I have them posted at sidecars.com and linked to that site. I can see them here on my work computer. I"ll email tham to you tomorrow from home, thanks. I'm really pleased with the way they are working for me.
Here is the mounting of the 44 LED lights on my new Tiger XC. I used the SW Motech mounts. I like the looks vs the Triumph Auxillary lights at slightly less overall cost. I have the remote dimmer and still need to dial it in at night to see how much light they put out and not blind oncoming traffic. Its below freezing at night so Im not motivated to do it just yet. Thanks to Sanjoh for the help in connecting etc. I also used the heavy duty brackets. They are substantially stronger than the stock ones with better bolts so don't skimp on these. .
Not a bad idea Tallguy-09. I will leave them for now until I get them adjusted and them maybe break out the rattlecan. Show us some pics of your mounting. I am very happy with the D300. No need to change as more megapixels does not make a better photo unless you are blowing up the prints to very large sizes. I bought a compact Nikon Coolpix 8200 for trips where I don't want to lug all the gear around. I think these lights will work very well.
Nice install. Are the SW Motech mounts stainless or powder coated steel? How do you think the lights will fair in a drop?
I painted the brackets with some kind of graphite rust primer, seems to stick well on the stainless steel brackets. Mine are mounted hanging (also SW-Motech mount) to gain some distance between the "sun" and the turn signals.
I mounted mine the opposite way, with the hope that they will pivot backwards in a crash instead of hitting the solid metal "stop"
Glad to hear they are working out. Looks like a tremendous amount of light. Bob's pics and notation. Made these brackets for the fork mounts: Sidecar light at full power, fork lights dimmed: Led's at full power. The tiny dot in the center of the lane is a street sign 1/2 mile away:
The mounts are powdercoated black. It does not say if it is stainless or steel but I would assume steel. They appear to be very sturdy.
I was curious as to what you think of the light positioning, usually the light mounting dictates how it will fare in a drop/crash. Usually the higher and closer to the triple clamp the better with respect to light survival. They look fantastic on your bike and definitely add to the aesthetics IMO.
I like these mounts. Solid, easy to take the light on & off and gives a bit more space for the wiring and spedometer.
I would say they will hold up very well. As you can see from the pictures the turn signals and tank plastic stick out further from the bike than the LED's. It would probably help to have some crash bars that extend up to the upper plastic such as those from Holan, but since I bought the bike used it already came with the Triumph crash bars. The triumph aux lights have a nice steel cover around the lights but I could not find anything to buy seperately. These lights blend in with the black on the plastic and do not stick out as much visually.
Sanjoh = That's a thoughtful wife, congrats. If mounted behind the windscreen, the glare will likely kill your eyes, I wouldn't recommend it. You may have a point on the lens cracking, but if you want to test it out (off the sled) and they crack, I will send you a new one and a pair of our xpel lens protection for free. Just post up your findings here. Test consisted of a 16 qt. Coleman cooler which I shoveled snow into off the back deck.. Think there's about three feet deep of the stuff so that didn't make a dent btw. Hooked up my xr650l bike battery in parallel with my TL1000R battery with a tiny battery tender to help out the batteries a little. I used a craftsman professional combo voltmeter/temp sensor sort of thing. Snow in cooler was at 23F. With the light on full power and the IR temp sensor pointing directly into the leds I got a reading of 214F, the side of the light got to around 121F. Battery's were down to 12.08 volts. I let the light sit on full power for about 8 minutes. I then proceeded to pack the lens full of snow which if I mounted the light on the front of the sled and if I hit a big drift or such that snow came up over the hood would have this effect. Nothing happened.. I then let it heat up again and buried it under the snow which could happen if I was practicing some full lean turns and lost traction (got stuck on the side). I just redid the test with a 14.4 volt dewalt drill battery to better simulate running volts. At five minutes run time @ full power and the IR temp sensor pointing directly into the leds I got a reading of 231F, the side of the light got to around 147F. The snow half melted in the cooler but the temp was still 25F. At the exact moment I stuck the light lens first into the snow/water mix the temp override thing inside the housing tripped and the light output decreased. I thought the snow made the light dim as it was such perfect timing. This would have been the hottest the light could have possibly got for a test. After two minutes completely submerged it went back to full power. I pulled it out and shook off the water and the only thing was a light film of condensation directly in front of the four leds on the inside of the glass. I let it sit on full power for roughly 8 minutes and now the condensation is gone from the inside of the lens. I brought my summit in to the garage so tomorrow I'll see where I can mount these in a location I'd have a hard time breaking. On a side note the HD brackets are definitely thicker but where the mounting ears are bent to fit into the "foot" there is a slight split in the metal going from flat to 90degrees, so while they are heavier duty the ears have have headstarts to getting peeled off though I think there would be bigger problems by the time that occurs. Possible fix would to have a bigger radius in the metal before the bend so the metal there can have a more gradual transfer from flat to 90 degree bent ear. All in all a good robust product! I just need to find some waterproof connectors so I can move from snowmobile to dualsport without a complete rewire spring and fall!
Sorry got cross posted. I meant these would be good for this: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=18041013#post18041013
I'm planning on getting one 60 light. Seems like everyone is getting 2. Is one enough for spirited off-road riding?
One 60 is more than enough for spirited off road riding. Might want to check your stator output for available watts. The 60 uses 30 watts at full tilt. If you look back in the thread a few pages, ginger beard is running a single model 30 on his KLX300R. I've seen him ride off road at night without a problem.
Weekend warrior, Nice setup on your tiger. I'm doing the same thing to mine. Where did you mount the dimmer? And how are you wiring it? I was planning on using the oem foglight connector for power and tapping off the highbeam at the large connector behind the steering stem for the purple wire. Is that similar to your setup? Btw, the Holan crashbars don't cover all the way up the side of the tank, only enough to cover the lower plastic piece, not the upper. And unfortunately, you have to remove them to remove the tank.
