Check here http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/cgi-bin/public.cgi for footpegs. They have "high", "mid" and "low" sets that may work for you, . I really love my Seat Concepts seat, allthough the "gripper" top is really grippy! I got the "add 1 inch" height as I too am 6' 3" and it's good addition.
Thanks for the tip. They don't seem to list a low peg for the DRZ, though they do for the RMZ. I wonder if they are interchangeable
OK, I just bought a new (to me) 2011 DRZ400S. I'm putting several new farkles on it and have a question. Putting new handle bars on I am replacing the grips (obviously) and I can not get the throttle side grip off. I have cut, pulled and done almost everything necessary to remove a grip, but it won't budge. Both ends a hard and I can't even get a small blade between the grip and throttle tube on the bar end. Is the throttle side grip permanently fused to the throttle tube from the factory? Do I need to buy a new throttle tube just to replace the grip? Thanks for the help..........................
I ran into the same issue so I just went to town with the wire wheel on a bench grinder being careful to stop removing grip material when I got to the throttle tube. It did scuff up the throttle tube a bit but was not a big deal.
Thanks guys.......I've never had this much trouble with grips. Going to town today so I may just buy a new throttle tube, just in case my grinding gets to enthusiastic
I've had one for a year and a half. Absolutely no complaints. Single track to interstate highway, it's been flawless. Seat Concepts is good, but SDG works for me.
Quick question for the pros ... On a ride a few weeks back, the stock speedo/odo unit went partially n/s. All lights and indicators work, but the speedo reads 0, and the odo count stays fixed. I checked - cable and hub unit all seem ok - but I'm thinking cable itself must be damaged? There was no hits or falls on it ... other than that? Thanks, CM
Try repacking the speedo hub assembly with new grease. This summer I took my front wheel off at a buddy's and when I reinstalled it I used the grease he had laying around. His grease wasn't waterproof and for whatever reason the speedo assembly just quit reading mph and all that after a week or two. Eventually I took the wheel off again and it got repacked with BelRay waterproof grease and worked again just like it always had.
Just finished to fix my new decal kit from Uni Racing, the bike looks new!! I'm also very pleased with the None exhaust.
Would soot build up around the exhaust valves be a sign of the valves starting to excessively wear? I adjusted the valves 15K + miles ago. I set the exhaust valves as close to 30 as possible but they are now reading 25 and 23...the bikes got around 30k miles I'll adjust the valves now and check them after a few rides, Just wondering if the soot build up is common? Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Once the valves start tightening up on the OEM valves I would change them to Stainless Wiseco One Piece Valves. The Wisecos hold the settings very well and have been documented to hold adjustments for over 20k miles with no shimming required.
only when you are running too rich and riding too slow. needs an Italian tuneup every week to keep them clean. try freeway on ramps at full bore.
One of the local inmates entered his DRZ into the Denver Endurocross this weekend. While Taddy cleaned up on his Christini 2WD KTM, I can't help but wonder how much better he might have done on a DRZ. We'll probably never find out.
I dont think the soot has anything to do with too much slow riding. I put on 12k in the month of July when i rode the TAT and have been riding hard since. Speedo gear stripped on me at the end of July but i have been ridding hard since I'm probably running rich, as i've been struggling to get the right jetting since i did the 3x3mod... Anyway, the hole reason I opened her up was to figure out why i've been hearing more engine noise. After watching some Youtube videos I thought I had a loose counter balance nut, but i've already checked that and it's still tight. Next of possibilitys was a stretched cam chain, I am still using the stock 2000 tensioner. After inspecting the cam chain it seemed tight and judging by the soot or whatever crap is all over everything the tensioner wasn't even fully extended. I've also been getting a bunch of crap in the oil filter. Metal shavings, something red and some black stuff. for scale Any ideas whats going on with my DRZ? how do i check the cam chain guides for excessive wear? My plan as of now is to replace the cam chain and the tensioner with a updated ACCT
You might want to use a magnet to help identify the metal bits. Steel or aluminum? Can you describe the noise it's been making? Does it make the noise in neutral while revving it up? Is the clutch operating up to par?
