I guess vans are better than motorhomes... <object width="640" height="360"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/AG1HPTAOrBw&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&version=3"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/AG1HPTAOrBw&hl=en_US&feature=player_embedded&version=3" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="360"></embed></object>
Hook up a timing light (assuming you still have the scale on the fan housing), disconnect the vacuum hose from the distributor, and rev the engine up. You should see the timing advance to somewhere around 30-32 degrees BTDC(should go more left as revs rise). This will tell you if the centrifugal advance is working. Under the rotor is a felt wick that needs a few drops of oil during tune-ups that often gets overlooked, causing the advance plate to stick. With the vacuum hose connected, I've seen timing as high as 40 degrees. The important thing to see is the smooth progression as revs increase.
Trying to help a friend out and i mentioned that this collective knows their van crap. My buddy bought a 2010 E350 that was a passenger converted to work. it has insert where the windows were. He saw a Chevy with a door setup he loved. It is a Chevy option, but he has a Ford. Anyone know of a setup like the one below for a Ford?
This may be your biggest problem. Get some tools, some books and start learning how your bus works. I've had issues on the road that I've been able to fix because I carry a tool kit and a manual. Just a suggestion.
Sounds pretty good. While the tank is out, replace all rubber fuel lines with proper NEW fuel injection hose and clamps. (I used BusDepot stuff, about $50). Horror stories result from a broken line running at 35psi. I didn't mean to come off as a dick with the tools/preparedness line, just to illustrate that when rolling in old VWs, you are your own best mechanic.
When rolling in anything older, you're your own best mechanic. DAMHIK that old British cars break down on the road... M
Very true, but especially so with aircooled, F.I. VWs. If you break down with an old Chevy there's always someone with tools, parts, and know-how to get you rolling again. Not always the case with a Volks. a1fa, Your posts bring back memories... During my VW phase I worked in various Volkswagen dealers, as a mechanic and later a service writer. The injection system on the aircooled Vanagons and late Type Ones was, shall we say, temperamental. Kept the tow companies busy though. I like V-dubs, but mine were all carb'd- the newest bus I owned was a '69. I always wanted to put a set of 44IDF Webers on a Vanagon, but California frowned on that sort of thing back then; even more so now I imagine. I left the car business, and the state of California, far behind years ago. Could be worse- you could have a Waterboxer :huh Cheers, Dave
This 4WD Chevy just popped up for sale a couple of days ago. Its a mile down the street and I had to stop and take pics today. The for sale sign says its an '88 with FI for $6800. Obviously its been resprayed and the itnerior is not ideal. The PO installed two rows of bus seats in back which are only suitable for children. Cool rig, as these seem to be custom made. Check out the 110 and 220 ac plugs. If anybody wants, I'll be happy to PM the sellers phone number. I don't know him, but he has had some cool stuff for sale in his front yard.
I can't tell you how hard that shit is to get back IN to the vehicle once its out. Did it to the Ford 8N tractor just last week. The magic smoke wanted out so badly it took the top of the coil off as it escaped! :eek1 M
The Mother Lode of van Magazine covers: http://public.fotki.com/Lordmodelbuilder/vanning/van_magazine_covers/sept75.html#media
