHg boot got caught on the shifter. If I hadn't been wearing good MX boots it'd have broken my ankle backwards. Instead it drove my knee into the ground and tore a ligament. But if it wasn't angled up my foot wouldn't have even gotten caught. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
After checking mine over it actually looks a bit bent. I will check it over tonight and try and fix my problem myself. If I end up needing to shorten it I will get ahold of you. Thanks.
Are you riding along with your arch of your foot flopped over the footpeg? Or are you shifting and then putting the ball of your foot back on the peg? I could only get my foot caught in there if the arch is flopped over the peg. With my foot in the right place it doesn't even reach the shifter.
I typically ride with arches on the pegs, toe under the shifter when accelerating, over the shifter decelerating. I only place ball of foot on pegs when in a deep rut or large rocks. My racing days are long past but even then placement was slightly behind ball of foot.
Hey DR350 experts, Sorry to quote such an old post, but I've got a question for you all: I'm riding a '91 DR350S that has a 13/43 gearing. From what I understand, 14/43 is stock for this particular model. According to Gregory Bender's gearing calculator, I should be seeing 5700 rpm at 60 mph. However, I'm hitting an indicated 7k rpm at an indicated 50 mph. So... something is wrong or different! Has anyone had any trouble with their tach over-reporting or the speedo under-reporting? I know speedos generally have a large error, but not THIS large... The only other thing I can think of is that the clutch could be slipping at high speeds, but it feels pretty grabby when I accelerate. Could someone have changed out the gearing in the transmission itself? Ideas would be appreciated... Thanks! Kevin
Hi Kevin, To give credit where credit is due, that calculator is not mine (I just posted it on my website). Instead, it was created by Jim Randall. Sorry, I don't have much in the way of helpful input. The tach on my 1999 SE seems pretty close to what the calculator predicts. Regards, Gregory Bender
cuted the ktm grip about half an inch, and cuted the end guard brace but, still not exactly like i want them since their is interference between clutch cable and the hand guard brace. Info : cycra hand guard with pro motion mounts, it's not a direct fit for a dr350se 98 or at least use some Tusk Handguard Adaptor instead should be way better
Hmmm interesting, I'll have to check that out. I assume you're talking about the main battery... there's not a separate battery hidden in the instrument cluster?
An almost identical mirror (to the Ken Sean) is available from EMGO. Local shops around here have them on the wall. Mail order from Dennis Kirk and others.
I broke the main batteries negative terminal. Seems common as I have repaired this on my friends DR350 as well. Looks ok but it is cracked and gives intermittent battery grounding connections. My tach too was wacked when this was happening. Very noticeable erratic swings in the tach needle. Only did this for a short ride before I figured it out and fixed it.
Maybe the tach/gearing calculator isnt working for your bike because the final drive ratios are different(?) between the early years and the later years(?) not too sure about that but it may be the problem
Hi all, Are there any compatibility issues year to year with the bottom ends of the DR350? In other words, would I be able to take a case/transmission from an older bike and put it on my 99 DR350SE as long as the case came off an e-start bike? Thanks in advance for any replies.
Ok pumper carb is still giving me issues. It was running fine but still dieing at high rpm last week. Traced it back to my ghetto intake boot setup that came with the carb since it wasnt sealing. Called Jesse and problem solved with his "biscuit" and spacer. Got the carb in but now it won't start and when it does it dies if I touch the throttle. So... TM33 pumper 137 pilot (or whatever comes in a new tm33) 145 main 'cause I was chaing high rpm problems but it shouldnt effect starting) Fuel screw is 1.5 turns out. Idle air is just touching the pulley. Set like this it will start and idle 1/2 the time but that's all it'll do. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
no expert but sounds like you're not getting a transition to the higher speed circuit, which means the needle stuck in the seat, float stuck, or something in that part of the carb.
Thanks everyone, turns out my battery wasn't holding a charge after sitting in storage. A new battery fixed the tach issue and it reads out more reasonable values now!
The calculator bases everything off of a reading of indicated speed and indicated rpm from the creator of the calculator (ie. 5300 rpm in 6th at 60mph on a specific brand of tire). Everything else is a % of that single reading, so there is a great deal of variability that could be had. Use it as an approximation only, though most readings should be reasonably close (ie +/- 500rpm). There also appears to be one insignificant error - while the calculator deals with the primary ratio change, at least in comparison to my 95 SE the first gear ratio in the 94+ column is wrong. According to my manual it didn't change from the earlier bikes.
