New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

Uller,

Your info is a bit incorrect.

Both the stock and your new MOSFET one are shunt style regulators. They let the stator produce full power at all times (permanent magnet charging system). Were the MOSFET has an advantage is that it has more efficient switching circuitry then a thyristor style R/R, so it looses less electricity and generates less heat. It is therefore likely to live longer and a good solution for bikes that only have problems with their R/Rs failing.

A completely different technology are 3 Phase series style regulators, as these will decrease the load on the stator when there is a lower load on the electrical system (by increasing resistance). So less heat is generated in the stator windings and less has to be dissipated by the R/R. These are not widely used yet (the Compufire 55402 is one of the only suitable models) but seem to offer a great improvement for bikes with problematic stators such as the Aprilias, Triumphs and the BMW F800GS.

As far as I have seen even the higher mileage 690s don't heat up their stators too much and therefore fry the insulation, so the MOSFET shunt style R/R is a sufficient and more proven technology.

Lukas,

Thanks for the correction and additional info. Much appreciated. I am still learning most of this stuff and am all when it comes to the finer technical aspects . I'm more of Cliff notes kinda guy..... (I've never bought a cliff notes book though)

Just so I don't make the same error again and so I understand you correctly, If I were to replace "Shunt" with "Diode" in my explanation above would I then be correct?

Just ordered one of those units. It pays off to be a bit paranoid with the 690

FYI I installed the new design of Cycleworks fuel pump with the serrated outlet this weekend, replacing the old stye. The fuel hose was still very solidly on the old style outlet with no sign of coming off but with the new design there is no way it is ever coming off.

It arrived!!!!! Unfortunately the order arrived to us and after going through all of the orders that we have it was only able to fill all outstanding 2008-2011 Orders and a few 2012 Tank Kit Orders. We have plenty more on order with Rally Raid and hope to see both more 2008-2011 Kits as well as more 2012 Tank Kits to fill the existing few orders we have for customers and have some residual for satisfying instant gratification orders. We received stock on almost every other item they have but now looking at the shelves leaves us low on the Suitcase Carrier System and a few other tidbits which we will notate on our site for reference. Sincere apologizes to everyone who has been extremely patient with Rally Raid's delay in filling this order and with that KTMTwins.com just want to thank everyone once again for being the best customers on the planet as well as our friends. We are shipping all tank kit orders that have been filled based on order date out this week so if you are one of those customers please look out for a email from us with your tracking number.

Among other things you might want to try a softer throttle cam. KTM carries a kit of three throttle cams, one of which is soft. The cams are made by a company whose name I have forgotten, G something I think. You will find the KTM part under their Hard Parts listing. With the standard map setting the soft cam eliminates most of the jerkiness.

It's not like I'm an expert either, I just know some stuff I read on the internet so it must be true!

The stock R/R is a "thyristor" type, I corrected that in my above post. But yeah, other than that I your explanation was good.

From what I have seen the Shindengen FH012 R/Rs seem to charge around 14.4 volts which will lower stator temps a bit and should be better for the LifePo4 batteries. Another good option for the 690 would be a FH008 (e.g. used on the new CBR600RR), it will have enough capacity and is a bit smaller.

G2 Ergonomics.

The 100 cam is like stock, from then on they are more and more progressive, 400 is the mildest.

thanks for the infos

I used rubber condoms to plug my stuff. (Juste like in the picture below) My air valve is gone.

From what I know, the rectifier should be preferably grounded on the frame. I did it twice rather then once ...

Whenever I remove my airbox, i'll post a picture here ... But essentialy that is the area to watch. I rerouted both the breather hose AND the cable cluster you see on the left. And cable is now around 4" lower. And do not touch the fan much anymore.

Paul Jr

It is grounded through the wiring and not the housing, the frame is only used as a heat sink.

You could make an even better heat sink with a bracket out of a thick(ish) piece of copper or aluminum. But in general the MOSFET R/Rs stay cool enough and don't need anything fancy.

Anyone out there who uses something like a Giant Loop bag have any issues with the heel guard failing while using it as a tie point for your luggage? They seem a little flimsy to me. Thoughts?

I feel weird quoting myself...

Took a look and while it will be a challenge to pull the boot/wire off the spark plug from this angle it most definitely would be possible and the spark plug itself is definitley a 'Yes' as far as access goes.

Also, I had a light bulb go off while I was in the garage. My statement above mentions the only possible movement is in the up/down direction, I started thinking about some foam under the seat to just "snug stuff up" and .... I have a Corbin seat which has a custom seat pan. It actually has rubber bumpers which put pressure on the top of the air box already. You can see some of the round rub marks from them in some of my pics. My airbox is locked in and has all directions of movement stopped by something. I'm still going to leave my disclaimer above but, now feel really confident this is going to work very well.

Collective reading here: http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_e/electro/catalog.html

Paul Jr 8

I'm pretty sure the 2012 SMC R rims are spoked tubeless rims.

Muchas gracias! I'll look for a 2010 or 2011 then.

Is it OK to wire heated grips to the accessory wire behind the headlight cowl? I already have a pair of LEDS and an accessory power outlet wired to that wire. Or is it OK to wire the grips to the low beam power wire?

Thanks

i have used my greatloop type strapped to the plastic heel guards,with out a problem,they flex outwards a bit,but seem to handle it ok.

Paul,
Have you seen a doctor about that yet ???


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I have used that plastic piece as a lash point for my Coyote bag for over 4,000 kms of offroad and it has shown no signs of wear or fatigue. I have a heavy duty bungee cord hook I scavenged from a Walmart bungee (that looks more like this: ... and made a loop in the webbing at the hook base and passed the Coyote strap through that....

and NOT these wimpy ones:


:

I noticed BobZ and his gang simply tied a small gauge bit of climbing rope through the hole in that heel piece so it was a 4" long loop ....and then used a carabiner to loop the Coyote strap through.....much simpler than my method

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Oups. After a second reading, it sounds quite different to what I had in mind when I wrote it ...

But do you have a clue of what I really meant ??? Or should I rephrase it ???

Paul Jr 8