Somebody told me you could get a pretty complete set for around 100 bucks or so but in my experience you always seem to need at least a couple that are the same size. That is why it is so nice the dealers will swap em out. I guess there is also a chance they might not have a particular size but I have never yet had that happen. I found a brand new still in the plastic shrink wrap Pro Moto Billet rear rack for mine on e-bay several years back for only 50 bucks. And there are some nice soft bags (I think they were called Dirt Bagz? or something close to that) that fit up on a buddies WR and also KTM's real nice. Never did get a set though.
There many be tolerance differences between the stock and Pro X shims, but that's not a big deal. I have a Hotcams shim kit. One of the shims was a couple thousandths wider than the others and it would not fit in the valve so I threw it out. Even if you have to throw a couple out, it's still a lot cheaper to go aftermarket. One problem I've had with stock and aftermarket shims is the marked size is not always 100% accurate. I bought the shim kit because I got tired of buying a shim, getting home, measuring it and finding out it's not what was marked on it. If you don't get an entire shim kit then you should bring your calipers with you to the dealership to make sure you're getting the size you want.
That sucks! I have spent quite a few bucks in that shop over the years and have even ridden with the owners on occasion so that probably does account for something.
Missed that question about the valves. Yes, as LILBIT stated they should be closed and I imagine the leakdown test would work fine with the cams out as the valves still have their springs on, although since it has been sitting a while you will not have much oil up around the piston and rings which might allow it to leak down a little bit faster.
Must have been in a daze with my last post (too early in the AM!). You NEED to have the cam in and operational for a leak down test because you have to ba able to have the cylinder able to "breathe" in order to perform it. It the valves are not moving to allow it to pressurize as it sucks in you cannot do a leak down check correctly.
?? A leakdown test is done by adding compressed air into the cylinder through a regulator, and measuring the amount of air lost past rings or valves with a pair of gauges and a restriction... The valves stay closed during a leakdown test. And could be done without the cams installed. A compression test on the other hand would require the valve train to be operational as you stated... As it uses a guage screwed into the spark plug to measure how much air pressure the engine produces when being cranked over. 2 different tests.
With mine, which is jetted too rich and I'm still working on it. About 44 MPG on a run of mostly road type conditions.
Yeah, about that. Usually around 60 or so on open back country roads. I have to ride those to get to the trails around my place since the USFS has seen fit to close hundreds of miles of trails and roads.
I don't think so. There is an aftermarket that claims to be better than stock, but I couldn't read anything positive about them. So, when I rebuilt mine, I just went with a stock one.
Are you going to replace the headlight with those LED units? I have a plan to go all LED so I don't have to rewind the stator. So far so good. I just have to deal with the whole AC to DC thing. The new generation LEDs are really bright and draw so little electricity they truly amazing.
I have a yz 426 and I have re-built it about four or five times There is no much I havent broken or replaced on these things over the last few years so I can help any time if your in trouble check out the following links http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=640587 go to post number 5 this will make starting and low end throttle response awsome but you may have to change to an 01 zy 426 carb because the linkage system on the earlier wr 400's is a little different there are heaps of these older kehin carbs on ebay in the states I got one for another bike for less then $100 bucks shipped to australia and the shipping is usually around the $35 mark http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=632305&page=4 I am about to put a wr gearbox into my yz and this will make out bikes very similar except for the 400cc Vs 426cc. There are a heap of guys putting DC lighting systems on the AC bikes so they can run HID lights for some of the 24Hour enduros down here and they work a treat ony problem is you cant go crazy on loading them up power wise they working realy well and quite reliable. I have a spare stator which I am planning to do the same mod to as well you have to change the reg and add a battery or capacitor have had to much on the go to look at this job though. Shims! never take what they say they are for granted its a bit easier for us cos were metric and the numbers on the shim's are metric but for you guys who have to do a conversion on the number's forget it just buy a hot cams pack and measure everthing in metric or imperial I know of a few guys who have got their conversions wrong and had bikes worse than when they started. ie mic the shim and gauge the gap in the bucket and cam and work it out. Here is a picture of my rally setup 11 litres on the back and 13 on the front looks a bit funny but it tracks really well and screams in the desert. Gearing I was running a 15 fron 45 rear and this proved too much for the poor fifth gear and it finally gave up this was too much. I will experiment with the new wr gearbox and let you know how I go I love this bike and have considered dropping it down to a 400 but it means a new crank, rod, barrel, piston and I have only got 53 hours on all of these brand new items so mabey in the future. Next time it blows up in a horiffic manner like last time. (120kph and valves broke off while on rev limiter) Dont give up on the old girl they are good bikes Cheers
i have dunlops 606 in my wr 400. If you ride dirt and paved roads then it is a good choice but if yiu only ride dirt forget it. You will loose grip with those things. I hit the ground hard in baja on d606 so i have experience. My bike has a comp cam, 48 sprocket and I've hit 100mph and it was not top speed. I think it will do 102 to 105.
After talking to a few top mechanic's, alot will tell you to not drain bowl before storage. The jury is out and of all of my friends in the trade it is about 50/50 about draining bowl. some do some don't. The best explination I have been given by an ex aussie factory team mechanic is as follows. Leave bowl full of fuel untill just before use. The two reasons you drain are because the fuel goes off ie (benzines and tolulines evaporate off from the fuel rendering it unburnable) and condensation (water in the fuel) The down side of the bowl being dry is the rubbers and plastics perish due to no lubrication by the fuel. Requiring more frequent rebuilds. I never drain my bowl unless im working on the carb. Always drain it after long storage periods just before a ride otherwise never touch it unles it doesn't start after the second or third kick. I always drain from the 17mm nut not the drain tube. A bit sceptical on the whole draining voodoo
I agree with marios on the 606's. I ran and still run soft compound tires mostly cause they ALWAYS work in ALL conditions. I put on some 606's and although I got GREAT mileage out of them they were more than a little scary when you crossed a stream or riding in the wet and had to climb rocks with the tires still wet. THEN they pretty well lose about 75% of their traction...... But soft tires will go away fast on the asphalt. I try to drain the bowls if the bike will be stored for more than a few weeks. Have tried it both ways but found if the fuel is left in there it will clog the idle circuit at the pilot jet as it evaporates out of the carb. I think it must evaporate through the jet as it makes a little hard plug in the jet that is solid as a rock. If I drain it I never seem to have this problem though. Yamahaman, You are right, the pipe installatin makes it look a little funny but who cares when you can carry all that extra fuel! Also what are you carrying in that skid pan/tank?
