Damn, I just looked at a map and those tornadoes were close to CW. Maybe an hours drive? Glad nobody was killed.
I sent you some goodies and a bigger bump stick, you should have them by the middle or end of the week..
Does anyone have any experience with any offset Bar risers other than the popular ROX Risers? I would like to find some for cheaper than 100 dollars but I cant find much. If I have to go with the Rox should I get the block risers or the pivot risers? Do you have any preference in Brand of fork springs?
Pivot that bitch :) Seriously though, for the amount of adjustability, the pivot risers are the way to go. Got a new L for the week to ride and thats the 1st thing I slapped on, even before I took it out! I need to return the bike on monday so I just removed them. The bike feels almost awkward to ride now. Get a set of fat bars and some pivot risers. The best thing you can do.
I don't balance my dual sport tires; however, I don't employ rim locks, either. I did buy some Dynabeads last year; I need to remember to experiment with them. <object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/eq263AYgyYg?version=3&feature=player_detailpage"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/eq263AYgyYg?version=3&feature=player_detailpage" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="360"></object> Spud
Spud- I think dynabeads are for tube less tires.... they might in time chew up your tube maybe this is why you have not used them on your L ? Those tire videos with jay are great. do you have a tire changing stand? and the bead buddy? BTW, you need to update your SIG...... rear tire is now a MT21 .... Your tips are amazing SPUD... i am gonna order me some motion pro collet & driver for bearing removal thank you will those tools work for front wheel bearings? John
Have experienced many of the same issues in the past so hope this helps. 1. It's a big bike - even if you're big. So I'm a fairly average Joe, but I have to work to swing my leg over the XR and can only touch tippie-toe. My buddy's much bigger but really barely was able to get his leg over the bike. Once on it though, the suspension squatted under his enormous girth. Set the rear sag about 4 1/2 inches. 15 oz synthetic ATF in each fork leg. 2. It's possible to run out of gas - even when you still have gas. The natural color IMS desert tank lets you see you've still got fuel, but that causes you to not use your other cues - known range (not established yet) and the hint of an occasional sputter. It appeared to have plenty of gas, but it was on the wrong side of the tank and not getting to the petcock. I ended up with a red Acerbis 5.8. Petcocks on both sides. They now offer a clear. I would love the clear but was not offered at the time! 3. I don't trust the traction - even with new tires. New T63s, but I haven't developed confidence on the street and the little bit I rode on the dirt (at too high of PSI) was slippy to say the least. I found it a bit unnerving considering the mass of this sled. Have not tried these but tires make a huge difference. I like 606 120/90/18. 12 psi dirt or street. Front Maxxis Desert IT 80/100/21. 4. It's faster in the dirt than on the street. OK, well at least it feels like it. The average car speed on the streets in So Cal is WFO and I don't find the bike anything near ideal. Turn off onto the dirt and twist the throttle and Whoa there boy! She's a handful if you don't exercise a little restraint. I run 14/45 sprockets. Works for me everywhere. Hit the slab when required to connect a path & run 65+ easily. Ride mine all over AZ & Utah & have never had a bike I like as well as this antiquated old Honda
I threw it around in the dunes today. Even with the rejetted yoshi on the bike, I cant help but feel that the bike took a pounding in the sand... 40miles to reserve! anybody else experience this?
You can use the Dynabeads with inner tube tires; I believe some on the inmates on this thread are using them. I don't have a problem with unbalanced tires, so I haven't felt an urgency to experiment with the Dynabeads. I primarily bought the Dynabeads to see if I could extend the tread life of my tires, but I'm not having a problem in that regard, either. Therefore, I haven't felt the need to install the Dyna beads. The Dynabeads appear to be very smooth, so I doubt they will do much harm to an inner tube. However, since I'm not having problems with either tire balance or tire wear issues, I haven't been in a hurry to install the Dynabeads, and possibly create a problem with my inner tubes. In all fairness, I have never heard anyone report he has encountered problems with his inner tubes while using Dynabeads. Yes, I use the same tools and the same techniques as Jay Clarke. His videos are authentic; he doesn't employ "smoke and mirrors. " Using his techniques, I change tires as easily as he demonstrates in his videos. I never shed any blood changing my tires; I don't even get frustrated any more. I own a Moose Racing Tire Changing Stand. I bought this stand for $100, delivered; it is one of the best tool investments I have made. I also use Motion Pro Tire Spoons, and a Tusk "bead buddy." Thanks for reminding me; I just updated my signature. Yes, the 17mm split collet will work for both wheels on the XR650L. Make sure you get the large bearing driver. Using these tools, extracting wheel bearings is "easy peasy." You can effortlessly drive out a wheel bearing in less than a minute. Spud
Well I think I got the hard starting issue resolved. 58 pilot and 160 main seem to work much better with the 10% ethanol they force us to buy in Indiana.
One more time SPUD...........I think dunlop is still in your SIG You know i'm just busting your BEADS right? That moose stand is badass.... it might take up some room in my single cageless bike garage
Dynabeads are the shiznit. I have been running them on my L for a year and they work great. I run a full knobby tire on the front and cannot tell its there on the freeway.
Since I have my jetting resolved, I will offer my 55 pilot and 158 main to anyone doing a Dave's mod. Just shoot me an IM with your mailing address.
You've got to refresh your web browser, John. I updated my signature before I made my last post. You can pay more for a tire changing stand, but the Moose Racing stand works great. I see Rocky Mountain ATV/MC is also selling a very similar, MSR tire changing stand for $89.99. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...-Tire-Changing-Stand/TUSK+TIRE+CHANGING+STAND Changing knobby tires on your knees is literally a pain in your back, kneecaps, and neck. :huh It's is immensely more pleasant to change tires while standing on your hind legs, like a human being. You get more leverage on the tire irons, and can use your weight to assist you when using a tire changing stand. These stands are very portable, and very easy to dismantle for either storage or transport. Do yourself a favor, and buy a tire changing stand. The stand will quickly pay for itself, and make tire changing a much more pleasant experience. Spud
Haha I trashed my engine in the dunes. On the plus side, CycleWizard is rebuilding it into something gnarly.
The NEW EBC pads (red) where just as thick as my stock pads that have 5000mi on them-that was a little disappointing, I guess it's a good way for EBC to make more money having you buy them more often. Where did you find that the D606 has a much harder rubber compound than the MT21, I'm not sure I would have just bought one (MT21) had I known that. Also Rocky Mtn is selling the Shorai Lithium-Iron Battery LFX18A1-BS12 Fits: 2009 HONDA XR650L Part# 1333530006 Our price: $169.99 Which is the bigger battery for the XR650L, (the one I bought for mine) for the same price as Super bike supply which is where Spud Rider and I bought ours from.
On my two stroke I get about 10-15 mpg in the sand. You cannot go shit for distance when a stroke is wrapped-up all the time.
Someone asked me why I liked my Tusk brake pads if they didn't fit. Well, the Tusk brake pads do fit the brake caliper; however, they won't accommodate the brake pad spring/clip. Therefore, I am riding with my Tusk brake pads while I await the arrival of my Honda, OEM brake pads. After riding a few miles with them installed, I can confirm the Tusk pads brake very well. In addition, the Tusk pads seem to be very well manufactured, and very thick. Here's a photograph of a new, Tusk brake pad juxtaposed with a worn, OEM brake pad. Other than reducing some noise, I can't see the purpose of the stock, brake pad spring/clip. My Tusk brake pads work very effectively without the spring/clip, and my brake rotor is still in good condition. Also, I can't hear any noise coming from the rear brake. Therefore, I plan to continue using the Tusk brake pads, and inspecting them frequently. If I don't notice any problems arising, I will probably keep using the Tusk brake pads without installing the brake pad spring/clip. Perhaps the brake pin will wear a little faster without the brake pad spring/clip installed. However, the Tusk brake pads cost $13.99 a pair, and a Tusk brake pin costs $3.99. Therefore, as long as the Tusk pads brake well, and my brake rotor remains in good condition, I am happy to continue experimenting with these brake pads. I didn't learn the difference from advertising; I discovered the difference from personal experience. After purchasing both the D606 and the D952 tires, I discovered both tires seem to be manufactured from the same rubber compound. This rubber compound is harder than the rubber compound of all the other rear tires I have mounted, so I was not surprised when my D952 tire provided over 6,000 miles of wear. The MT21 rubber compound is not noticeably different from all the other rear tires I have mounted. The two Dunlop tires are manufactured from harder rubber. I love Rocky Mountain ATV/MC! Spud
