Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Actually the Dr. D exhaust for the WRR/X has it also....

It should. Dr D makes the GYTR.

Welll....not hydrolocked. Just spun a bearing...that's my words, not theirs...Grant, Piston, Rod, the works...

Just picked it up...pix of the crank soon.

Nice. So it is ready to fire?

YES!!!

Placed an order last week for a new DID vr 520 chain and a renthal sprocket. Must have been a late night cause I thought I ordered a steel sprocket. Arrived today, and it is aluminum. Anyone have any words of wisdom on the Yamaha ultralight sprockets? Tempted to send it back, but planning on doing the work this week.

Best was 75mpg, worst was 40mpg. I plan around 50mpg/150miles per tank as I have the ims and its not let me down yet.

Hi All,

Plan to soon join your ranks and purchase a 2012 WR250R for trail/adventure riding. Home base is the Toronto area.

I'm looking for a dealer and am not in a rush to purchase anytime before spring. That said, I'll move on a good deal quickly.

Any recommendations on how to secure the best deal? Any dealer recommendations in the GTA?

Thanks in advance!

at 65 the stocker is too loud!

Not much experience but on the CDR last month, never below about 55mpg with my weak right wrist...

The absolute best was 64mpg and that was 40-60mph dirt farm roads on the CDR about 7000' average altitude, but ranging into the elevens. Most fuel loads I was pretty close to 60mpg slabbing or not. I had enough gas capacity that after the big empty, I didn't pay much attention.

I'm not sure what you mean by Yamaha ultralight (are they selling a GYTR sprocket?) but I've always used Renthal aluminum sprockets on my dirt bikes and they wear very well. I've yet to wear one out though the one on my '99 is showing a little wear.

I know these bikes put a lot more miles on than most dirt bikes, but I'd be tempted to go with it. I don't see reports here of the steel sprockets lasting all that long either (OK advriders, prove me wrong...)

While the global economy isn't on the shitter yet, its walking towards the bathroom. . Call around and let them know you are a cash buyer.....then watch the prices drop.

-sm

The renthal sprocket in question is labeled ultralight. Not sure what that means, though it is much lighter than the stock steel sprockets I have felt. See here:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=renthal+465u-520-45gpsi&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.,cf.osb&biw=1920&bih=979&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=526556628459840726&sa=X&ei=WgmVTuG4JoP0sQKJ96XvAQ&ved=0CEoQ8wIwAA

Ah. Look here as well: http://www.renthal.com/File/chainwheels.asp

the Ultralight is their basic offroad rear sprocket. Good quality, but probably not the best option for a dualsport. The hard ano or twin ring would wear better, but I suspect you'll be happy with what you've got. Worst case, you get a few thousand miles out of it and replace it

I have the Yoshimura pipe; love the power increase but it may be a little loud for in town when the revs are up. At 100km/hr, who cares? I've heard a WRR with a FMF and I would say they are close to the same noise level.

anyone have the FMF mega bomb header on there WR^2?

Yes, it works fine, but I'm not really sure if it has any benefit over stock or power bomb. It doesn't have any fitment problems or heat problems (for me at least).

I use the Giantloop heat shield and save enough weight to pack more beer YMMV

Hi,

I've been lurking on this thread for a while, and I'm sure I've forgotten more than I've retained.

Two WR250R's are for sale in my neck of the woods one with 9,000 miles, and one with 10,000 miles. Both look basically stock. The 9,000m has Knobby tires, and the 10,000m has street oriented tires both have stock exhaust and no skid plates.

Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on what a high mile bike is worth, or should I stay away. My preference is for something with lower miles, but I might give one of these a look.

How much maintenance would be required at 10,000 miles, bearings, brakes, valves, general engine concerns, etc.

Your opinions are valued.
Thanks

86 XR250R
89 NX250

Trying to remember what I had to do to mine at 10k miles...


Oh right, nothing as usual.

You've got another 16,000 miles till the first valve check/adjustment. I'd change the fluids just because then continue riding the piss out of it. If you're feeling froggy grease the suspension if the previous owner hasn't and maybe do the head bearings (mine were fine at 17k when I finally had them done).

Mine's got 29,9xx miles as of this morning's commute and has only not started once when I had a spark plug break and only has had the valve cover off once, at 25000 miles to do the valves. Rest has been oil changes, 2 coolant changes (1x per year), flushed brake fluid last year, had the suspension rebuilt once at ~17k just to do it, grease the suspension in the spring and the fall (I ride year round, haven't had a car since 2009 until a few weeks ago). Its on its second replacement chain and sprocket set, second set of brake pads (originals replaced at 25k-ish miles but were still serviceable) third chain slider, and I think 8th set of tires. I want to replace the radiator hoses this winter as they stockers are starting to look old and bulgy in places, but it is a 2008 that I bought new in January '10 so they're getting old. I'll probably do the battery too finally.

Value? I had some nibbles when I was thinking about selling mine earlier this spring for around $3000 with significantly more miles, so I'd wager around $3500 would be about right for a clean, well maintained, mostly street ridden bike with 9-10k on the clock, stock or not.