FactoryPro Jet Kit...cure for what ails your carbs!

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Just learnin'...

Yes of course!

But at least it put the door open for some clever replies.

You call that rude K2m? Man, try again... Fact remains that there's no fixed relation between revs & needle position with CV carbs as your earlier post suggested. There's no need to spell it out to me but in 'general interest' I think it is. But I understand your urge to get even...

BTW as a general remark with all this expert carb tuning going on; keep in mind that it's absolutely necessary to shut off (or remove) the SAS system as this f.cks up all AFR readings.

Keep it comin k2m.. If at some point you could give a baseline like "no sas, aftermarket ex, airbox mod = 42 idle, fp needle in #2 and 165,160 it would be a great starting point for others.
Then we could get a real comparison because so far the fp has been apples to oranges since nobody has done the extra work to fine tune.

I would agree that the FP kit is apples to oranges to the stock jets. However, this brings up the question why the boys from Factory Pro don’t sort this out for the customers, with a good setting recommendation, to get the promised results for $100. It appears everybody is buying the kit, install it, to then start the long learning process with differing results and no clear best setting. Since I tossed the kit and setup the bike on a dyno for best result with stock components I found the performance to be flat out incredible throughout the rev-band. I can’t wait for somebody to proof me wrong in regards to the FP needles being the best for the bike. Additionally, if you go through all the posts on this issue you’ll find the setting which works best for quite a few people.

Excluding elevation differences, it seems we could arrive at 3 "ideal" jetting configurations.
1. Stock bike
2. Aftermarket silencers with inserts
3. Aftermarket silencers w/o inserts

Of course, gearing changes the "ideal" as well as the airbox mod.

It seems what works best for most is:

1. Aftermarket silencer
2. 16t front
3. Jetting 42 pilot, 160 / 165 main 3rd position stock needle which runs between 12 to 14 A/F on a dyno and great on the road, very smooth as well fromm 3000 RPM to 9500RPM
4. Air box mod (Sommer Door)

Having completed another test last night I can now say that the pilot jets #38 #40 can now be removed from the test.

This is unfortunate as the opportunity to lean cruse, therefore add 50 > 100km to the tank is lost. We would need fuel Injection for that. I will inject this bike later when Injectors become available for a good price. I am looking at a pair of Ducati injectors later this week. Twin injectors per body. It all depends on measurements.

The pilots are to important to the overall fuel curve. It looks like the #45s are the go with a turn out of between .3 and 1.5

Needle position will be #4 or #5(which is a half step)

Mains 155 & 160 ( 158 & 163 would work very nice)

All crap removed from my bike in the first week. Most on the first night.

Run in as per "THE MAD" Motaman Seal those Rings

My float height is set at 2.1mm. Carbs left together. Right side measurement.

Exhaust as discussed in earlier posts.

I run a Mioni stile oil foam pre-filter, and test with and without this filter. The normal filter should be good for 50,000km. The difference to the A/FR is negligible.

Carb venting is done inside the airbox.

Fuel Air screws at ???

A little comparaison...... the clip on the FP is on #5. Then slid into #3 of the stock........

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Interesting Eh........

This is the first page of 70 on carburetion

Having given up on economy as a goal I shall concentrate on drivability and power.

That mid-range hit mentioned in an earlier post must be were the maximum volumetric efficiency VE and the correct AFR meet.... ie Maximum Torque.

To be continued...

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For those who wish to know my final settings.... With out the explanations

Pilot #38
Needle FP #5 clip

1 turn out ( I like a mean lean clean idle. !.5 to 1.75 will also work) AFR= 13.5

Mains......160, 165 AFR= 11.8- 12.2 @ WOT. Not ideal but necessary to avoid slight lean area in 5000 - 7000 rpm

Float 2.1mm

Bike is very smooth to drive in traffic (by LC8 standards)

any Improvements will come much slower now

To be continued.....

Did you try the 155/160 #4 (or#5) 45 combo?
Seemed like you got better AFR's all around before with that and a #42 .5 out pilot?

Though I was always under the impression that full throttle AFR was about ideal at 12.2:1?

I'd love to hear the long version even if nobody else does!

Thanks in advance!

I did ... #45 is a total flood..... on #4 clip.......... really bad, and still to lean @ 5000-6000rpm with 155 & 160

I will explain later no time today This new combo is spot on close.

2nd day.... My ride to work is a 4pm 20km traffic trip cutting across Sydney not really with or against traffic. Today I spent a lot of time lite throttle 3000-4000 rpm. No hunting, no surging, just perfect throttle control.

The #38 pilot @ 1 turn ..... the only way to go better would be to set the Co. as per what KTMax said.

By raising the needle you rich-en the 1/8 throttle range. That's why I use the #38
Any bigger will flood it.

The #38 will only work well with the #5 clip position on the needle.

#38's are only available through Factory Pro. They use them in R6's I think!... Yam Something.....no Kawa.... buggered if I know.

You need to use the #5th to maintain near perfect AFR's right through the rev range approaching WOT.

To be continued.......

K2m,

Does it still have the mid-range to "snap" the chain and get the front light on the top at WOT?

Would there be any advantage to trying a smaller pilot?

Thanks for that.... someone else is using clip #4 and commenting on this power hit in the mid range. The first time I experienced it I was in peak hour traffic and had to change my undies......

Having completed another test last night I can now say that the pilot jets #38 #40 can now be removed from the test.

This is unfortunate as the opportunity to lean cruse, therefore add 50 > 100km to the tank is lost. We would need fuel Injection for that. I will inject this bike later when Injectors become available for a good price. I am looking at a pair of Ducati injectors later this week. Twin injectors per body. It all depends on measurements.

The pilots are to important to the overall fuel curve. It looks like the #45s are the go with a turn out of between .3 and 1.5...............

For those who wish to know my final settings.... With out the explanations

Pilot #38
Needle FP #5 clip

1 turn out ( I like a mean lean clean idle. !.5 to 1.75 will also work) AFR= 13.5

Mains......160, 165 AFR= 11.8- 12.2 @ WOT. Not ideal but necessary to avoid slight lean area in 5000 - 7000 rpm

Float 2.1mm

Bike is very smooth to drive in traffic (by LC8 standards)

any Improvements will come much slower now



Needle position will be #4 or #5(which is a half step)

Mains 155 & 160 ( 158 & 163 would work very nice)


This is unfortunate as the opportunity to lean cruse, therefore add 50 > 100km to the tank is lost. We would need fuel Injection for that. I will inject this bike later when Injectors become available for a good price. I am looking at a pair of Ducati injectors later this week. Twin injectors per body. It all depends on measurements.......................

I will explain later no time today This new combo is spot on close..............

I did ... #45 is a total flood..... on #4 clip.......... really bad, and still to lean @ 5000-6000rpm with 155 & 160

I will explain later no time today This new combo is spot on close.

2nd day.... My ride to work is a 4pm 20km traffic trip cutting across Sydney not really with or against traffic. Today I spent a lot of time lite throttle 3000-4000 rpm. No hunting, no surging, just perfect throttle control.

The #38 pilot @ 1 turn ..... the only way to go better would be to set the Co. as per what KTMax said.

By raising the needle you rich-en the 1/8 throttle range. That's why I use the #38
Any bigger will flood it.

The #38 will only work well with the #5 clip position on the needle.

#38's are only available through Factory Pro. They use them in R6's I think!... Yam Something.....no Kawa.... buggered if I know.

You need to use the #5th to maintain near perfect AFR's right through the rev range approaching WOT.

To be continued.......
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K2m can you please clairify what works best. Above are clips from your posts. First you said #45 in 4th position made you crap your pants, then later you said it was a flood. After you talked about #38 pilots you said the were no longer to be considered, then you list them as your final setting. Fark, I'm confussed to say the least, can you please clairify for me, I must be a little thick today.
I'm waiting as I type to change my jetting as I just did a valve adjustment today, and I have to lean the mains a little so I thought of trying the #45 pilot and 4th clip on FP needle. Just clarify your position on this for me again please then I can make a decision with your help. Thanks in advance.<!-- / message --><!-- / message -->

Katoum, I think this is what you are refering to:

"I have dropped down one level on the mains to 155-160 and raised the FP needle to #4 with brilliant A/F ratio results I will leave these as they are. #4 on the FP is the equivalent of #3.5 on the Stock (I went to raise my needles from #2 to #3clip and discovered that they were on #3 already sorry WSMC99)

But still have issues with the pilot jet currently #42@ .5 turn out. I have a good collection of pilots #38 #40 #42 #45......

With these settings the hit in the mid range feels like it wants to brake the chain, and at WOT the front feels very lite the A/F is 12-13 all the way with 14-15 cruse. I run the 17T front sprocket and have run the 16T."

I changed my settings last night before reading this post. I changed the mains to 165F 168 R and moved the FP needle to #4 position. The pilot may still be to rich because last time I tried a #45 I was at .5 turn out also to get the idle lean enough. My concern with running smaller sizes less than #42 is they are proun to plugging easily, as I had problems of this nature on my old Suzuki 400. Oh well there is still a little life left in the wood screws so I will continue to try more settings.

Yep ... the snap is still there, also that lite feel to the front wheel approaching red line.

The smallest pilot factory make in the 78 series jets is #38 I was thinking of contacting Marc Salvisberg to see if he could supply #36 & #34. At the same time order a #158 & #162 mains. That will give me some more options in the future. Marc's a great guy.... very helpful. When I get some feedback from other LC8 owners on this set up I will discus these jetting changes with him.

Sorry for the confusion KATOUM, you must read the posts as a work in progress. The only settings that matter are the last ones. Earlier posts are a record of how I got there. When you change one thing it has an affect everywhere. Just when you have it sussed..... it does the opposite.