The BMW HP2 Megamoto thread.

If everyone in the world lived their lives happy with the 80th percentile, then we would be living in a socialist utopia where Ferraris and Ducati 1198's would not exist, and where we all would drown in mediocrity. I was not careful enough when I wrote that they both do the same thing. They both roll down the road in similar ways because they are both motorcycles, but that's where it ends. They provide a very different experience when pushed hard. Don't misunderstand me, I have nothing against a 1200R nor anyone that really likes theirs because it's a fine bike, but some things just appeal to some in a very different way, and for me, who has experienced their second or third decade of motorcycle (or collector car, etc) ownership and has owned a hundred different motorcycles, it's perhaps natural to desire something that's really unique with a radical price to bolts and features ratio but that just makes you excited whenever you see it and makes you want to go out and loft the front wheel and really ride it, it's worth the money.

My apologies. I guess I'm just not as good a rider as you. After 35 years of riding various bikes myself, and now owning both the MM and R12R, amongst other bikes, I just don't feel that much of a difference.

Perhaps I should just sell them both and go ride a KLR with the other socialist masses.

Well I can't say I'm that surprised, because on paper, and from a basic engineering perspective, they are remarkably close. It isn't as if you're comparing a screaming 4 sport bike to a single pot trail bike, you're comparing two essentially similar sit up and beg boxers to each other. One is a bit more light hearted and fun, the other a bit practical and sensible, but in the end what makes you happy is what makes you happy, and thats different for everyone.

You're probably not, but I don't know if you should be sorry about that one. KLR's are great bikes also but aren't you being a little hard on yourself? Now that I think about it, I couldn't tell much of a difference between the Ducati GT1000 touring or the Hypermotard either... :slurp

So after 2600Km (and another drop of the bike :dog ) I'm back. I went all the the way through the northern Portugal, Galicia, Asturias and a bit of the Basque Country. Fantastic scenary and even better roads!!!!

Here are some photos, just in case you're curious.
http://s565.photobucket.com/albums/ss97/Bruno_Araujo/Summer_ride_2009/

Wunderlich

By drilling 3 or 4 holes (10mm) into the filler neck, I now go around 100 miles before the light comes on and can go around 130 - 140 miles on a tank. I can squeeze 150 if it's getting desperate, by riding very very steadily for the last 40 miles or so.

During breakin I was getting 45-48 mpg. Not to bad.

Joe, thanks for the link, my screen ordred!
Also can you show pics of these -
3 or 4 holes (10mm) into the filler neck

It's been a long time since I had a bike (13 years!) but I'm thinking that around 120-140 miles is a good distance for a natural break anyway? You've already done several really long trips on yours, did the range bother you a lot?

Lovely pix, and lovely ride it looks too - can't wait to get out on mine!

This looks just like the Central Coast between LA & SF!

The only time the range worries me is when I've got no fuel left . I have been down to just 2 miles showing left on the range and it was there for a mile or two as well :eek1 . That was in rural France where fuel stations can be difficult to find. Same thing happened on my Rockster this year in France, no open or working fuel station for 45 miles, crossed into Spain on vapour and 3 open within 2 miles

The range countdown on the MM seems accurate though, so I've run it down to single figures on numerous occasions now. The range before drilling the tank neck did irritate me, but it's not bad now. Not bad enough to buy an extra tank anyway, which whilst useful and well made, spoil the openess of the lines of the bike for me.

Drilling the filler neck is simple enough, just 4 holes, the thing you need to take care with is removing the filler neck out of the tank as the fuel level sensor is attached. Nothing difficult, just need to take a little care and not force anything that doesn't want to be forced.

For the HP2S, I could found these info but...

EU : from ZS50020 (2007/01) to ZS61314 (2009/04) ==> range of 11.295 units
US : from ZS61315 (2007/02) to ZS70189 (2009/04) ==> range of 8.875 units

http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi

That looks a like lot of bikes, compared to the Enduro and Megamoto??

yes, I don't know how much this hyperlink is valid ?

But it gives exact info for my MM.

I suppose that the range is locked even if all the bikes haven't been build ?

Yes, the VIN number ranges are set for models at the start of production, and are usually based on estimated period of time a particular vehicle will be on the production line.

With cars BMW have very defined 'hard finish' dates for the build of each model, usually ending right before the summer holiday so the factory can be retooled for the new model during the break. The factory floor logistical planning runs two to three model cycles ahead of the present, around 15-20 years out! :eek1

I'm not sure exactly how the production planning is at the BMW bike factories, but I'd imagine pretty similar, though maybe it doesn't need to be planned so far out. Also the HP's were dreamed up and planned before the recession, so it would make sense that they expected to sell more than they have been able to, hence the very broad VIN spread.

Another great tip!!

You seem to be the person who has got to grips with this beast the most. Is there anything else I should do once I've done the suspension settings, fitted the screen and done the tank mod.

Tires? Pressures? Useful owner tips?

I wouldn't say that, it's just that when I've had issues, I've sought advice / experimented and then posted the results here to keep it all in one place. It just makes me look a little brighter than I actually am.

I'm in the process of doing some research for my as yet to arrive new MM. I am fortunate enough to have ridden one and checked it out extensively.
As well as having read feedback from many that the suspension is on the stiff side, I found that there is literally 1 mm sag on the front and maybe 10mm sag on the rear with my weight on it, and that tells me right off hand that the spring rates are far too stiff for me at 175 lbs with gear. I've read about others that weigh over 220 lbs that like the stock set up perhaps confirming my impressions thus far.
I've been speaking with marzocchi as well as ohlins and I'm in the process of sorting out exact OEM factory specs/spring rates/valving setups and then going from there to determine if it needs simply different spring rates or springs and valving to really get the suspension well sorted.

Answers thus far have revealed that the forks were set up with virtually MX spring rates and valving, and since I will not get my MM until next week, I cannot get a serial number off the rear shock and spring. With that info, I will be able to find out the exact valving configuration and spring rates that were arrived at for production. So, if anyone wants to take a look at their MM and let me know the serial number for the shock (which should be on the top) and and complete serial number for the rear spring, that would give me a head start. Sorting the stock suspension is tops on my list as my impressions thus far are that it would be a much more enjoyable bike set up correctly. The headshake that I've read about so much from other MM owners would also benefit greatly from the proper suspension setup.

The first place to start is to determine if the spring rates are correct for your weight, and an easy way as a starting point to determine if you have the correct spring rates, is to check sag. If you ride your bike with leathers and proper riding boots most of the time, put them on before you measure or wear a backpack with 15 lbs in it before you take these measurements. (It's easier for me to put a backpack on with dive weights in it rather than to wear all my riding gear) The static sag on the forks should be around 15mm with rider sag at around 35-40mm. Rear static sag should be around the same with rider sag 5 mm less than the front numbers. If you set the correct static sag but have too little with you on it, the spring is too stiff, and if there is more than the specified sag with you on it, the spring is too soft.

Since I won't be racing against any of you on a track anytime soon with my top secret and newly found suspension and geometry setups, I will be glad to share my info and setups with others. If any of you out there with Megamotos, have had your suspensions revalved or resprung, it would be nice to hear about what you've done and your feedback.
cheers

I'd also be interested in hearing how to do such a set up, none of the bikes in my past had tunable suspension, so this is a whole new deal for me. I don't even know what sag is or how to best measure it, so when you do your super tech discovery please make it for dummies (like me!)