Costa Rica: Trippin' with GR

I was up late finishing an oil change and you know, the late-night buzz before a ride. I cannot imagine what it would be like the night before embarking on a ride much longer… like a week maybe…


0600: Ready.


0625: Waiting.

An artsy shot of the weeds in front of my garage.


By 0630 I was antsy and could not wait any more. I shot Mr. Juanca a SMS and left. By the time I reached the gas station in town to top off, I had gotten a call back. So we agreed to meet on the way out of town. I wait.


0744: Meet Juan Carlos. 550 Kms of seat time and counting.


Now the show is on the road.






High above the clouds peering into the Caribbean lowlands. If you are eating a banana as you read this, it is likely from down there.



Rednecks… they are everywhere.


In route to the missing bridge.


We eventually cross paths with a young man playing gatekeeper at the top of the hill. He was playing hardball saying there is no way we can go through. It is only open from 1200-1300, blah, blah, blah. I politely requested to see and speak with his boss. The boy told me the boss was at the bottom of the hill. I must go find him.

He must be down here somewhere.


We never did find the boss, but bumped into these two peddlers. They were cool :stoned.


I pushed to cross, but Juanca wasn’t feeling it . I can’t blame him seeing he hasn’t ridden even 1,100 Kms in his life and I am tossing him in a river, twenty feet from a waterfall. Also may not be the best idea to push on since the average speed today has been around 30 Kms/Hr and it rains in the afternoon this time of year. I do have the desire to return before the bridge is in and the coolest river crossing ever is washed away.



We turn around, head back through Vara Blanca and turn towards Poasito. We are onto Plan B (see above map).




1015: We are in Poasito and hungry.


After lunch we took off up to the entrance of Poas National Park. On our way back down, I signaled to Juan that we cut off onto a little gravel track I know of. He shrugged and I assumed it was an affirmative shrug. We leave the pavement.





We eventually turned around to find our way back down into the Valley. Not without stopping for fresh strawberries first.



We can hear thunder nearby and Juan seems peculiarly excited to be heading into a thunderstorm.


We find the rain and stop.

As Charlie commented above, when you are this close to home it is more of a pain to put on the rain gear. So we quickly stash phones and wallets in the trunk and continue on.

We drove out of the storm and the roads were still dry when we made it to my house at 1330.


Here is the damage:

102 Kms for the day, one-sixth of Juanca’s entire riding career. Stay safe and welcome to the asylum buddy.

Time to rewind this a bit to days past when getting away for a weekend was possible. A New Years trip to David, Panama.

I had gotten my future-wife her passport as a gift and figured we should use it. We further validated our excuse with the fact it was New Years and I selfishly desired to see what this “International Motorcycling” hype was all about. Excuse validated: RIDE!

31Dec, 0700 and climbing into the mountains on the CR1, Panamerican HWY.


We make a quick stop for gas and to bundle up. It wasn’t enough. I learned on this day that it is over 10,000 ft., even in the tropics.



At 0828 we were fully frozen. We had come down enough to stop, thaw and grub at a mountainside soda.


We then haul ass for the boarder.



By 1500 we had made it to David and checked in.



Don’t remember much from the night, but know it was fun. The next day we had a choice: head West to the beach or East into the mountains. We chose “A”.

We arrived to the beach about 45 minutes away. It was packed and there was no shade. We saw that at least all the people were crowding near the water so who cares how hot it is? We will be in the water. WRONG! I was overwhelmed by the roar of gigantic waves breaking not far off shore. We wander a bit to find out all the people were crowded at water’s edge because they had just pulled two bodies from the water and one was still MIA. This was not a swimming beach. Story went: One guy struggles, two jump in to save him and they all are assumed dead. Happy New Year right?


That was kind of a buzz-kill so Ana and I didn’t set up camp. We headed back to David, where even the manikins really happy.



Back at the Hotel, the peaceful tranquility of the pool area had disappeared.

FLESH! Let’s go!



That was our last night in Panama. We planned on staying one more night but Ana was telling me about her Grandparents who lived just over the border. Hmmm… Sit around the Hotel (David, Panama is boring (IMHO)) or RIDE more… what a stupid question.

02Jan11, 1310. Drove into the border and these guys snubbed their noses at us when we pulled up so I parked my dirty old bike as far away from theirs as possible.


Shortly after the border we turn left off the Pan-am and the pavement ended. We drove and drove, lost at times but just kept going. Looking for landmarks, asking the few folks we did see what lie ahead. I am liking this girl I had just met…





1730: We arrive at Grandma and Grandpa’s ranch. Raw chocolate (Cacao) anyone?



Unfortunately the vacation had to end. We said our good-byes the next afternoon and depart.

The old ferry to Pavones.


1414: A quick stop in Dominical and back on the road.



Just before 1600 we stop at one of my all-time favorite restaurants. El Avion. The Mahi Mahi sandwich is amazing and the view isn’t bad either.



We haul ass for home.



Let us pretend we didn’t drive the last hour or so from Jaco in the dark. Also pretend we made it in time for dinner overlooking the Central Valley at sunset. Much cooler!

OK, a couple of comments.

1) Kudos to Juan Carlos. Many new riders spend all their money on a bike, and think the don't need any gear. It looks like he has a good start on this.

2) I can't think of a worse place to go than Paso Canoas to David. Next trip cross the border at Rio Sereno, we can cruise the Hhighlands and you can stay on my sofá.

1- Agreed. Very surprising for any local to be wearing more than shorts and flip flops. More so if they have never been down. Juanca is doing it right. He is very cautious and goes extremely slow. I got the best mileage yet while riding with him last weekend. Avg. speed was likely around 35 Km/hr.

2- Agreed. Paso Canoas = Sh*t Hole. I am dying to do the Rio Sereno cross. I wish I had done my homework in 2010 and known it was there. Couch invite noted. I will have to build up some vay-cay time for a Panama run.

I've done the Rio Sereno border crossing a couple of times, and despite the wait on the Panama side tgis one time because the ONE computer operated by the ONE custom agent was down :huh, the road on the Panama side is superb and probably in my Top 5 list so far. Interestingly enough, it's quite the opposite on the CR side - sh*tty roads to say the least (last time I was there anyway).

Nice update Greg! Keep them coming.

This was a monumental day for two reasons. YBCAGED agreed to go on a ride with me and a ride further than the grocery store. The route is similar to that of PLAN “A” from last weekend’s ride, done counter clockwise from Mi Casa. Let’s RIDE!


2100 the night before: weather was not looking good, but at 0600 the day of:

Go time!

A flower as I wait to see the Yellow GS round the bend.



It never happened. What did happen was my phone rang and the man was asking where I was. Turns out he beat me to the rendezvous spot but didn’t stop. I found him 10 kms up the road and we continue in a Northerly direction towards Poas Volcano.


At the top and I was cold without a sweatshirt. It was 18C on the dash.
A view of Poas, looking West. I bet the crater is below those UFO looking clouds.


As we near the La Paz Waterfall the construction zone starts.


The bridge is in and now open for three hours a day, one hour at a time and our window was from 0700-0800. We were there 15 minutes early because I thought it was 0600-0700. Good thing we were running late. At the roadblock we of course took the liberties every motorcyclist should and pulled right to the front of the line.

I was planning on stopping at the waterfall to play around at the river crossing because YB brought along his DSLR. Unfortunately the work crew dug out the road and left a giant hole where the road crossed the river. DAMN! I should have gone for it last week.

Once I saw this, we just moved on. We were in front of everyone now.

The road was motorcycle bliss as we continued North.





It is now 0742 and we had mentioned stopping for coffee. We stopped at this restaurant which contained the word Coffee in its name. Perfect!


It was a ghost town. I walked in and there was no one to be found. Only a few wounded soldiers, an empty shot glass, a half of lime and a dirty plate.


We got back on the bikes. In route, I was quite surprised to catch a peek-a-boo view of Arenal Volcano way off in the distance.


When we hit the city of San Miguel we turn West for 6kms to the city of Rio Cuarto. In Rio Cuarto we have success in our search for coffee. It is 0806, the temperature is in the 30’s and we are 63 kms into the morning.


As we pulled into the restaurant and stopped I noticed something amiss. My bike was idling rough. I let it go and discovered as we departed that I had been running with the choke on. Fixed! Now back on the road we take a left and head South a short ways outside of Rio Cuarto. I was going to take a pic of the bikes next to the road closed sign but it now says open.


It was another blissful road with mountains all around while crossing many little rivers and streams. It is also quite empty since it is in a state of disrepair dating back to the quake of 2009.







The further we get South, the more the mountains close in on us. We have reached the “city” of Toro Amarillo and are faced with the wall ahead. You can see the road as it switchbacks its way up the mountain through the washout. I pointed this out to YBCAGED and he replied with “It better be paved.”


On this stretch from Rio Cuarto I had been noticing something strange but all too familiar. My dash light was out and my horn stopped working. As we were stopped for the pic in Toro Amarillo I dismount. What I confirmed was my headlight was dim to almost nothing and when it was turned on no other lights would work. Hmmm…? Turn the headlight off and at least I got a brake light. Good enough for now; onward.

Future Ride Report: Turning right. This day we go left. Mr. Caged is still a bit traumatized from the last time I took him off pavement .


Moving along, zig-zaging up the mountain we hug a massive valley with big drop offs. You don’t want to over-shoot a curve on this road. Waterfalls litter the other side of the valley to help distract you as you go.






At the top, the temperatures have dropped again. A look back North into the valley we just climbed out of.


Another view of Poas Volcano, only this time from the other side looking East.


0945: The Central Valley sprawls before us and we begin our decent.




We stop one more time on the way down the mountain. I didn’t take many more pictures because I had to be at the Hospital to visit my wife by 1100.


Sexy Bi*ches!


We arrived at my house at 1045 after a total of 128.8 Kms. There was time for a few ice cold, morning Coronas.

Hasta La Proxima Viajeros!

Thought it was shaping up to be a rather nice Monday. I had to put the rain gear on but I never quite drove into the storm, just skirted it the whole way home. The workload was pleasant and I couldn't really ask for more. Then I noticed a nail sticking out of the back tire.

I pulled out the nail which was about an inch deep and it didn't go hiss so... I can't be that lucky, and wasn't:


I could probably get by since it is a very slow leak...

but I need the practice.

This is going to suck.
**********************
Hours Later:

It did suck and I am not pleased with the result even though it is fixed .

I, meaning me my wife and my neighbor, fought that SOB until 2130 doing dangerous sh*t too: we had my neighbor's bike propped on it's stand, with my weight on it and my wife trying with the tire iron under all this. It would not give. I didn't have the lumber to try the car, leaver thing and by this time we were frustrated to say the least. Last tire shop closes at 2200 so the trigger was pulled. $3 later, all patched up.

F*ck . Good thing I carry tire irons.

After the above misadventure, a ride is in order. Just a quickie on Sunday morning but about 50% new roads (for me at least). A little dirt from what I can see in Google and just praying for no rear flats .

Good stuff Greg. I haven't dropped by in a while, but I like that you revisit some old rides. Keep it up man. Peace.

As always thanks for following along. If I can't be riding physically, I ride mentally, in the past.

Luckily, this morning, I got to put in 120kms.

All the details in time. Off to a B-Day party for now.

0500 felt too early but it is not often the wife suggests I take a ride. It is also non-existent that I pass the opportunity. Our planned departure was 0530 and a call to JuanCa revealed he was on schedule.

You may be asking why so early? That is because it is winter. Winter means rain. Our winter starts at the end of May and will sometimes spill into November. The first few months are clear in the morning, clouding up by noon, afternoon downpour and star filled skies at night. This time of year though (September and October) it is a craps-shoot, but you can still play the game of chance getting out early and off the road by 1300. Since moving here the Sept/Oct record has been 14 days of non-stop rain. It may not have been torrential rain, but it never stopped raining. I got wet going to and coming from work every day.

Now you know how winter works… 0530, lets RIDE… Well, almost… We drank coffee first then took off at 0600. The Sugar Cane is tall this time of year, almost ready to harvest, but still leaves a peek-a-boo view of Volcán Turrialba hissing away on the other side of the Valley.


Another nice thing about early departures is the lack of traffic. There are ALMOST no cars on the twisties as you wind your way down, up and off the Central Valley floor. This day was interesting as clouds were hovering in the valleys so we laterally drove in an out of the clouds.


This section of road, RT3/El Aguacate, is epic for bikes. Twists, turns, switchbacks, great views and large rocks dotting the sides of the tarmac.

Now rocks are not exactly the most exciting thing, I know. These are different though. A local artist took a lot of time to paint an individual work of art on each of them.


This local art expo takes place where RT3 crosses the Rio <XXX>. Pretty tranquil place so early on a Sunday.



Not far up the road was the first time we would &#8220;break new ground&#8221; today. So many times I have continued on the Aguacate Route wondering what lay down &#8220;that&#8221; other road. Now I need not wonder. It is another beautifully paved, twisty mountain road.


It was not far to our first obstacle of the day; the Toll Way.

We were only getting on the &#8220;new&#8221; HWY 27 for a little ways but our problem was that between the two of us there was zero cash, only plastic. We could turn back? I said no, let us push on and see what happens. It isn&#8217;t that I don&#8217;t have the money; it is that you don&#8217;t have the means to collect it. Also, I doubt they would send us back the wrong way down the freeway because we did not have a dollar. Turns out we hit one of the only free sections of this new HWY and got on and off without hitting a toll!

We hit the old Rail Road town of Escobal and turned uphill heading to Atenas. This is where the pavement ended for the first time today.


I will shut up now. Let the riding do the story telling&#8230;




JuanCa and his first river crossing! He started the day with 1,100 on the dial, lifetime.


The pavement reappeared as we approach town. We had been on the road for about two hours and were feeling hungry. The first place we saw with the Visa sicker on the window was it. A few, day old, overpriced pastries later and we were nourished.


I am sure they bake well but I picked yesterday&#8217;s batch and they were double what the Franchise bakeries all over CR charge. Stick to &#8220;SODAS&#8221;, you can&#8217;t go wrong there.

Back on the road I was starting to notice everything is in bloom right now!


We slab it out of Atenas climbing slightly as we pop in and out of the clouds.



We were looking for a right had turn before the next major city, but me ended up at Central Park. We cut a U and head back. My original route had not included the first little dirt run so my navigation notes were off up to this point. GPS/GoogMaps on the cell phone helped to let us know the turn was about 3-5 kms out of town. If we find it, the pavement will be behind us again.

Forgot the updated map:


Success, we found the turn! 0859 and eleven seconds with roughly 70 kms clocked (started the day with 8.6), we begin the next leg of the journey: Climbing and climbing and climbing. New territory for the both of us.

I&#8217;ll quiet down again&#8230;







It was now 0956 and holy sh*t! I am sweating my as* off. My Shoulder, neck and upper back muscles are on fire! Some of the best riding I have done to date, intense. We hit this semi flat spot and take a break. Soak up the view and bask in the SILENCE.



Ahhhh! Enough lollygagging, back on the bikes and we climb again, now up into the clouds.


We start seeing signs of civilization again, we are in coffee country. It is around where I made the first navigational error. Missed the right-left combo somehow and ended up on the Left-Right alternate. All ends up where we wanted to go so no biggie.

The fog got quite thick at times.

But we would eventually start to drop and things cleared up. This was also the beginning of my second navigation error.





Purdy flowers!


I had not been paying too much attention to the dash notes since we left the little coffee town where I made my first error. My second error was more than apparent when we hit the bottom of the hill and found ourselves on tarmac again. I pulled out the phone and realized my mistake. Good part was we could still get back on track. We just had to climb out of the mistake up to the road we were supposed to be on.


It was not too far up before we were reunited with the original route.


The time was now 1100 and we had ridden roughly 90 kms. It was here when JuanCa said something about missing pavement . I said tell me that on Moday when you are stuck in front of the computer.

We were also as high as we were going to get today with respect to altitude. Back in the town outside of Atenas, when we cut the U-turn and part two begins we sat at 850 mts above sea level. Here as we sat just below 4,400 mts.

We stopped and JuanCa whipped out two of the biggest oranges I have ever seen. We cut those babies up with his Rambo knife, soaked up the view and watch a local cat on his XR rip back and forth, up and down the route we were supposed to have taken.



We move on. There were no more turns to miss. Keep straight and the road would turn right and drop into the valley to our south. It did, but the road got increasingly sh*ttier and sh*tier as we neared the turn. I stopped in a mud puddle and dismounted. It was getting slick.



Not that I&#8217;ve done it or anything, but something told me not to push on. Sliding uncontrollably down a slick, muddy hill with a motorcycle in tow only to find out you can&#8217;t go back up, and have no clue how much more lie ahead, didn&#8217;t seem appealing.

Now I have read it but will repeat it. STEEP just doesn&#8217;t show in pictures. This was the end of the road for us.


There was a young fellow walking up this hill as we stood there laughing in shock. I asked him how much of this road was left until the bottom. His response couldn&#8217;t have been more appropriate. He said, &#8220;Un montón.&#8221; Kind of sounds like &#8220;a mountain&#8221; but translates to &#8220;a sh*tload&#8221;.

There was another road about a kilometer back or we could head back into the town we found by error and look for a way home from there. Luckily the gentleman walking confirmed for us that the road we wanted not only existed, but it was paved! For once I was happy to hear of pavement. Steep downhill runs on gravel/dirt are not my favorite and JuanCa is still so young. He doesn&#8217;t need to die just yet.

We backtrack, find our alternate route and rapidly descend.




At the bottom we zig zag through many little towns in route to Grecia. It was almost psychedelic as the colours flew past. Every home&#8217;s front boulevard was covered in tropical flowers. Faster I said!





I was hauling ass. The stretch to Grecia was also new ground and perfectly paved. It had some switchbacks.


Crossed the Rio Colorado.


Over a bridge.


Under a bridge.


And finally home, back in the Central Valley.


Today&#8217;s totals: 120 kms linear, 3,550 meters vertical and roughly 6.5 hours.

We had reason to celebrate.


Thanks for riding along, all 15,000+ of you!!!

I'm really sorry that I missed the "pants on fire" tour of 2013. Loving the downhill loose gravel shots.

2BCAGED, try a re-read. No downhills with loose gravel from what I recall.

As always, nice report and pics Greg.

What's with Juanca and the 1,100 milas? I've done that just
in the driveway this year. I know, I know...he'll get there.

So, I have been going ape shit for the past ? months. I don’t even remember what it is like to slow down to a snail’s pace anymore. It is all go, go, go and even the little half day, Sunday rides are not feeding the need .
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In the past days I have been scoping out the Pacific Coast and the Peninsula of Nicoya on Google Earth. What I have noticed is a large quantity of Dirt. What I also spotted was a stretch of beach out there, 5kms long with only two structures visible from about 2,000 feet of altitude. Add a shady looking airstrip and now I am curioso .
<o> </o>
My plan? Leave my house as early as possible, catch the ferry to Naranjo and ride a bunch of gravel roads I have never been on. Find this 5 km deserted beach named Bongo, set up camp and call it mine for an evening. The kid: still too young to come with. The wife: staying behind. Just me and what I can carry on the back of my bike.
<o> </o>
My excuse? The 28th is Thanksgiving. Good enough for me. I have put in for a vacation day on the 29th so barring my bosses wanting to flex and say no, I depart on Black Friday for an Adventure into the unknown. I will also be celebrating my 7 year anniversary of living in Costa Rica and will be 31 years and one day old.
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Stay tuned, I hope this will materialize.
<o> </o>
And a HUGE thank you to all 16,000 of you who have viewed this thread! That is so awesome! Sixteen Thousand wow!

I'm finally getting back to CR about this same time, I was hopeing to meet you but it looks like our paths won't cross! I rode around Nicoya last year, it is my least favorite place in CR, a lot of flat, non-scenic land.

On several previous rides to San Jose, I took the route over the pass from San Isidro. This time I want to follow the coast. I understand that the new road turns from the coast north of Jaco towards SJ. Is it possible to miss this turn? How is it marked?

I enjoy following your mini-rides. A lot of your pics look under exposed on my monitor.

Looking forward to seeing this one unfold!

The peninsula was one of the best parts of my trip down there earlier this year.

If you want to skip that paved section on the west side of your map, there is a rad dirt option if you keep heading north a bit and hang a right about half way between Osotional and San Juanillo that will dump you out in Santa Cruz where you can hook up with the pavement again. It's a pretty awesome ridge with amazing views of the peninsula.

Enjoy the ride!

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Monkey man, I am grateful to see you are still here. I too feel Juanca should sack up a bit, but he still rides more than YBCAGED.
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<o></o>
Mr. Charlie, I don't know... The maps I am looking at of Guanacaste look like it wouldn't take to many wrong turns before finding some real gnarly stuff. If you want, pack a tent and we can split the 5 kms of beach I plan to claim that weekend.

If you are heading up the coast you can't miss the signs to San Jose. Once you start hitting the toll booths you will know you are on the right route. IMHO: take the road of death. The coastal road and new HWY is FLAT and STRAIGHT

<o></o>
<o>Good to have you along David.</o>
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<o>And dood, why did you do that? If I found the right road it goes through the National Park.

Cheers to good advice.</o>

IMHO: take the road of death. The coastal road and new HWY is FLAT and STRAIGHT


<o></o>
I have traversed the Road of Death six times. The first one was a real pucker factor. I was in unfamiliar surroundings, it was cold and light rain and VERY FOGGY. My visor kept fogging up, so I opened it, only to get a faceful of rain. I couldn't see much further than 30 feet ahead, so I was going real slow, and praying that nobody would rear-end me!

Have you ever gone to Tortuguero? Thats one of my goals on this trip, probably the first week of December.