Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

Pulling the subframe bolts out is easy, then just pull back on the subframe as required just enough to get it out. Replace stock subframe bolts with high rade bolts. Might have to clip a few tie wraps. I left my muffler in place. I did pull the linkage bolts at the end though, becuase they should be cleaned and greased. I use waterproof bearing grease. Make sure to reinstall the shock so the lower adjustment screw faces the left side for easy access.

If you are also pulling your front forks and choose to get fork bleeders drilled and recessed in the caps (leaving the vent holes there with screws, make sure to place the new holes where your handle bar cables won't drape across them and vent on the trail.

Not helpful

Thanks Mike, I'll give pulling the lower subframe bolts out. I was hoping to avoid this, as I think I'll have to drain and remove the big Safari tank to get at them, but the amount of effort I have put into removing the shock without removing the bolts far exceeds the effort it would just have taken to pivot the rear subframe out of the way...

Probably a good idea to replace the bolts with something made of steel rather than cheese

I was only trying to save you the frustration of doing it yourself

I'll make it up to you by PM you Ken Webb's email. He's the custom side stand guy.


Life is good!

PM sent


Life is good!

Same part number, "Braking" brand.

Can anyone give me a part number for a nice floating front rotor " braking or galfer " I can't stand the singing stock front one.

Hmmm... yeah, I have the same brand. Weird. Maybe if I take the pickup wire off the pickup and screw the sensor in a little more, so it is closer to the rotor?

I just did my 2007 I took the swingarm and muffler off and it came right out . It was my first time and it took about 1.5 hours. Take your time and note.the swing arm pivot bolt it must be oriented correctly to pass by brake lever.

Hey guys,
I'm currently scheduled to leave to do the CDT next Friday (8/10). I noticed today that when I come to a hard stop (with brake dive) oil smoke comes from the front of the bike. It has been leaking oil, seemingly from the headgasket, it has accumulated around the headers but does not smoke when sitting at a light, only recently and when the bike dives forward.
Is there a breather hose that I'm not seeing on the front of the motor that might be leaking? If its the gasket, are there any remedies or a temporary fix?
Any reason I shouldn't move forward with my plans to do the CDT? If oil loss is the issue, its not so rapid that I can't handle it by carrying extra oil.

Not what you want to be dealing with so close to a big trip.


EDIT: One thing I didn't mention. When checking my valves a month ago, I replaced the valve inspection cover gaskets, but did not seal the threads of the bolts that hold the cover on. I'm thinking that I should seal these threads, remove the headers, clean the gasket areas really well and smear with silicone (as I have seen mentioned in other oil leak threads). Thoughts?

It's the main valve cover and bolts leaking, not the inspection covers and bolts. It's really not that hard to do, no gasket used, machine fit to the head needs sealant and thread sealant on the bolts.

Any thought as to why it would smoke when the bike dives? I can see oil under pressure leaking out, but don't understand how more oil would come out when the bike dives forward.

It spills off a little shelf onto the headers.

How do we feel about wrapping the headers? I've got them off, seems like a good time to wrap them and reduce some ambient heat.

I used to wrap the headers on my roadrace bikes (GSXR750/FJ600) and to be honest, I never noticed any performance advantage. If there was one it was pretty insignificant. It could have helped the engines last longer (?) by keeping them cooler. I did have a full race Yoshimura engine last an extraordinarily lone time. Maybe the wrap had something to do with that? The only real downside is that the wrap is hard to clean and it gets real dirty and ugly fast on a road/race bike so I can only imagine it'd take about one ride in the dirt to be packed in mud/dirt. As far an my husky goes, I never noticed any huge amounts of heat so it didn't seem like a project that was really worth it. If you do decide to do it let us know how it works.

ps, I remembered one other thing. The wrap holds moisture in it so besides adding weight to the bike when it gets wet it also promotes corrosion of the header pipe so if you leave it on there a long time your header will look pretty nasty when you finally take it off.

When I look at a TE630, it looks to me like a 610 with a 510 head bolted on. Does anyone know if it's as simple as that?

Do you know if it's reasonably do-able?

So when should we be looking to subscribe to a build thread in "Some Assembly Required"?

So, you're chicken then? C'mon I dare you!

+1

I'm not looking for any performance gains, I just want to keep things cooler and potentially make them last longer (like the starter that is right next to the exhaust pipe). The bubbling of the plastic fuel overflow tube tells me that it does get pretty hot in the area under the radiators. It can get as hot as balls here in MD, I overheated on one of those record breaking temp days recently. I'd have to think that reducing heat so close to the radiators will probably help. I'm not too worried about corrosion, my bike doesn't get wet much and aren't the headers stainless?