The Africa Twin XRV650 & XRV750 thread

Now that is sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet - amazing how current this looks for being at least 20 years old.

GP - you need a gallery to share all of your creations over the years

I like it. Smooth and flowing.

i love your job GPMucci !!

+1

That is awesome. You should start your own thread only with your AT and TA conversions! Do you have a homepage with more pics of your bikes?

+1
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Hi, I see you have use showa/kayaba/ forks..what have you done with steering stem?
I bought showa forks from RMZ 450 2008 and I have to say it's kinda tricky to do all measurments precisely...
Do you have any sketch or drawing for that or anybody else?pleeeeease?
I 've done drawing in Autocad, so I can get it machined, I just wanna make sure that it is correct and I will not have to do it again...simply I need to compare it with somebodys else drawing...
Thank you very much for any reply

Can I get some feedback on the use of a Scott Oiler. Does it help with the life of the output shaft?

My belief is that output shaft wear is directly related to chain tension. And, to be on the safe side I'm only using Honda CS sprockets. I have no way to test the hardness (Rockwell number) of the "hardened" aftermarket sprockets so I'm hoping that Honda is smart enough to have made their CS sprockets just a bit softer than the shaft. No way to tell with the others.

I think that's the best you can do other than just keeping your eye on it.


On chain oilers:

I built my own (cheap) version chain oiler and after 2 years of use I think I can provide some information.

When compared to my son's Transalp ridden in almost identical conditions my conclusions are:

Chain oilers do NOT significantly improve the life of a high quality X-ring chain as long as reasonable lubing and care is taken of the chain.

Where the chain oiler did make a significant different is in the wear of the sprockets. My CS sprocket lasted about 1.5 times as long as the manually lubed bike. My rear sprocket still looks almost new after 2 chains.

The disadvantage.....the chain oiler makes more of a mess. You'll get lube splatters on your spokes, rear tire and rim and a bit more goo around the CS sprocket. This is not a problem and it easily wipes off with a rag. It does help to preserve the finish of the rear spokes. It's also nice to just reach down and turn the oiler on after a dusty gravel road rather than fooling around with spray bottles and cans of lube at fuel stops.

I see you're in my old stomping ground, Eric. I miss the Phoenix Park... and my Africa Twin :-(

Thanks to the steering stem manufactured by Rugged Roads, I was able to convert the original forks to KTM USD. Result:






What needs to be done:

The rear rim wil be converted to a silver 18" next week.
The front fender. I prefer a low fender so if any off you have any suggestion to solve this.

Simon

Ciao, usually I build up another axle. Those are wp.

Yes GPR trioval...

Here some pictures of the transalp

Yes, I will have to make new one as well..if it's wp than you can't help apparently, but thanks

My conversion from 2007

I wish I saw it before I bought the forks, because mine comes from RMZ 450, so it's different:
Stem is shorter(6mm) and bigger in diameter. Beacuse it's shorter I will have to get machined a new one.
I've done drawing for machinist, but I'm not 100% sure...I was wondering if somebody else have any drawing too, so I can compare it and make myself sure about the sketch....
But thank you ;-)

atgreg: by the way is that 320mm brake disc? How it works with only one brake calliper? is it weaker or same as a stock two discs brakes? cheers

One question regarding the KTM WP conversion. I have trouble finding a KTM front fork from any enduro/cross model, but on ebay there are loads of KTM Duke front forks. Are they shorter than enduro ones ? Can they be used with 21" enduro wheels without problems ?

Probably a bit weaker, I find it fine on the tar and dirt