Husaberg 70 Degree Owners Thread!

I just put my Rekluse Core EXP for sale on the flea market. Almost brand new with just 5 hrs on it. It came of a 2011 FE570.

Get the Shorai. I put one in my 450 when the OEM got weak and the handling difference getting rid of the up high weight is quite apparent.

On a side note, while my 450 would start fine (cranked a little slow) at times it would momentarily die and run "digitally funny" at the end. Thought it was the fuel pump again, but went with the battery first as it was getting old anyway, and problem solved, been probably 25 hours on the Shorai, have not missed a beat. These FI bikes need a good battery.

Wow, that is a really cheap pump, and likely the same pump as the CA cycleworks or KTM OEM, all from China. Who knows. Their ebay pictures show a black-top and brown-top pump. The brown-top is supposedly the newer, but maybe they are blowing out the old black-top pumps which had a lot of failures. Again, hard to know until you get one.

Black top (failed) __________________ Replacement Brown top

Which one?
Someone posted pics a while back installing LFX14A2-BS12 which has "A" type polarity and Shorai website calls for a LFX14L2-BS12 which has "L" type polarity?

SHORAI LFX Lithium-Iron Powersports battery, 14Ah PbEq 12V eq, "A" polarity, Case Type 2
Length 4.45"
Width 2.28"
Height 3.50"<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o></o>
<o></o>
<o></o>
SHORAI LFX Lithium-Iron Powersports battery, 14Ah PbEq 12V eq, "L" polarity, Case Type 2
Length 4.45"
Width 2.28"
Height 3.50"<o></o>

A couple pages back I posted my Shorai install in detail. I assure you that model (Shorai LFX14L2-BS12) works just perfect in the FE series since it has the same polarity arrangement as the OEM unit. Maybe Shorai has an even newer model? I put mine in early 2012.

See here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=759310

I found the confusion, if you look at the open box pic, and the size comparison pic the battery has two different numbers. Looks like then "L" battery is the one to have.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Hey guys,

I think I've got a serious problem.....

I took my bike apart recently to fix what I believe is a partially clogged injector (the engine would sputter in the top RPMs if you give it full gas ), replace the battery, and finally clean off all the sand that got everywhere from running the Tuareg Rally earlier this year.

Everything was going smoothly until I put everything back together and tried to fire up the bike: the starter relay just clicked and the bike didn't manage to turn the engine over, which was strange as the new battery was fully charged. Then all of a sudden I saw smoke coming from the headstock area, and I think a little bit from under the battery box. I immediately disconnected the battery so it didn't last more than a couple of seconds, but the damage was done:



I have now traced the melted ground wire up front that is part of the main harness, and apparently the other end goes to the left side handlebar switch? I also found out that the ground bolt was fairly loose, which might explain why it didn't turn over properly. I couldn't find any chafed or melted wires under the battery box, but almost everything there is wrapped or covered so it's hard to see. Quite possible that even more wire burned up in the main harness, it was very warm to the touch right after this happened...


Really frustrated right now, and I would very much appreciate some pointers on how to go about finding the cause of the meltdown and then how to fix this mess.

Cheers,
Lukas

Sorry to hear about this major issue.
Not much choice here as I suspect you already know. Buy a new wiring harness is what I recommend.
You can remove the stocker and replace all the wires but that would be a major pain. Hope none of the fuel injectors or fuel pump got hit either.

I'm assuming this is where you post things about your own bike for discussion ?!

Well here goes anyway, my usual trail blaster/weekend warrior - 2009 - 450 berg ... its all love and hate with this bike... one day it'll all be love. .. one day

Got it second hand in 2011 with an akro slip on, low km's, some suspension work done ( unknown ) .. and an incorrectly installed impeller shaft seal >.<

First ride it boiled over, got the thermofan and liquid intelligence "coolant", fixed impeller seal and added force radiator gaurds/barkbuster handgaurds.

Then the mods/bolts on's flowed from there and it now sits with ...

Barkbuster handgaurds
BRP handgaurd mounts on BRP vibration dampening submount
Scotts steering dampner
Renthal enduro high bend bars. ( still a bit low might have to raise with risers ) with bar end mirrors mounted under bars between top clamps and brake levers
Balanced wheels, pirelli xcmh front and rear, awaiting nuetech tubliss for both
Moose species headlight, upgaded to dual 35W HID, retrofitted into berg front fender and headlight mask.
DRC turn signals - flush mount rear triangular front.
Rekluse core exp 2
Left hand rear brake, with MC off quad that has park mech built in to stop bike rolling also using foot brake by using rekluse brake cylinder sleeve.
Drilled radiator shrouds for more airflow with funnel web filter air filter (nice power gain across range)
Extra cushioning added to seat and new seat gripper seat cover - couch like
Fastway pegs in low boy postion
Kush sprocket ( noticeable difference on road )
G2 ergonomics throttle tamer
Stegpegz
Weep hole mod
Powersport lithium battery
DIY rotary dial MAP switch MOD
BRP chain guide

All thats needed now is to get the suspension serviced/set up for my weight, raise the bars to open the riding position up ( too far forward ),add charger lead for battery, do all the "berg mods" , install security and GPS, add more protection to bike - bash plate, exhaust wrap or ceramic coating etc, fit super moto wheels and the last but not least graphics.

No decent pics atm, if requested pics of certain mods could be taken.

Lukas, for your melted wire situation

Do you have a megger( insulation resitance tester ) ?!

The easiest way to test and fault find electrical problems is to divide the circuit into components and wiring sections, e.g pumps, switch blocks, single cables and looms. From there you can test/inspect each component to see if there is a fault, e.g dead short in a motor, down to ground faults from active circuits.

You can do this with a normal multimeter with resistance function, but depending on brand and type will only pick up a certain value( generally will only pick up dead shorts )

However an insulution resistane tester will pump out up to 1000v DC with minimal current and if say a cable is chaffed and near a frame say .5mm, the spark can jump and will indicate a fault. CAUTION has to be taken with components, as certain components can't handle the high voltage- electronics, certain electrical motors etc.

From this you could test all the suspected components by using manufacturers methods to see if they are within spec and eliminate where the fault started from.

I dare say as its limited to a certain section of the circuit and that there was a ground cable loose, that the high resistance pathway of the loose ground caused an overload of the section causing it to melt ( increased resistance = increased current ).

Depending on the connection type you could replace that certain section of cable. If this is a race/ compeition bike( from memory it is ) it might be best to replace the whole loom regarding to this part of the circuit, test each component thoroughly, add extra protection to the cabling ( to stop cables rubbing against frame etc ) and to use methods to prevent water/ dirt ingress to connectors etc and check that upgrades and mods that you have done arent overloading or affecting circuits in any way ( heat - friction - electrical load )

Hi Lukas, yes that's a bit of a mess for sure and you are right to worry about the rest of the wiring harness. A new harness is really the only good answer and probably less work overall than trying to rebuild what you have.

As you know the wires are tightly packed on this bike, especially the area under the battery box to the main frame going up front. Lots of places for chafing and crushing wires. A loose main ground would also cause lots of problems and maybe even rerouting of the current to the smaller ground wires, overheating them. Wires can often get crushed up at the steering head where forks can grind them against the frame if they are too close. It's hard to see because they are in an outer sheath. Your sensors should be OK as long as the connectors and wires to them look OK

Racing at high revs puts a lot more vibes on the harness and any area where it could chafe/rub/scarpe, will chafe/rub/scrape and of course bolts get loose like the main ground. I went through my FE and put thin polyurethane self-stick film under every spot the wires rubbed mounts, frame, engine etc. and tie-wrapped them in place to reduce movement.

I used to rebuild and rewire small commercial aircraft many years ago and there you have to be hyper-vigilant about anything that can rub on anything else and cut, short, burn.

Not much fun, but strip it down and lay in a new wiring set (groan).

I think I would attempt to fix each wire and trace back each one to follow damage. Its worth trying. Good luck to you and sorry about your luck.

Post back if it was a faulty ground and where it was located maybe you can prevent others the same issue.

What is the best deal you have found on a new Front Safari tank for the FE570?
I'd love to not spend 700 on one. If anyone has one sitting around I'd be interested.

I have a rear I would let go for $450

My berg is one of the early 09 models that had the 19mm offset rather than the 22mm of the later bikes, i bought a set of factory triples from LukasM which can be either and after about a year i've just tried moving to the 22mm to see what its like ...... wow i can see why you guys have steering dampers, a lot sharper steering, holds a line a lot better but more twitchy and less stable, not sure how i feel about it at the moment but will give it a few more rides before i decide to leave there or go back, not that its difficult to change. Just thought i'd let you know :)

I'm with Cyborg,...It will be a lot easier to replace the whole wiring harness then to test every single circuit. With the main ground being loose that's a 90% probability the cause of it all. By going with a new harness it will be a lot of time saved and more assurance that you're starting fresh as it very improbable any components that the harness plug into caused the issue at hand.

Thanks for the offer, but I really jut want the front safari. The rear limits hmm luggage options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Shooter - That's a long list of some v. nice mods. My '10 FX450 has some of the same ones. Getting to suspension dialed in is a top priority.

If you aren't a expert w/ setting up the Berg suspension, get help from someone that is. They respond to adjustments a little differently.

My bike has the ceramic coated exhaust (all parts from head to can, inside and out), a free flowing can, Engine Ice coolant, NO thermostat and NO fan. I have NO overheating or boiling gas issues. Virginia is quite warm and humid in the summer.

Rox brand risers are nice, providing maximum adjustability. Because of their design, they are 2" long/high, so if you only need to go up a little they may not be for you.

Thanks for all the detailed feedback and instructions guys, I appreciate it!

The main harness is about $650 here, so buying a new one is really a last resort if I have exhausted all my options, and it would have to wait until I return from my RTW trip which starts in January.

Obviously I'm being optimistic, but what are my chances of the damage being limited to the one wire up front? I didn't get a chance to look at it in detail since this happened at 1am last night, but it appears that the one melted brown wire leads to a bundle of them being terminated near the headstock, and then they all go to the back together. If they are merged into one thicker gauge wire, maybe the thinner gauge one at the front acted as a fuse before causing any more damage?

If I could just find out for sure that the loose ground was the cause of the problem, that would be a great start...

I once burned out a loom . That was only because of a lose earth. . At $650 I'd rewire. Remove the loom from the bike replace 1 wire at a time . Maybe make 1 of the wires with a temp link with a fuse ( to be on the safe side ) to test to see if it was just a loose earth