New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

1, Yes.
2, Happens at different air pressures (22, 28, 32)
3, Suspension is about to be sent out for revalving, reshimming, respringing for my MASS and my camping load.

Worries me also...

Squeezing the tank will get rid of it as well as tensing up on the handgrips.

Sorry I am a suspension moron and have no clue on how to do this... Move the forks up in the triple clamps???

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=517497

Yeah....when I get a high speed wobble I do that....my arsehole also tightens up significantly and grips my seat a lot tighter.....

Here ya go...

Isnt the wobble just the joy of having knobby tires?
My GS wobbled too with knobbies on pavement.
The steering damper helped.
You can ride my bike and see if the damper helps you and if you want to invest in one.

Re wobble at 70: Check the alignment of your front and back tires and check that the distance from swingarm pivot to axle center is the same on both sides. I did up to 80 on pavement using Michelin Desert tires which have aggressive knobs not good for the street and no wobble. Stock(steeper) steering head angle.

Technical responce from my ktm mechanic about the speed wobble was "yeah they do that" - full fuel with extra luggage plus a damper turned up gets rid of it remember to turn damper down in dirt tho found that out the hard way

I see what they did there. Thanks.

Today is National Donut Day
Most shops are giving out a free donut, some (Dunkin') with purchase of a drink.

Thanks, appreciate it

This came in the mail from ca cycleworks. I had one sitting on the shelf forever and after a few stalls, a bunch of black junk in the filter and 6k miles it was time to go in. I could not figure out how to attach the 32$ 1 foot length of submersible hose to the pump outlet so i called the company and the nice lady sent a new style replacement with the barbed fitting, but no sock filter so i guess the stock screen fits. Seems like it all should stay together,crossing my fingers

Just curious how prevalent the fuel pump failures are these days. My original failed at around 12K miles about 2 years ago, the current one has 13K on it now. Not sure if it was a different model then the original, but the housing was a different color. As mentioned before the brush wiring breaking from vibration was the reason for the failure, so I wonder if the later pumps addressed the brittle wire issue.

No, you can get that wobble on street bikes as well.

Can't argue with that...

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Mine wobbled just like yours at 70. Then...

Lowered the rear end by adjusting the spring. Took almost all the tension out of it with the bike on a lift. (no, it never bottoms out)

Can go 100mph+ now and I do not drop it as much with the seat a bit lower.

Running TKC80 and do not balance them, no rim locks.

You are stretching the rake.

i dont know but my 08 has shed so much black junk that it cant be good, so rather change it leisurely in the garage rather than desperately in bfn

My seat pan got a smackdown right where they put that extra support. The rubber stopper was pushed up into the cusion, and the fiberglass was disintegrated... Although I will admit there were extenuating circumstances that were caused by operator error.

My 2012 will do the same thing under certain wind conditions. A crosswind affects my up-wind shoulder and about 70mpg the front is subject to a wobble. It comes from my shoulder, but clearly indicates the front is pretty sensitive at higher speeds. However, it either disappeared or I've not had the same wind conditions...

I think it was reduced after my suspension broke in. After about 500 miles my rear rides a lot lower then it did at first. That extends the trail dimension on the front end, thereby slowing the steering and reducing the chance of high speed wobble.

If you want to extend the trail dimension, you either raise the front or lower the rear. The poster above took out a lot of rear spring pre-load, thereby lowering his rear ride height. That does the same thing for trail.

Look at the top of your forks. If their is room to slide the forks so the caps are flush with your T clamp, you can slide them down so they are. That will produce a higher ride height in front and increase your trail and it doesn't take much.

After doing all that you will be looking for more spring in front to hold the bike higher. You suggested you were heavy, so maybe do that anyway.

My old 950 was sensitive like that too. I attempted to lower the saddle through lowering the front by sliding the fork tubes up in the T clamps...Wrong!!! Big scary wobble above 90mph. I quickly put it back. :eek1

I installed a Scotts damper the other day on my 690, but have it on full off right now because I want to test the bike at different damper settings before I use damping. I haven't had time.

Google up Rake and Trail. The results will reveal what rake and trail is and how they impact the steering of a motorcycle.

I'm no expert either but I've fielded supersport race bikes for many seasons, and learned a little about it during test sessions in watching the tuners and riders trying to get the motorcycle to handle like the rider wants. Pretty fascinating. Of course, those bikes are fully adjustable in that way.