Lobsters to Llamas, Maritimes to Argentina

Chris

Tunco was the best advice you could have given me


Thanks so much for all the excellent info

Dwight

Hello from San Juan del Sur Nicaragua. Had the throttle twisted hard a lot today to get here. Spent about 2.5 hours at the border and still made 500kms on some pretty bombed out roads. Got here just in time to see the sunset.

This is a beautiful little beach town.

Will report more later, Gotta find something to eat.

Kedgi

Dwight: I am following your report as I enter Ecuador. I was very pleased to read that you set those two "helpers" straight in the Honduras crossing. It is likely that they were the two that did in fact rip me off. I made the mistake of arriving at the border late in the day, tired, hungry and pissed off at the potholes. Glad to see you took the bull by the horns. Keep heading south: it only gets better and better...

I guess I was still bitter about the Mexican/Gaut thing. As soon as they tried the same trick, I called their bluff. My helpers today weren't bad, I'm sure they made a few bucks off me but it was OK, pretty fast crossing if you can call 2.5 hours fast. I hit the border at 8am this time. I was well rest6ed and it was a little bit cooler.

Glad you're reading and contributing

Kedgi

Are planning on stopping in CR at all?

NB: Brace yourself for some strong cross winds again when you get back on the road today. It will get better once you pass Liberia.

Ride safe!

It is windy here this morning, just leaving now for a long day. May stop for the night in southern Costa Rica but I really have to boogie to make the Steel Rat. Not a problem just two long days.

Yesterday I rode from East to West in Nicarauga in 20kms. That was pretty cool!

Kedgi

Made frustratingly slow progress today in spite of my best efforts. 4.5 hours at the border crossing into Costa Rica. What a system! The Nicaraguan side was easy but this side was just about a complicated as any one could ever make it.

First you wait in line behind 120 tourists off tour busses waiting to get there passposts stamped at 7:30 am. The had two officers that were overwhelmed. I counted that every ten minute they would let 15 more tourists in to get their stamp. I was 100 minutes in that line, then do you think I could find the slip of paper he wanted in the stack of paperwork and copies I have. No way! It is just a small form like you fill out as a declaration like you do on an aircraft between Canada and the USA. My helpers on the Nicaraguan side had a copy and I had filled it out....GONE. Either they didn't give it back to me in the flurry of copies, stamps, permits etc on that side or I misplaced it or dropped it...but I didn't have it. That meant, get another copy, go to the bike , get glasses, a pen, fill it out again. Go to back of new line of 15 people wait a extra ten minute for a form he glanced at and through on a huge pile. Finally after an hour and a half I had a migration stamp. (It usually takes 5 minutes anywhere else)

Then Aduana. more copies, title, licence, passport, stamp on a permit must be copied, stamp in passport, must be copied, of course the copie place is half a mile away, Then back, permit stamped, of course now you need a copy of that to take to the mandatory insure building which is convieniently located in the back of a trucking yard hal a mile away and marked. Tourista Police so you rule it out the first couple times you go by. Then you get insurance and you guessed it, you need a copy of that to take back where you started at aduana. Did I mention it 90 degrees and 90 percent humidity and you're of course wearing full motorcycle gear. Then aduana stamps the form and you need to go back to insurance to get a permit. They give you a slip to give to the guy at the exit, which is of course NOT the road MARKED Salida/Exit When you find the guy he takes the slip. You wait behind 20 trucks after that to show yet another guy you have a passport, insurance and a licence. WTF! Torture!

So after a 12 hour day I made 340kms. San Jose 4pm traffic makes Vancouver, Summer Long weekend traffic look like day- care. I'm safe. That's what counts

WTF is wrong with those people?

As the Tico's use the phrase "Pura Vida" for everything, you need to learn and live the word "tranquilo" which means to be tranquil, relax, go with the flow. This is how they operate, they will never change. It's hard to teach an old dog new tricks.

Are you going to exit Costa Rica using the Sabalito exit again. It's still fast and easy. Just remember that it's closed on Saturday and Sunday.

Continued safe riding,

It'll all make for a great story with your mates over a pop or two. You're gettin' it done dude!!

Santiago Panama was a far as I could make it today thanks to the good people at the Panamanian border. I maet another advrider in Tulco a few days ago, and we just happened to arrive at the Panama border at the same time today. His name is Boris. Nice guy! We rode all afternoon and into the night together and stopped here in Santiago in the interst of safety. Crazy ride until about 8:30PM trying to make Panama City. Stopped when we could ride no longer.

Adventure is what we wanted, we got it today

More later

Kedgi

Whoever threw the stars on my report....Thanks

Kedgi

I really hope I don't come across as sounding that way. The Central American Countries can do as they please.

having said that. I can't fathom the waste of resources and money that going on. Riding through Gautemala on my way to El Salvador's border there were at least 12 kms of trucks waiting in line. The drivers sleep in hammocks under their trailers.

I used to dispatch trucks. That wasted time costs money, big money to the shipper and ultimately to the consumer. It drives up prices. It discourages companies from doing business here and it in the end costs these countries economies millions and millions of dollars. It lowers their standard of living.

Honduras is a perfect example of an economy almost on the rocks. It's a shame, and yet it continues and according to experienced border crossers I spoke it gets worse and worse.

There must be a reason for it. I don't know what it is. The process is absolutely mystifying! How it can take hours on end to process two motorcyclists who only want to come to your country, visit and spend hard foreign capital the country desperately needs is amazing. Monty Python could not dream up what you go through. I know enough to keep smiling all the way through, but it astounds me that such a cluster exists.

I hope they will all learn the Costa Rica has seen the light and is getting rich off tourists as a result. From what I've seen I think El Salvador will be the next to bloom. Costa Rica has not streamlined the road crossings like they have the airports. It was one of the toughest borders at least for me.

I love riding down here but the borders would discourage me from doing it again.

I would stick to Mexico on another trip.

Just my humble opinion.

I believe in that and I normally say "It's all good" I will point out however that I rode the wheels off the bike for three long days to make it 1500k to Panama City to meet the Steel Rat and inspite of a 15.5 hour day today and over a 12 hour ride yesterday and the day before, could not make it in time for my reservation. Hours and hours and hours of what amounts to wasted time at borders when I could have been riding, spending money these countries need, telling people how wonderful it is, but instead, they succeeded in frustrating me to the point I just won't likely come back. Who wins?

Boris and I met a couple today on a bike starting north. They asked us how we liked Costa Rica. Our honest answer was, "Never Saw it" had to absolutely blast through at warp speed to try and make up for time we wasted at the border. (please note we were travelling separably and both had the same experience)

In the end It's all good. Doesn't matter to me. I'm here. I'm safe and sound and I am going to find a way to SA inspite of a missed reservation.

Just my humble opinion

Awesome read! Sorry about your pops.

Too bad the border delays caused you to rush. Getting from Santiago to the dock by loading time tomorrow would be quite a feat. At least now the trip can get back to a more enjoyable pace. I feel for you man.
Thanks for sharing the highs and lows of your trip (I'm soaking it all in prepping for my turn next year)

Keep it between the lines

Hey Kedgi,

Still following along in Nova Scotia! Sorry that you missed your reservation with the Stahlratte, but as I was told, its not an adventure until something goes wrong. Maybe take some time while searching for a new way across the Darien to check out some of the local riding and sights.

My only question is about your timeline. Other than making the reservation for the boat - are you on a limited timeline? It seems like you're rushing through some of the most amazing scenery in Central America. (At least to me). Do you have to be back home in a certain amount of time?

Keep the rubber side down, and the dirty side up. Have fun.

C

Thanks Guys.

I am relieved not to be under time pressure now. No worries, Boris and I will work it out. We lost an hour, time zone wise last night too so were just getting ready to boogie and check flights and a place to stay. I'll talk more later but thanks for your thoughtful words.

Kedgi

Dwight:

I'm also sorry you missed your boat. I also don't understand how complicated border crossings should be. It does seem like they don't realize that they should be welcoming you to spend your money, rather than put all these hoops and hurdles to make it more difficult.

Can you imagine if they did this on our own CDN/US border, having to obtain a TVIP for your vehicle, and then having to cancel it when you exit, and also not having their own photocopy machine. I just don't understand it either.

I would be frustrated too . . .

I hope you can relax now and go your own pace

bob