I got my lights (1 model 30 and 1 model 44)! They look really nice and well put together. I also bench tested them and they do put out a fair bit of light. Now I just need to get them mounted along with the voltage meter I got. Hopefully that is soon although the test ride will have to wait until spring Thanks Dave!
I'm going to get two 44's in addition to the two 30's. 7k lumens for less than 300$. Going to male a rally style tower for the lights, vapor and switches. Pics will follow at some point.
Hi John, Sent you an email a while back asking for install info for my 2010 RT. I was thinking of mounting them low on the forks or fender but I'm not so sure I have enough wire from the lights to make it. I'm thinking of mounting them on ezymounts under the nose/headlight area. I'm almost positive there's not enough wire to make it to a fuse block under the seat.. That would've been my first choice...
Has anyone tried or does anyone know if you can simply put a resistor in line to dim the model 44 lights. I purchased and installed a pair on my XR650L and so far have them wired solely to the high beam power on my headlight. I love the extra light I am getting, but would like to run them at reduced power with my low beam also. The remote control dimmer would work, but the extra dimming functionality is not really necessary for me. If a resistor would work, what size do I need to buy?
Hey Mrfixit, Due to the design of the lights I can not recommend reducing light output by varying input voltage. One of the great features of the Remote Dimmer with High Beam Bypass is the fact that (because of the "last setting" memory function) you can pretty much set it and forget it if need be. Simply find the low output setting that works for you with the dimmer and hook the High Beam bypass lead to the high beam switch on the bike. Once setup the LED will have a low/high function that will work in conjunction with the low/high switch on the bike. If that doesn't work for you there is always a manual PWM (pulse width modulator) but waterproofing them has proven to be a bit problematic. Cheers, Dave
I liked the spots so much on my WR I ordered a set for the ST. Originally mounted them aimed way too high. I could see where the neighbor replaced some shingles, his house was 100-120 meters away. Re-aimed the left one to point just left and below the low beam cut off and the right one aimed a bit higher but pointed outside, looking for deer lights (eyes). D
Spot Beam 10watt / .85amp ~450 lumens total from 3 leds, 12v Flood Beam 24 watt / 2amp ~1500 lumens total from 9leds (3 groups of 3), 12v I ordered a set each of these a few months ago and was really inpressed by the performance. Mounted the two pairs on an Africa Twin and does it light up the road and anything else lurking on the fringes!!! Need to order another set of each but can't find the spots (10w), are they still availble??? Thanks Frank
I'm real close to pulling the trigger on a set of 44s'... for my '01 Honda ST1100. Trying to decide where to mount them and what else i may need...
You can check what I did here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=15832774&highlight=st1100#post15832774 I used the Dick Seng under mirror mount. But I am sure I could have made my own brackets if I got off my ass and scrounged around in the garage.
You will need some connectors or solder n shrink tube, a way to turn them on n off The dimmer with high beam bypass helps you get the most out of the lights, providing a be seen setting and a SEE setting
Thanks Sanjoh...like many others...I like your products can't wait til the end of the month when I get paid Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk
Sanjoh, these lights look great, couple of questions: 1. can I mount them to my forks using this http://www.dualsportwarehouse.com/CJ-DESIGNS-KTM-60MM-FORK-LIGHT-MOUNT-BLANK-VERSION-FM-60-B.htm 2. what are my switch options? I'm sorry if this was covered before, there are many pages to read through! Thanks in advance
Hey jnyrav, Yes, those mounts will work fine. There are a few options for switches: 1)You may use a push button switch such as the waterproof switch we offer on our site or other type of weatherproof/waterproof switch that is separate from the main harness. 2) You can wire the lights to the high beam switch on the bike which will turn the lights on any time you hit the high beams. Both of these choices will give a simple on/off solution but they do limit when and where you use the lights. Remember that these lights are very,very bright so running them at full blast when traffic is present will blind other drivers. This brings us to one other switch solution. 3) An LED dimmer. We offer a Waterproof LED Dimmer with High Beam bypass that allows you to increase/decrease the lights from 0-100%. It also allows you to go from your preset "dimmed" output to full power by simply clicking on your high beams or separate external switch. It also remembers your last setting so that there is no need to reset the dimmer each time you turn your bike off and on.
Hi Sanjoh, Sorry I missed seeing you at the rally. I did not know that was you or I would have stopped by. Since I already have your lights I figured the guy in that big rig was probably selling them for too much money. and since I already have my source Anyway my lights are doing just fine. Thanks
