KLR650 Only Thread......

Umm.... here's your answer. Maybe follow up on your post, and ask ADW, since you now know he did it?

Should I post this here or in the yard sale area?

Looking for suggestions on nerf bars or engine guards and lockable tail bags. I've looked on happy trails, but don't know of those are the best out there. You guys know all.

the PD nerf bars look OK, but what is the difference in engine guards and nerf bars?

Any suggestions on lockable tail bags, we can't find one that will hold 2 helmets and back support.

Thanks,

I just ordered the pd nerf bars, should be here Tuesday. I'll know more then.

I have a givi topcase on my fjr that holds 2 helmets. It's huge, I wouldn't want it on the klr. You're not going to get any smaller though and still hold 2. I just carry a bicycle cable. Run it through the back wheel, through a grab handle, and around the chin bar. Covers all the bases.

Fjr with givi.



All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.

Don't confuse a standard KLR forks with your modified forks. The valving methods are now completely different. Going to a heavier oil with a cartridge emulator will slow down the dampening and might make the forks slower and give it a harsh feeling. With what you are describing you might go the other way and try a 5w oil to soften the fork action.

I have had RT Emulators and springs in 2 Klrs.
10 weight is recommended.
The Emulators are adjustable and control compression, if you want more or less compression then adjust the Emulators accordingly.
If you are not happy with your Rebound, then you can play with oil weights as a tuning tool.

Are you sure the MMP spring is right for you ?
How much do you weigh ?

I weigh 240 with gear and have a 500 inch lb. Eibach spring and really like it

To remove the spring from the shock I use an upright shop press.Its a pretty tough spring to remove.

I think the best solution is too spend the money on an oversize tank that protects your radiator.
It will be a lighter solution, will be alot simpler taking the bike apart not having to mess with all the bars and stock side panels and you will have better range as a bonus.
And get the natural color so you can see your fuel level and make marks on the sides indicating gallons.

Will look at the Eibach shock. weigh 280 plus gear. need tank not KLR seams to do ok as is but always looking for improvement still get off road alot and loaded at the same time

You may find it easier to find a automotive suspension shop to change the spring out for you for $20 or $50 if you don't have the tools. Safer that way anyway.

Most run of the mill automotive shops don't have the ability to compress motorcycle springs, moto springs are a smaller diameter and the compression arms for a car compressor won't go down that small. Just fyi on my experience.

I have a press and auto coil spring compressor tool but not sure if they will fit on coils. was hoping that someone had already done this and could help me cut to the chase. with advise. have not removed shock from bike yet. MMP mentioned that the spring can be installed from either end of shock. may have to just take apart and investigate. thanks for the help

I don't think the mmp spring is enough for you, you need the Eibach 500.
Check out the chart here.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...8YGgAQ&usg=AFQjCNEjAS6K0pr7uBdL3Vm52Dt5w009Cg

MMP shock has load weight at 330lb with 8kg spring

Could just check the local bike shops as well, most are slow enough these days that they don't mind little piece meal stuff like this. I know my local shop would do it. work is work these days

I question that.The Eibach chart is giving different rider weights.
Also I run a 500 in.lb spring and weigh quite a bit less than you and my spring isn't harsh.
That mmp spring is equal to a 450 inch lb.
Also, Eibach has been in the spring business for a long time.

yes Eibach is a great spring ran them on some rally cars but was unclear of weight and kg. ratings for bikes, the price is the same on replacement coil Thanks

Yes, that too.

Yesterday the subframe bolts broke on my KLR. I only noticed it when the back-end was sitting on the tire all the sudden while I was riding.

They seem to have been broken for a while and my mistake was not checking them earlier. The good news is that I was only 1 mile from home.

Looks like I'm going to have to attempt to use an easy-out to remove the broken bits and then attempt the upgrade to the bolt.

When the rear was dangling off the back this put tension on the battery cable and other wiring; this tension broke the neg. battery post. Looks like I will be getting a new battery out of the deal, unless I can figure a way to salvage the broken post.

Look at eagle mikes drill through kit might save you some hassle.

http://www.eaglemike.com/Drill-through-subframe-upgrade-kit-DTSUK.htm



tom

Cant go wrong with Eagle Mikes Drill Through. I installed it on a project I'm working on.

Its long because this is the SW Motec Crash Bar kit...

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