I'm still waiting on another Keihin jet that I think might fit as a secondary main. However, along the way I found this source for primary carb jets: http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Teikei_Carburetors_and_Parts_C784.cfm. Not sure whether this is the long or short pilot jet. As previusly mentioned, these folks are sure nice on the phone -- I ordered that Keihin jet from them.
There is a slight difference between the pre 92/post 92 rear brake pads. The location of the spring attachment point is further apart on the post 92. I was able to purchase the later model springs from Babbits for just a few bucks. I have not installed the springs/pads yet, but they look like all will work. <o> </o> On another note: I purchased two oil filters for my 1986 XT350 on ebay and they ended up being the wrong ones. The seller refunded my money, but did not want the filters back. Here is the ebay link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260257545844&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123 <o> </o> If they will fit your bike let me know and I will mail them to you. <o> </o> BTW they are Wix 24936 filters.
I got a few pictures of my bike so I figured I'd share. Got rid of this tired old trailwing for a mt21, much better off and on road Just shoing off how I mounted the cans, the springs really quieted every thing up. FYI They are seat springs off of a walker mower but I'm sure any old springs would work. The Acerbis headlight, makes the bike look younger but man is it lame... Not recomended for night riding. I am currently looking for some sort of upgrade. And for the best part... My custom, budget, "dash" It's a bad angle, the zune dosen't block the tach or speedo. The rest are here http://s323.photobucket.com/albums/nn479/StuckXJ/ Lets get some more xt350 pics up here! -Steve
You need to get a little pin on compass like this. http://www.summitcampinggear.com/coforkipopil.html The batteries never run out.
Extra fuel? One of the many great things about the XT, that small 16oz of fuel could get him another 50 miles
Okay, I give up trying to find main jets for the secondary carb. So I rolled my own. Assuming this photo uploads: the one on the left has the right outside dimensions (8mm, 1mm pitch) but way-wrong bore. Second one has 5x0.8 thread, and I seem to have a million of these lying around. Drilled/tapped to put them together (3rd jet, after running through the 8x1 die). The 4th jet is what it's supposed to look like. Yeah kinda crude, but I just used hand tools. And it works, dammit.
God only knows, but maybe out of an early '70s Honda Four (had a couple of those). I started with about 12 of those first jets (probably three sets of four), and a gazillion of the 5mm threaded ones (all different sizes). I suspect these "#2" jets were used in about everything. I wrecked a few before figuring out how to use a die holder as a vice: put in a little piece of metal to keep the jet from screwing through the die whist drilling on it. (Hope that's clear enough to picture.) Gonna try to screw it all back out tonight to swap the 5mm jet out. It went in clean enough, so I don't think it'll be a wreck. That motorcycle carbs link has about everything except these secondary main jets. (That's just about everything I really need right now.)
Hi all, I was very happy to see an XT thread going. Great bike, obvious limitations here and there but tons of fun and great for lots of things. I will have some carb questions coming soon but for now I was wondering if someone could enlighten on checking the valve clearances. I was told by a local mechanic that they are set from the factory and they don't need to be adjusted. Is there truth to this? If not any insight on how to check the valve adjustments would be great. Thanks!
Alright! I'm tired of my forks crappin out on me! How can I keep them from blowing a seal so often? I swear I have only riden the thing 4 times since the last time I replaced them and they are leaking again Maybe I should get a DRZ? I remember someone talking about a fork swap? While I'm at it I would also like a little more power so maybe I will re-jet it and find a slip one muffler.
The valves don't move much, but they should be checked once in a while. I don't remember what the manual says, but I know it's in the schedule. p.s. Don't take it to that mechanic.
Burtondr---have you tried going up to 15wt and adding about an inch longer spacer than stock? I did this, it helped some, no leaks yet. You should be able to bottom out pretty hard repeatedly with out self-destructing the forks. I'd like track down some info on either swapping tt350 tubes and rebuild or better yet, is it possible to do tripple trees and forks off of a tt500/xt500 or ???? If so the same info for the back would be in order (most likely have to swap swing arms) AND you would most likely want to beef up the frame. All in all it is what it is, if you're out riding the XT perhaps it's time to upgrade the whole bike..... Skidmarx---thanks for the reply. I figured as much. I only have 1600 miles on the bike but they've been rough, ass-hauling miles. Not too easy on the ole XT. I parked it for a number of months and began riding a yamaha powered street bike thumper. When I came back to the XT it seemed like the engine was kinda "pingy" sounding in the top end so that's why I was wondering about valve clearances. Perhaps it's always been like this and I was just forgot. Does this pingy sound familiar to anyone? Any more info on checking the valves on an XT350?
I just finished cleaning my XTs carburetor because it was running rough and the idle was set really high by the previous owner. The bike runs great now, in fact better then ever. But I still cant get it to idle down and it misses every 5-8 seconds until it has warmed up for 15 minutes or so. Right now it is idling around 2,000 rpm. Mid and high rpm seems perfect. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o> </o> Any advice on getting it to idle better?
Turn the Pilot screw out a bit. 1 to 1 1/2 turns should do it. You will likely have to drill out the brass cap that covers it. It is on the front side of the bowl. It will also start much better. make changes of 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time. It's a good idea to screw it all the way in while counting turns so you have a baseline to return to if you get confused or loose count. p.s. Black text is hard to read.
I'm just commuting about these days. So I just ordered up a 50 and 47 tooth sprockets, new unbent bars, maxxis promaxx m6102/m6103 street rubber (they are crazy cheap at bikebandit and the customer reviews rated them as equal to the BT45.) and of course wheel weights and a pair of spoons. Note: The Maxxis site says M6102 comes in 3.00-21 as does motorcycle-superstore, bikebandit has it listed as 90/90-21. The 50t should give me a 9.1% drop in rpm or a 10% gain in speed, however you wish to view it. The 47t should give a 14.5% drop in rpm or a 17% gain. A 44t would give numbers of 20% drop or 25% gain, verses stock 55t Shifting from 1st to 2nd is a 26.5% drop in rpm or a 36% speed gain. I feel that 2nd gear with the stock 19/55t is borderline for taking off,(as I don't want to put excess wear on the clutch) so I stayed away from the 44t feeling it would make the new first too close to the old second. Also I like the quite stock muffler more than my supertrapp and pulling 6th with the 44t may need the assistance of the trapp. Actually now that I look at my numbers first gear with 19/44 is nearly identical to 2nd gear with 18/55. (And 18/44=19/47 or dern close) 5th->6th shift is a 14.7% rpm drop or 17.2% speed gain. Tune in in a few weeks for the empirical info.